deck pad

nwdude · Post by **nwdude** » Thu Jul 22, 2004 5:17 pm

AAAARGHH!!! - having problems with obtaining deck pad for new board - many of you responded with suggestions on beveling the edge of deck pad material- none of them were the magic bullet - now i'm on the hunt for a pad that's already beveled/moulded so that all i have to do is glue it on ( i can do that part, i'm sure ) - rich pavel at greenroom can get this done, but will not return my calls - he outsources this job somewhere, i know not where - rich is a great idea man - protege of steve lis and all, but hard to get ahold of - does anyone out there know of a place i can do biz with who will send me a premoulded/beveled kneepad for a kb ? - i've got a new board i'm dying to try out ( 5'10" quad fish - rich pavel computer shaped ), but want to have a proper long lasting kneepad on first - where i live ( pacific nw ) one wants to be ready for juice that's usually shows up in late aug/early sept - GETTING DESPERATE ! - thanks

Beeline2.0 · Post by **Beeline2.0** » Thu Jul 22, 2004 6:06 pm

Post by **joe** » Thu Jul 22, 2004 7:35 pm

Many people here prefer the Parkes pads. Our web master Don sells them. Send Don a private message -PM- and ask for details.
privmsg.php?mode=post&u=2

The Parkes pads are also peel and stick.
This topic has been discussed at length before. Lots of good info in the old posts.
viewtopic.php?t=179&highlight=pads
viewtopic.php?t=508&highlight=pads
viewtopic.php?t=109&highlight=pads

Rod · Post by **Rod** » Fri Jul 23, 2004 7:53 pm

Just an add-on note from Beeline. I've put on a few Romanosky pads. Ron said that the deck needed to be totally wax-free. If yours is a new board-no problem. He also said that the edge on his pads do need to be beveled otherwise they may pull up when you're getting up on your knees. After I put the pad on the board I taped off the area around the pad so when I beveled the pad the board wouldn't get sanded too. I used about an 80 grit paper on the grinder or sander and went around the deck pad in a clockwise direction so that I wouldn't pull the pad up. It probably took about 10-15 minutes to foil the edge. Take your time and you should have no problem. It's a good pad that doesn't need wax.
good luck with it

Beeline2.0 · Post by **Beeline2.0** » Fri Jul 23, 2004 8:12 pm

splashy · Post by **splashy** » Wed Sep 01, 2004 4:50 pm

I've been using the Parkes full deck since they first came out way back when. They've just been getting better and better. My new board has just arrived

and I've included a full deck with it. Then I just wax in between as well as up the rails for duck diving. The grip is superb and, while sometimes I still put me knee through the deck (under the pad) when really going high and hard, I don't cut my knees up like I used to. If Don sells 'em, have a good look. They are well worth it.

K-man · Post by **K-man** » Wed Sep 01, 2004 5:33 pm

Tried most everything,not really satisfied till I tried parkes.Pads,rear and forward are separate.You can move them closer to the rail or any position you like.They have bumpy knobs that grip well.Easy on the old knees.Takes a bit to get used to as they're fairly thick which raises the center of gravity.Eventually they break in where the knees are positioned,and the're real positive,no sliding
And if ya get bored you can rub your fingers across the bumps and make neat squeaking noises,talk to the dolphins!

K

fisherrat · Post by **fisherrat** » Wed Sep 01, 2004 6:18 pm

One more vote for parkes pads, they are great

IKAIKA · Post by **IKAIKA** » Wed Sep 01, 2004 6:56 pm

NIUHI GRIPS

Post by **joe** » Wed Sep 01, 2004 8:00 pm

Another vote for the Parkes Pads. Easy to apply and they work great.

Scott · Post by **Scott** » Wed Sep 01, 2004 8:35 pm

Chief,

Do you use the flat knee padz or the contoured knee padz from North Shore, Inc.?

IKAIKA · Post by **IKAIKA** » Wed Sep 01, 2004 9:01 pm

NIUHI GRIPS

MEAT · Post by **MEAT** » Wed Sep 01, 2004 9:20 pm

Hi guys,
The Parkes deck grip are by far the best.As well as working well they look much better on a board than the single piece of grip that seems to be extensivly used over in the U.S.Lets face it for the price that you pay for boards these days and especially the majority of people having some artwork or a variation in colours on a deck of a board,the Parkes grip again looks better than one huge piece of grip.I realise that looks aren't as important as an item that works but, Parksy's grip is efficient in both ways.

Rob · Post by **Rob** » Thu Sep 02, 2004 3:08 am

CHIEF wrote:ALOHA SCOTT,

THE MATERIAL I USE IS A 40" X 60" BRUSHED 1/8" ON 1/4" (DUAL DENSITY) EVA50. I CAN MAKE 5 PADS OUT OF IT.

I JUST CUT IT THE SHAPE I WANT (I HAVE A TEMPLATE) & STICK IT TO THE BOARD WITH 3M SPRAY GLUE.

THIS MATERIAL IS GREAT, SUPER GRIPPY (NO NEED FOR WAX), SUPER LIGHT & IS NON WATER ABSORBENT.

SO FAR... IS THE BEST PAD I EVER TRIED.

GET WET !!

Chief, I don't see NS listing a 40" x 60" pad - do you need ot ask for it? What's the cost?

TIA.

quadfin · Post by **quadfin** » Thu Sep 02, 2004 11:00 am

There are several good Longboard traction pads on the market now they can be adapted to a kneeboard.

I used to make my own pads and would stick with 3M adhesive and would use a thin EVA (shelf liner) for feel to the board. I solved the peelback problem on the edges by laying in a thin UV resistant silicone on the edges and melting in with a hairdryer. Bought all my materials at the local hardware store. Important to coat the board and pad with the 3M.

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