Small boards for big waves

What works & what doesn't and in what type of conditions. Got a "secret" only you and your shaper know???? Post it here... we can keep it quiet ;-)

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Do you think short kneeboards perform better than long boards in big waves!

Poll ended at Sun Jul 18, 2004 5:40 pm

Yes
8
28%
No
21
72%
 
Total votes: 29

curlykneelo
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Post by curlykneelo »

I haven't read all replies but a lot of guys mention the size of their boards but not the size of themself . I'm 6'9" and for those days over 12" I've got a Flashpoint 6'10". Iron
dogtown
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short or long?

Post by dogtown »

NO-ONE HAS TOUCHED ON FIN SIZE ,I RIDE A 5'10X24'TRI-FIN WITH TWO RED-X BOXES.I HAVE TWO SETS OF FINS SMALL SET X-3'S AND A LARGER SET X-2'S,I FIND FIN SIZE AND POSITION HAS DRAMATIC EFFECTS ON ONE BOARD.AS FAR AS BOARD LENGTH IS CONCERNED I THINK ITS A MATTER OF TASTE ,DEFINATLEY EASIER TO PADDLE.AS FAR AS LOOSENESS OF LONGER BOARDS/SHORTER BOARDS ,MANY VARIABLES EG;ROCKER,V,RAIL ,.ETC.ANY WAY JUST THOUGHT I WOULD THROW A SPANNER IN THE WORKS.AT THE END OF THE DAY WE ARE ALL IDIVIDUALS WITH DIFFERENT STYLES AND ABILITES.SO RIDE WHAT EVER WORKS FOR YOU///// :wink:
C.P.Odom
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Post by C.P.Odom »

Headwax,

You are correct ot bring up the subject of surface area. And I have touched on the subject in a PM to Hart. The issue was to find a volume that works for a riders "mass" then to maintain it in all of their boards. When length or width is increased to create more surface area, thickness will have to be decreased to maintain the correct volume.

Curtis
toofast
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Post by toofast »

I met another KB`er and I asked him if I could try his board.So we traded for a few waves.his was a 5-10 and mine was 5'. The first wave I caught with his board I I fell off because it wouldn`t turn. I was used to mine.The next couple of waves, I moved back on the tail and the board did do better.But ,it didn`t do what I expected it to do. He said mine was uncontrolable.
I also have a 4'9" that I have ridin in 15' surf and I loved it..
So, my taught on the subject is,ride the board that you know
Beeline2.0
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Post by Beeline2.0 »

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Last edited by Beeline2.0 on Wed Feb 27, 2008 11:51 am, edited 1 time in total.
toofast
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Post by toofast »

Beeline....His board did seem to be faster then mine. The waves were small that day. I do agree with you about in time we would get used to each others boards. His board seemed good for carving where mine is for quick turns.
red
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Post by red »

Toofast

Do you have to take late drops because your short boards don't paddle in ?
toofast
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Post by toofast »

Red...Not always...I seem to catch as many waves as the next guy and what I mean by that is, I can usually catch a wave at the same time the other guy does. I used my arms more then most KBer`s i`ve seen. I can`t denie I work hard to catch waves. late take-offs are easier but I have this pholosy, if I can catch the wave without cutting someone off, i`m going for it. If I make it, it looks good, if I eat it, oh well. It`s all about the picture.The down fall I see with the sizes of my boards is there needs to be some amount of steepness to the wave. It doesn`t have to be big, just a face that brakes with somekind of speed.
stemple
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Post by stemple »

There you have the achilles heel of small kneeboards. "they require a pretty good wave shape work well" Longer boards increase the range of waves you can rip on, go faster and generally ride better. They may not ride looser or deeper but they are way more versitile.
Flexman
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Post by Flexman »

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Last edited by Flexman on Sun Apr 30, 2006 9:14 am, edited 1 time in total.
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hart
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absolute truths

Post by hart »

Flexman,

Once more you make such accurate observations.

But for most of us, we live within the mundane rigidity of contemporary surfboards..solid foam and fibreglass..and this ( I think) is what stemple is referring to.

If you were to design (rigid) foam to react as if it were flexible, you would design certain elements with straightness. You would then design other portions with curve.

You may then blend it all together with some kind of 3 dimensional contour..a form of foil.

All with flex in mind..but concious that you're working with a medium that is without flex.

And so if you did, you would need length to make things happen subtley..otherwise it may all happen too quick.

And without the benefit (beauty) of inherent flex..that may be a disaster.

hart
Flexman
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Post by Flexman »

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Last edited by Flexman on Sun Apr 30, 2006 9:14 am, edited 1 time in total.
toofast
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Post by toofast »

I have to say , you guys confuse the hell out of me. Maybe i`m stuck in the dark age.I have shaped a few boards for myself.
I don`t consder myself a "shaper".I usually have my boards made. I don`t listen to the latest and greatest trends.Maybe I should. I don`t just go in and bye someone else`s design. I order my boards how I want them based on what I have riddin and what I think will make it work the way I want it to. The last board I had made is a exact copy of a board that I had made in the late 70s. A 4'9" stinger swallow with a hydo that goes into a step on the bottom, single fin box with a "Velzy" butterfly fin. It worked good back then,it works good now. I prefer loose boards. In my book, there`s nothing like dropping in on a good size wave on a short board and saying to myself, this is going to be fun !!!!
surfhorn
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Post by surfhorn »

Toofast- I loved riding smaller shapes in nice little, steep peaks: just drop in and go! Thats the thing I love about KBing. Everybody's right and every shape is right as long as we're all having fun.
kbing since plywood days
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