Board feedback from an old schooler

What works & what doesn't and in what type of conditions. Got a "secret" only you and your shaper know???? Post it here... we can keep it quiet ;-)

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swheeler
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Board feedback from an old schooler

Post by swheeler »

I had a shaper in the santa barbara area shape me a replica of a stev lis 1976 fish made for me. The original board was 6' with two wood fins and very little rocker. It hauled ass and was great for down the line big rock, beach break and anything fast and hollow. Based on suggestions from Rex Huffman and Tom Wolverton, two of the top ten kneeboarders of all time in my opinion, I added concave from the nose to about half way towards the tail and a quad fin set up. No change to the rocker. I have been surfing it two years now after switching back from stand up surfing and having a blast, getting way more than my share of waves at rincon and other local hot spots in the area. The lack of rocker has caused a couple perling episodes and my next board may have a touch more, but I have been enterinig some critical waves, including big rock lately, and tucking in quite nicely. Shaper was Tyler Anderson from Goleta, Monarch surfboards. Pavel in San Diego makes a great fish, but he is really expensive. Steve Lis is still shaping if you can find him. He lives on Kaui.
big rock, class of 73
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kidrock
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Post by kidrock »

you should post a couple of pix of the board in the album. :wink:

maybe also some classic Big Rock shots, too...and L****e Point and the Shoe if you're willing to share 'em. 8)
skansand
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Post by skansand »

Sounds like a cool board... Where does the concave start at in the nose? is there no belly or Vee at all? that could explain exessive perling.....

the best board ive rode so far has been a 6'3 x 22 1/2" fish ...quad, lots of rocker, lots of curve,slight concave in the nose to flat...

the worst was a 6'2 fish x 22"...twin keel, maybe 3" of nose rocker, straight rails , flat bottom....

both boards were 2.5" thick....the difference in feeling was night and day..
Tide is the master, tide can be a disaster...-Dub side of the Moon
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Jimbo
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Post by Jimbo »

Way back (1977) I had a twin fin fish that was flat, had hard rails and a concave thru to the mid point. As I recall it was about 5'8". Insane for hollow waves, beach breaks or reefs. Not as good at the Con but could really make some loooooong sections. Now ride Parkes Quads and love them so much. Let me know if you would like to try one and next time I come up to SB we can hook up for a surf.
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