you guys missed it entirely ... guess I'll have to fill you in:
Longer boards are coming to win us
they're coming to win us
they're coming to win us.
Longer boards are coming to win us.
Hold onto the shore ... they'll be taking Big Red thru Backdoor!
Last edited by DarcyM on Tue Feb 08, 2005 7:58 am, edited 1 time in total.
Pic's up of the 6'10 and its brethren in the general pics because I can't access the other folders. Look upon it and weep.
Held it in my hands the first time with it towering over my head and wondered what the hell I was going to do with it. I'm too much of a wus to surf huge waves. Well, if Baden can surf a 7' board at 3' Teahupoo and 4' onshore Wooly maybe I can too. Maybe I'll be ready to catch something over 3' after a few weeks on the north Shore.
It's long and narrow and pointy at both ends but the tail is pointy-er. Bruce has done a fantastic job on both the newies. The 6'5 goes unreal - very loose when it needs to be. Yet to try the 6'10. Have to get board bag before flying out thurs. Time is few.
Rode a kneeboard over 6'3" for the first time Sunday. Had a ball because the 6'5" board surfs short but paddles in easily and goes fast.
Rode the new 6'10 today. After 2 waves was ready to leave it at home rather than bring it to Hawaii. "How's a person meant to get a handle on a thing this big in a couple of surfs and then be expected to risk their life on it in decent size reefs?"
A few more waves and it was "Paddles nice. I think it's going fast, but can't tell"
A few more waves and it was " Goes really nice. I made a wave from waaay too far back. I can even turn it on 5' waves. I think I'm getting the hang of it"
Went and bought a 7'6" triple travel bag and put the 6'10" and the 6'5" straight into it. Now what else will I need?
I've got a 7'4" Frye Swish which I started riding as a kneeboard before I got my first one. In good waves it goes unreal, but it's a bit stiff in the smaller stuff. It all depends on what you've been riding recently. I rode a 5'9" the other day and it felt like a longboard because I had been riding a really light 5'4". But after a few waves on the bigger Skip, I was right back into the groove. What's really funny is the look on people's faces when you're flying down the line at mach 3 on a fifty pound 11'6"... on your knees.
"What's really funny is the look on people's faces when you're flying down the line at mach 3 on a fifty pound 11'6"... on your knees." - Uriah
I believe that is the look of sheer panic as they realize there is no way in hell you can either turn or control that thing and they try to frantically get out of the way of a MAD MAN!
Red,
while in a lot of situations surfing within your limits is the safe and sane thing to do the north shore has always been about surfing beyond your limits to stretch and redefine them. i'm not saying paddle directly out at pipe and kill yourself for glory but don't leave that beautiful 6'10" at home cuz you can't see yourself surfing it. by the end of your stay i'm sure you'll have a whole new perspective on your whole trip. most limits are mental mate. of course some things like how long you can hold your breath do factor in
"This sucks more than anything that has ever sucked before." Butt-head
Yes, for the most part that board's a point and shoot kind of deal, but you'd be surprised how manueverable it is once you get used to it. It's just like driving a boat. The only problem is how spoiled you get from the paddling speed and EARLY wave entry.
There's also a series of pictures of a kneeboarder on a PARKES with yellow rails and bottom at that website, starting at around shot IMG #9697 at Jocko's on 2/8/05. Can't make out who it is, though.
Last edited by DarcyM on Wed Apr 13, 2005 7:32 am, edited 1 time in total.
Peter Crawford and I differed on design but it was horses for courses
he put the fins forward on 22" short wide slabs for comp surfing
but the guy was a lanky lightweight compared to me who did'nt do comps (like Rasta) longer is faster more stable at max boardspeed, slower turning, much better for the big knarly tubes i prefer, useless in small shitty comp surf.
Still riding a Choice Hydrosled 6'2" x 18" four finned beast I picked up in San Dieago in 92... hmmm might be time for a new board. Still it rips and in anything over 5' turns like a deamon, planshape taken from a 9'gun, with lots of nose lift for steep drops and super super soft rails at the nose to square hard rails 10"squaretail handles to20' beautifully
for very deep tight tuberiding who needs to turn?
see gallery pix of my old boards being ridden never under 6'
but I am 6'2" built like a (retired) pro footballer and I use huge flippers
get inside, hang deep have the speed to get on and out!