My new KSUSA designed board...not yet but have questions

[sf_firestarter]

I'm in the process of designing my new board as its time for something new and different. So here is what I'm trying to do. I've always been a one board guy whether kneeboarding, snowboarding, windsurfing, etc...I just like to keep it simple. So first and foremost the new board has to be a jack of all trades. Although for the most part its home is OB, SF, USA and its rider is 6'1" and 185 lbs it will be traveling near and far.

My current board is fast as hell, paddles awesome, and is stable and confidence inspiring in big smooth swell (well big for me 12'+) but that’s where the love ends. Although it makes nice big turns it’s slow to react and does not like tight small turn, is tough on a late drop, and lastly seems just too big and buoyant.

Current board
Length: 6'
Width: 22"
Thickness: 2 3/4"
Tail: Square
Fins: Tri, all same size
Fin placement: back
Construction: Clark foam, full carbon fiber deck, fiberglass bottom, polyester resin

Here is what I've come up with for the replacement. It’s obviously nothing new or original but I think it will suit my needs. I would however really appreciate some feedback. Am I on the right track to address my needs and resolve the issues I have with the current board?

New Board
Length: 5'10"
Width: 23"
Thickness: 2 1/2"
Tail: rounded pin with small swallow tail cut
Fins: Tri with larger side fins
Fin placement: forward
Construction: closed cell foam, fiberglass, polyester or epoxy resin.

I would also like to say thanks to the board administrators and everybody that contributes to this message board as almost all my design ideas are the result of the discussions that take place here. I guess you could say its going to be a KSUSA designed board.

[surfhorn]

Prior to committing to a shape, ride a few shapes. There are enough KBers in this part of California where you can test quite a few shapes.

Freeline Design in Santa Cruz offers 3-4 current KBs for you to demo. Among them:
a couple 6 foot round tail quads/fins forward; a 6 foot swallow/ fins forward quad. And I beleive there is an older (2+ years) 5'10" r-pin quad.

[stemple]

First off my guess is that you will ride OB alot. Second size and weight play key elements into the right board.

I think slightly longer boards work best at OB. Because of sometimes rampy big waves combined with the current issues, I believe make a larger board work better. When I ride smaller thinner boards out there I find that late takeoffs and extra paddeling adds up to a smaller wave count and more beatings on the inside. Longer and thinner may work better for all around OB board. I would stay with your existing length of 6'0"

Fin placement, be careful here. I went from a fins back to fins forward design but had a year or so of adjustment time. The aussie fin forward tris rip and turn on a dime but I found they take a bit more finesse to ride. Its not unlike wheelbase in mtn. bikes. Shorter the wheel base the more sensitive it is but you give up some stability as a compromise. Maybe Don or Bob will weigh in here they have been riding OB for longer than I have.

I have a semi-new 6'3" 23"+ Blast F2K that i am just itching to take out at OB for its first fall ride.

[Don]

SF_Firestarter...

I have a few board laminents left (large block letters w/ KSUSA and logo as well). PM me and I'll send you a couple so you can have the lams glassed on.

Cheers,

Don

[sf_firestarter]

Thanks for all the input so far.

The demo idea is smart but I have some reservations about doing so as I don't want to be some mouch demoing boards and wasting his time if I'm not planning to buy a board from him.

Yes, OB will be the day to days with a few local points in the mix. I'm 6'1" 185 so not going much smaller than 5"10" but know I can get away with less board than I have. Although its nice to be able to paddle into those fall mackers before most the shortboard guys. The fin placement issue I'm not wavering on as that lack of turn-on-a-dime ability is my biggest complaint and the fin forward design seems like the best solution.

PM sent.

[frankfqr]

When it comes to board size and stats I find that nearly all responses on this web give no mention as to the size and weight of the person posting. I think (even though I don't recall precisely) that the general consesus is the board length should be close to your relative height. And I assume width and thickness follows along the accomendations of your actual girth . Me being a small guy (5'7" 170lbs.) don't feel comfortable taking on the 6' and up designs ridden by people 6'+ and rolling in over 200lbs. Maybe we can start a new guideline that reccomends if you advise board stats you should devulge your own. And following along that, if you ask for board stats, give yours. Just a thought. Cheers!!!

[ScottMac]

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[K-man]

My two cents..
One board?All rounder?5' 10'' sound short for an all rounder,seeing as your 6'1''.Might think longer.I ride aussie tri's[from oz.. ]
And they ride shorter than their size.Longer board,the fins can be changed out for smaller condits.
My credo?I'd rather have a ''bit'' more board,if I where relying on one board, than not enough.

cheers

[Headwax.]

hi sf

board you are describing would suit me up to six feet beach break in OZ

dependng on pinnyness of tail

yet

I am 5'7" and weigh 71 kilos (opposed to 84 kilos = 185 lbs)

but I would have 23 and half wide for 4 foot and under

if you go 23 and half you get more planshape curve, can drop the rocker slightly and so keep the length down to the 5 10 you are thinking of

especially if you keep the thickness 2 3/4 - considering your size
(hart says sparrow has them as thick as possible)

but maybe it wouldn't go at 12 foot - I don't know zilch about 12 feet

bottom contour? maybe that's important.: nose vee means nose lift can be out slightly(popular in the 70's at least) , belly concave for drive, further back between the fins vee hidden in a double concave seems popular, Webber (or was it Greg Loeher?)recommends flattish tail section contour to keep the water flow from being disrupted off the tail

on length: Baden Smith says the more rail in the water the better for bigger waves. He rides upto seven 2(?) in eight foot waves.

BTW

I have heard from one shaper that a small swallow is the same as no swallow at all (not my own shaper)

[red]

I'm similar size to you and am finding my 6'0" too small for my weight distribution in anything over 3'.
I think a 6'1"-6'2" matches my body length better (I don't overwhelm the board so often, burying it to the hilt).
I also think that fins forward mean you should add a bit of length, otherwise the problem above is likely to get worse.
Obviously different styles, board shapes come into play.

[john -]

FS

In terms of the late drop I highly recommend you have a go on a Flashpoint

I have two 5'10' boards...one a quad and the other a thruster

both boards have different attributes so I surf them in different conditions

However, Im always confident to drop late or steep on the flashpoint

if all flashpoints are the same in this regard then (with homage to hart) that attribute id be looking to identify and work into a newie whoever shapes it.

[Johnny]

sf_firestarter,

At 6'1" 185lbs + OB, I'd think 6' minimum board length

Ask Don & Bob, they're the experts

[Beeline2.0]

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[W.G. Facenda]

I think age has more to do with these answers than anything else.Also, there is so much more to a design than length.A 5ft 8" wide tailed fish is much more board than a 5ft 8 pintail and probably closer to at least 6 ft 2 -6ft 5 pintail."

[john -]

John

could you argument be counted by fins foward over fins back on most fish designs

though there is a Parkes fish on ebay at the moment that looks to have its fins and pads placed as foward as my Parkes rounded square