willli wrote:but why take credit for slashing up a thing of beauty
when you're grateful just to be there
one of the most admired surfers along the 13th beach stretch rides a 7ft pintail and seems like he came straight from the "crystal voyager" video
last time i saw him 1t was a 4 to 6 swell with crumbling sections - we pulled up to the car park which is high above the line up to see a guy without a wettie cruising his way towards shore - he had made it from out back to the shallows without being caught behind any white water
our wifes love his style

we knew it was "f" because hes the only one we know surfing a board that would handle the power of the 1st car park at 13th whilst able to gracefully dance across a difficult day
not cutting edge or boundry pushing but in the groove and in harmony
"f" climbed the stairs, said "gday" took out his watch from the back pocket of his hawaiian board shorts - no bands just a face...he said "not a bad 40 minute session but best off home to the kids"
...poetry!
we observed the carvers left out there getting caught behind the difficult side shore conditions
dorje