A couple of surf buddies and I had cleared our schedules to go boating to some far off surf spot. Friday, Tony and Bob had worked on the boat to make sure it was in top operational form for the journey. Sadly I got the call late Friday that the mission would have to be aborted becasue of a faulty non-starting engine #2.
We were all jacked up to go because there was a nice cobo swell in the water.We decided to stay local and surf the HB/Newport area. We met the next morning at sun up. There it was, nice glassy 2-4ft two way hollow-wedges at Newport. You know the kind of day. Off-the-lips, cut- backs, tubes etc. I even ran into fellow kneelos. Jim and Scott. We went out and surfed for two hours and really had a blast.
After a surf in Newport, it's traditional to go to Cappy's for breakfast with your bro's. Great omlettes and other grub. Someone even ordered a round of Bloody Mary's. Oh man here it comes! While just getting seated. Devo calls us after just getting back from his mainland Mexico trip where he scored some solid left point waves there. He comes in eats with us as we laughed our butts off talking about our old college days.
After breakfast, under gray skies we noticed the wind was still clam. We go back to the exact same parking area. We walk out on the sand and there it is again! Same glassy conditions, maybe a tad bigger and wedging hard all through the area. We go out again. Same kind of session but the drops on the sets were a bit more critical. Devo and I, manage to sneak off from the crowd and find a lonely peak to ourselves. We go for another two hours before Bob says that he's pushing the envelope now and he's got to get back to the family. Heavy peer pressure ensues! "Come on man, let's go to pub for a brew befor you go home." We are laughing so hard to see who was gonna be the first to thow in the towel. Bob makes the call and gets a an hour or so more clearance. We compromise and agree to go to Mutt Lynch's down by the Newport Pier. Another place you've got to hit if you like good food, sports, and HUGE SCHOONERS of beer!
We walk in and the place is packed. Some how Devo scores a table. We all order an Anchor Steam. A darn good brew! The waitress brings out these schooners that looked like fish bowls full of beer. I don't know how many ounces they were but you could build up your biceps lifting those things. The music is cranking, we are talking about our twenties again. You know, girls, parties, fighting, sports etc. The waitress comes by and asks if we all want another round. We quietly look at each other and start laughing. "Why not" we reply. More of the same. The beer tastes good and goes down fast. Finally, we get up to get out of there. We shook hands and said our good-byes. We all commented on what a great day it was.
As I'm walking on the side walk in Newport back to my car. I again notice how still it is out and I see white water up by the river. As I go over the bridge on PCH. I see another FRIGGIN even glassier peak thow out! Damn, I'm gonna hit it again. I quickly call my wife. She is way up in the valley with her nieces and nephews. I told her I would be home around dark beacuse I'm going back out again. I get on the horn and call Bob and Tony. By now, they are 10 miles down the coast heading home to Laguna. I tell them it's going off! I hear them both scream the F-word knowing that they had to get home for sure now. Two minutes later, as I'm putting on my wetsuit, I get they call. It's Bob and Tony saying, they pulled it off again and are comming back up.
I run to the sand between the two jetties. I see late afternoon uncrowded peaks exploding all over rthe place. I look for the most uncroweded peak and paddle out. Needless to say. I still felt a bit over-served. I'm hooting loudly as I paddle out by myself. There was only one kid near this peak. The first wave I take off on was bit bit bigger than the moring hours. With the tide a bit lower now, the waves seemed to stand up and thow a bit harder. Bob and Tony get back out and score some good lefts on their Al Merrick Flyers. These guys stand up surf. They rip and have always had admiration for us kneelos. They see what a cool group we have and love the way we ride. Jim Richardson shows about a half-hour into the session. He quickly snags some peaky lefts getting some nice cut-backs. It was his second go out of the day. We surf another couple of hours. Sharing waves, laughing and just generally be thankfull for great friends, great surf and a great day.
This one will be logged in my memory bank for a long long time. I hope to share a day like that with all of you some day.
Have a great Easter weekend!
heh heh
