In 1997 I surfed Full Point on a big NORTH swell got cleaned up with 2 other surfers SB lifeguards! I ended up climbing on the rocks @ blow hole! And kissed the sand! That day was 12' to 15' feet thats from the back!!! They closed the beach shortly after! The next year 1998 same thing happen to me but i drown and ended up in the hostpital for 2 weeks!
But this day was very very big!! no way u could even paddle out! no way!!!!!!!
This day was huge very big 15 to 20 plus i took shots of this day on the cliff area using 35mm film........
than i got a flight to SF a caught it huge same swell!! Unreal
In 1997 I surfed Full Point on a big NORTH swell got cleaned up with 2 other surfers SB lifeguards! I ended up climbing on the rocks @ blow hole! And kissed the sand! That day was 12' to 15' feet thats from the back!!! They closed the beach shortly after! The next year 1998 same thing happen to me but i drown and ended up in the hostpital for 2 weeks!
But this day was very very big!! no way u could even paddle out! no way!!!!!!!
This day was huge very big 15 to 20 plus i took shots of this day on the cliff area using 35mm film........
than i got a flight to SF a caught it huge same swell!! Unreal