chasing moombeams

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james devlin
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chasing moombeams

Post by james devlin »

3am,
boke!,
awake!(?)
frick, it 's too early!!!!!

after a hour of toss and turn, up time

what to do,
check b.s. winds,
ok wind good!
buoey 1,
there's swell!

coffe thermous full,
out the door,

full moon in a clear sky says,
race ya to the horizon bra,

park under shade tree at the end of the road and gear up and walk the half mile to the last sands watching the moon turn brown-red as it gets wet before me.
can see sets in the ribbon of reflective moonlight so jump in the water as falsedawn lights the palis,
get a top to bottom pitching , grinding, murdering set on the inches deep inside sandbar and after a pounding slip over it during a lull,

blunder around the Liko's sandbar before can figure where the sets are hitting it right,

it no cake walk and put everything into the paddle and freefall down into the trough and lay into the first starlight wall bottom turnand see the only thing to do is tuck in and see it what it dose.
well the lip pitches over and gives me the almound eye look at the world.

ok that will do piggy

by 7 the first signs of a crowd drives down the beach and i think a dozen slides is enough and surf down the rocks to dry sand and all i give the pips as i pull thechurcills off is,
"SHOULD OF BEEN HERE A HOUR AGO"
W.G. Facenda
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Post by W.G. Facenda »

"almond eye look at the world" ---8) 8) 8)
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Scott
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Post by Scott »

Devin, nice post...brings back memories of moonlight surfing. I had a couple of great sessions at Ala Moana bowls in the early 80's before finally giving it up (about to become a father then..too risky a way to play). But that was a great way to get an epic break to oneself with just a friend or two. Glad someone's still doing that on a kneeboard!
red
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Post by red »

whaddya expect - it's moon festival after all:
http://chineseculture.about.com/library ... 093097.htm

A moon wave beats mooncake anyday(erm..night)
john -
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Post by john - »

lovely read :!:
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tomway
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Post by tomway »

lovely read Exclamation
I agree, I love the way the sentences role and they way you laid it down on the page too... starting short and lengthening until the last paragraph is just a single line - like the ride to the beach it describes. Cheers James!
james devlin
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Post by james devlin »

glad you like it guys,
this am wasn't as nice but i got 3 and went home,
(weekend crowd, 3 guys beat me into the water!!!!! and by 7 there where a hole crowd of eight!!!!)
and the sandbar had changed and wasn't throaty
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