Opinions sought on small wave boards?

[willli]

the difference between the two being?

Simple. Forget Freud. This is about surfing. There are no heroic moments in mush, no barreling lapses of consciousness, so why are you out there? Except maybe you'll go insane if you don't get wet and catch something.. anything! But you didn't SCORE good surf, so the ego is left out. However, when you pull up to see 8foot perfect barrels tucked beyond 3 lines of foam and no easy way out, your brain is left in the seat so to speak as you begin torturing your body to reach "outside" which achieved rewards you with bent mind and when questioned after your session "How was it?" (idiot just look!) your ego leaps from your tongue and practically speaks for you.. "Killer! it was Killer!"

[fooj]

I would agree. There are probably guys that can make an all-arounder fish (Lis type or off-shoot of the design) go, but even they would do better on something more appropriate. You know DoorSurfing...? And we're talking absolutely crap surf right? Miserable windblown powerless disorganized desperate surf. I'm bummed when I grab my fish B4 work and show up at the beach After work to the above mentioned conditions. Real Bummed. I have to remind myself: "Jeff, Lucky you live Hawai'i" Then paddle out in my trucks (no undies) and make the best of it, wishing I had my Stub Vector.

[willli]

fish are good for this: floaters

any size wave they will hold the high line

tip the outside rail and they don't sideslip, they accelerate

which is not to say they're good in small weak surf. not for us. and if you're looking for small surf flow, fit in the pocket surfing, don't look here

but lets be honest, in most crap surf S turns are off the table
"ripping" a series of turns is almost a joke, the pits are crumbly

a flat rocker fish will extract any speed available (ususally enough to get you up on the roof) then you let the skegs release in the foam of the breaking wave, side slip, drive, repeat

one dimensional, sure

square peg? yup

but there are more places on a wave to go than the pocket

as to why standups choose em for small stuff

they feel so completely different than thrusters the only place they trust themselves on one IS small stuff
most common complaint: falling off the back trying to sink the tail to turn
stupidest design comment: where do I put the stomp pad?

[dorjeseahorse]

the difference between the two being?

Simple. Forget Freud. This is about surfing. There are no heroic moments in mush, no barreling lapses of consciousness, so why are you out there? Except maybe you'll go insane if you don't get wet and catch something.. anything! But you didn't SCORE good surf, so the ego is left out. However, when you pull up to see 8foot perfect barrels tucked beyond 3 lines of foam and no easy way out, your brain is left in the seat so to speak as you begin torturing your body to reach "outside" which achieved rewards you with bent mind and when questioned after your session "How was it?" (idiot just look!) your ego leaps from your tongue and practically speaks for you.. "Killer! it was Killer!"

Hi Willli

Its always good to parry with your good self as your dynamic returns require some clarity

No fan of Freud and whilst studying Jung in comparison to Mahayana/Vajrajana Buddhist psychology and doctrines realised that the old Swiss gentleman himself, despite accepting all desires were not sexual and thus repressed and that synchronicity was valid, still couldn’t separate the tree from the forest.

Ego can be good, bad or indifferent as all standpoints pertaining to the quality of the surf spring from self perception…otherwise known as EGO…indifference or generally becalmed doesn’t mean lack of .....in short... making no comment does not mean no ego engagement

But then this all depends upon one’s chosen school of experience as an ontological way based on the empirical.

Although I delight in Headwax’s threads and I am enjoying the data, I still cant fathom how “mush” has taken such a grip…probably cos we all have to surf it more than we want…sometimes the end is more than the means..but not always....I have been working on my reo in the closeout section of mush

As those great OZZ rockers of the 70’s sang ….and I’m sure I’ve posted this before

“Ego is not a dirty word…and if you got an ego better keep it good shape….


Bringing it back to kneeboard surfing….this is what keeps my Ego tidy from a sporting perspective….the barbs from friends and other water people provides humility.........and mush surfing suggests……

……“you cant always get what you want but if you try some times you get what you need”


aka dorje

[splashy]

Fish tails can be fine in small waves - it all depends how you surf them. The leverage can be nice to get some speed - but may not turn as tight as you'd like...
Depends what feels good for you....

[Bud]

http://www.blasthawaii.com/designs.htm

Here's the link to the info you are requesting.

Enjoy !

[dorjeseahorse]

[quote="Headwax."]Dorje

Mush is important in the same way as ego is relative.

quote]

relative to what

.......all those who are scared of death due to their own demise rather than attachment to loved ones might want to know your answer to this Captain!

my frustration of toooo much mush stifles my appreciation but for the "grace of Huey" (that 3 footer that appears from nowhere when every other punter has ridden crap to the shore break ) is what ive pinned the last 6 surfs hopes on

A surfers prayer

May Huey keep you in the embrace of his pocket
May the fish be for down the line tubes
May the onshore blow as you get out
May zinc cream never be proven to be a cause for cancer

wax will you shape your own mush board or have it done for you?

[Smokin Rock]

Headwax,
i have a 5'10 stubb and i ride the hell out it from april to october. ive caught swells on it. not even a breaking wave so the early entry can be a big boost to initial speed. i find really crappy waves have multiple dead spots where you have to grovel to the next section. with the stubb you fly over those dead sections and have good speed for when the wave offers up anything good. IMO the thickness is essential for terrible surf but of course i weigh 215# so the float is good!
its made kneeboarding a full time thing thing for me instead of jumping on the longboard when it got really small.

[dorjeseahorse]

[quote="Headwax."]Dorje... nice poem.... prayer

"Ego" the way Willli used it has emotive connotations. The way you use it, is by it's clinical definition. The two "meanings" are relative. Just as myself and Splashy enjoy mush waves, and Bud doesn't want to make a profession out of it. One man's mush is another man's meat.



quote]

wax im not saying any different...the emotional nature of our reactions, be they good, bad or neutral, is the some total of our experience...do we experience any other attitudes of mind rather than these three?

i admit i was being sassy by pointing out an often stated conception of mind/ego duality that is on a clinical level is contentious....but then, even on an experiential level, it is worth (if one feels like being sassy) suggesting that there the same...mind/ego that is

...if there is no thought is mind still present?...is there a thought not governed by good, bad and neutral?

meanwhile



when you say thinner board do you mean less volume...like an easy board to duck dive with...not that duck diving is related to mush surfing...though you tend to do a lot of it in those conditions

[red]

when you say thinner board do you mean less volume

Excuse me dropping in, Andrew

Thinner board/less volume don't necessarily go together. I've lost 1/4" thickness (actually 5mm) on my 6'6" but still have more volume than my 6'0" - just distributed a bit differently. Same thing on my high vs low volume 6'0" boards. Less domed deck, carry thickness a bit further to the ends, slightly modified outline... Fishes typically employ these tactics too.

[dorjeseahorse]

Hi Red

could you comment a bit more about the characteristics of your different volume 6ft boards...why when and where you have had such differences built in for what waves

very interested as the initial major feel difference between my quad and the thruster is volume...and this is just picking them up

my bath tub design programme would welcome this!...before i spoke to the shaper