what was your most memorable session and why? was it the waves? the people you were with? could you do no wrong that day- every move insync?
generalize on spots if you must but let's hear some details!
your most memorable session
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Smokin Rock
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your most memorable session
"This sucks more than anything that has ever sucked before." Butt-head
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kripchik
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I have a couple of memorable sessions.
1. Flinders, Oct 2001.. just two of us (KBs) in the water and I was really just starting to get my bottom turns. Clean 3-4 reef break.
2. The Farm Jan 2003, again, just me and John in the water, RH 3-4' barrelling waves, one after the other.
3. Woolamai, Nov 2003, three days of clean 3-6' waves. Early morning sessions, less crowd, cleanest conditions.
Cheers
Sophia
1. Flinders, Oct 2001.. just two of us (KBs) in the water and I was really just starting to get my bottom turns. Clean 3-4 reef break.
2. The Farm Jan 2003, again, just me and John in the water, RH 3-4' barrelling waves, one after the other.
3. Woolamai, Nov 2003, three days of clean 3-6' waves. Early morning sessions, less crowd, cleanest conditions.
Cheers
Sophia
Surf coz U can!
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DrStrange
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4X overhead San Miguel, Baja. 20+ feet back inside a grinder when low and behold...the black fangs of the jetty appear at the end of the cannon barrel. Hmmm, guess this one won't make it past the end of the jetty after all. Long and short of it, ended up IN the jetty and somehow managed to get free before the next wave and then a 10 minute death paddle until the next lull and safety. NO DINGS!!!
Also, totally blown out wind slop at Chun's Reef on Oahu on a raggedy old canvas mat. Alone. No one out or on the beach. Sunny day. Just a grove. But somehow one of the funnest sessions ever. The one above was the all time scariest.
Also, totally blown out wind slop at Chun's Reef on Oahu on a raggedy old canvas mat. Alone. No one out or on the beach. Sunny day. Just a grove. But somehow one of the funnest sessions ever. The one above was the all time scariest.
There's even pics of mine, or a time/person that are close enough, courtesy of Cripple Crusader: viewtopic.php?t=257&start=15
Dunes is a beach/reef break in the middle of a 3km stretch of beach. I hit it 3 days in a row just like this - all alone except for the Southern Right Whale and calf that were hanging out in the T/O zone. I have a healthy respect for big sea creatures, so I didn't bug them, but it was mystical to have such good waves and a curious whale calf swimming by to check me out when I was waiting for the next wave. There was a mound out to sea. I calculated that the set would arrive 5 waves after i saw it lift on the mound. It was like clockwork and peaked up at exactly the same spot every time - perfect for pushing yourself deeper and deeper.
I left SA for Australia a few weeks later. What a farewell gift.
A few days later some idiot surfer tried to climb on the whale and got his arm broken by a lazy flick of a fin.
Dunes is a beach/reef break in the middle of a 3km stretch of beach. I hit it 3 days in a row just like this - all alone except for the Southern Right Whale and calf that were hanging out in the T/O zone. I have a healthy respect for big sea creatures, so I didn't bug them, but it was mystical to have such good waves and a curious whale calf swimming by to check me out when I was waiting for the next wave. There was a mound out to sea. I calculated that the set would arrive 5 waves after i saw it lift on the mound. It was like clockwork and peaked up at exactly the same spot every time - perfect for pushing yourself deeper and deeper.
I left SA for Australia a few weeks later. What a farewell gift.
A few days later some idiot surfer tried to climb on the whale and got his arm broken by a lazy flick of a fin.
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willli
- Ripper (more than 100 posts)
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back in the early 70's, my memory is dim on exactly the year, cause at the time I was making multiple trips to Rincon,PR to surf and dive, but the wave was the same, Tres
album_pic.php?pic_id=1034
and I had this corky carroll spacestick twinfin, 5'10", no leash, virtually a slab kneeboard in shape, as my only board with me, and true to local tradition I rode this one board in anything that came along. I'm not going to say Tres was 25', it was more like 18-20 and real glassy and clean. There were well equipped guys out on their hawaiian guns and you have to picture that I wasn't kneeing this thing, I was standing. well I take my wave and skip like I was a flat rock thrown from neptune's hand all the way to the trough where I was swatted flat by the lip that was chasing me down the face. Now the guys who really appreciated my show were the locals. Earned me some corona and a lot of arm around my shoulder laughing hysterical discripto of me, the loco one. and i learned what "undergunned" meant.
album_pic.php?pic_id=1034
and I had this corky carroll spacestick twinfin, 5'10", no leash, virtually a slab kneeboard in shape, as my only board with me, and true to local tradition I rode this one board in anything that came along. I'm not going to say Tres was 25', it was more like 18-20 and real glassy and clean. There were well equipped guys out on their hawaiian guns and you have to picture that I wasn't kneeing this thing, I was standing. well I take my wave and skip like I was a flat rock thrown from neptune's hand all the way to the trough where I was swatted flat by the lip that was chasing me down the face. Now the guys who really appreciated my show were the locals. Earned me some corona and a lot of arm around my shoulder laughing hysterical discripto of me, the loco one. and i learned what "undergunned" meant.
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Smokin Rock
- Legend (Contribution King!)
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interesting.
two californians and both pick San Miguel. it is a nice wave.
august in 1985 i think. there was a hurricane off baja that had come far north and it was so close it was real rainy and stormy. i was working outside in long beach and got rained out. went home and noticed the weather was changing rapidly. the wind seemed off or side offshore in the middle of the day. i grabbed my board and headed for huntington cliffs to what we back then called the hole. that gap in the cliffs where you can check the waves. the wind was straight offshore and the waves were 10-12' faces and reeling down the sandbars for like 75-100 yrds due to the extreme angle of the south swell and holding because of the wind.
the parking lot was empty and there was no one out i guess because only a short time before it was onshore and dumping rain.
i was catching waves from just south of the hole and riding them down to the middle of the north cliffs. all by myself. that was pretty memorable.
two californians and both pick San Miguel. it is a nice wave.
august in 1985 i think. there was a hurricane off baja that had come far north and it was so close it was real rainy and stormy. i was working outside in long beach and got rained out. went home and noticed the weather was changing rapidly. the wind seemed off or side offshore in the middle of the day. i grabbed my board and headed for huntington cliffs to what we back then called the hole. that gap in the cliffs where you can check the waves. the wind was straight offshore and the waves were 10-12' faces and reeling down the sandbars for like 75-100 yrds due to the extreme angle of the south swell and holding because of the wind.
the parking lot was empty and there was no one out i guess because only a short time before it was onshore and dumping rain.
i was catching waves from just south of the hole and riding them down to the middle of the north cliffs. all by myself. that was pretty memorable.
"This sucks more than anything that has ever sucked before." Butt-head
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farnzilla
- Local (More than 25 post)
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- Location: Brisbane Australia
Some of my best memories relate to surfs I've had. I think they're all memorable for some reason, whether it be due to the conditions, the location, the mates I've spent time with or the stoke in general - it's all good.
One session in particular sticks in my mind. It was a few years ago and I was fairly new to KBing and on a steep learning curve (which hasn't lessened much).
A great friend of mine, who is unfortuantely a long boarder (and quite good at it), has parents who had the foresight to maintain a holidayunit for their kids in Rutherford St, at Lennox Head.
Despite the fact that the view got totally built out by a brown painted, corrigated iron monstrosity, and that the decor is purely 60's, going on a roadtrip with Tony is one of my favorite things.
It was winter, and my Queensland bones, and inadequate wettie were struggling with the conditions, and the tiny surf.
Anyway, TC, who is the consumate thinker, figured that there might be a wave at Belongill, and the rather than drinking beer, we should go for a drive.
Half an hour later, we took the short walk down the planks to check out the surf, to find a perfect right, about 3-4 foot peeling in, wave after wave, with only 3 blokes out. Needless to say, we nearly ripped the racks off the Lantra, and were in the water in minutes.
It was getting late in the arvo, but the sets, in some freak of nature given the morbid conditions everywhere else, just seemed to keep rolling through like a wave machine.
I was having an absolute ball, being able to experiment unhindered, without a crowd to worry about. In fact, one of the other surfers out was another kneelo. He only had one leg, but watching him rip made me realise what I could do if I persisted - a total inspiration.
I still have an image of TC, locked into some kind of longboard, drop knee speed stance, racing a wave in as I paddled back out; the setting sun illuminating him with an intense golden glow, an ear to ear maniac grin locked onto his face....gotta get one more in before it gets to dark.....
Later, we had the best meal ever at Pancho Villa, ( Matador washed down with Coopers - that should be another post in itself) with our ladies unable to stop us obsessing over that "feeling that money can't buy".
After a crap night at work like the one I just had, thinking about this is way better than counting sheep.
Bring on the zeeeeeeds....
Have I said how much I love this web site.
Cheers
Mark.
One session in particular sticks in my mind. It was a few years ago and I was fairly new to KBing and on a steep learning curve (which hasn't lessened much).
A great friend of mine, who is unfortuantely a long boarder (and quite good at it), has parents who had the foresight to maintain a holidayunit for their kids in Rutherford St, at Lennox Head.
Despite the fact that the view got totally built out by a brown painted, corrigated iron monstrosity, and that the decor is purely 60's, going on a roadtrip with Tony is one of my favorite things.
It was winter, and my Queensland bones, and inadequate wettie were struggling with the conditions, and the tiny surf.
Anyway, TC, who is the consumate thinker, figured that there might be a wave at Belongill, and the rather than drinking beer, we should go for a drive.
Half an hour later, we took the short walk down the planks to check out the surf, to find a perfect right, about 3-4 foot peeling in, wave after wave, with only 3 blokes out. Needless to say, we nearly ripped the racks off the Lantra, and were in the water in minutes.
It was getting late in the arvo, but the sets, in some freak of nature given the morbid conditions everywhere else, just seemed to keep rolling through like a wave machine.
I was having an absolute ball, being able to experiment unhindered, without a crowd to worry about. In fact, one of the other surfers out was another kneelo. He only had one leg, but watching him rip made me realise what I could do if I persisted - a total inspiration.
I still have an image of TC, locked into some kind of longboard, drop knee speed stance, racing a wave in as I paddled back out; the setting sun illuminating him with an intense golden glow, an ear to ear maniac grin locked onto his face....gotta get one more in before it gets to dark.....
Later, we had the best meal ever at Pancho Villa, ( Matador washed down with Coopers - that should be another post in itself) with our ladies unable to stop us obsessing over that "feeling that money can't buy".
After a crap night at work like the one I just had, thinking about this is way better than counting sheep.
Bring on the zeeeeeeds....
Have I said how much I love this web site.
Cheers
Mark.
Just one more wave!!!
Baja
Dusk, 1982, Glen Crawford, a kneelo I had met in Oz the year before, myself and my neighbor David Settles found ourselves a half an hour on the road into Punta Abreojes. We had never been there before so we had no idea how long the drive in would take. It was dark by now so I executed an executive decision (being the driver and all) we would sleep on the side of the road until dawn then blaze a path to the famed right. I dont know when I first heard the pitter patter of rain but an hour into the deluge I recall thinking "hmmm...whats an arroya again?" We awoke at daybreak to a swift running river about 50 yards ahead of us, a scary sight. My truck had sunk in the silt up to the wheel wells and one back tire was in the air. Eventually we were able to dislodge my 4x4 and we walked to the swift moving water to see how deep it was, we quickly realized we were not the Moses types and the passage to the point was denied.
We were sh*tting ourselves thinking how good the surf must be. We had no other choice but to wait until the road dried out a bit. We made our way back the the main Hwy. and got skunked getting into San Ignacio. The main road into the town was also washed out! So we camped by the side of the road under the stars with the local folk until morning. Our fire burning late into the night discussing how the surf was going to be, who was going to get the deepest barrel, who was going over the falls hitting the reef.
The road into abreojes was slow going, we avoided the deep pools of water, and eventually arrived in the afternoon at the lighthouse at Razors! We were the only ones there! The surf was 4 to 6 feet with only our crew out. We surfed for three days with nary a soul. Unfortunatly glen hit the reef during our first session and was scraped up. That evening he drank like a fish to aleviate the pain and spewed the whole next day laying on the dirt in the shadow of my truck.
Sometimes the trials and tribulations of getting to a spot make the rewards sweeter. I love Baja.
We were sh*tting ourselves thinking how good the surf must be. We had no other choice but to wait until the road dried out a bit. We made our way back the the main Hwy. and got skunked getting into San Ignacio. The main road into the town was also washed out! So we camped by the side of the road under the stars with the local folk until morning. Our fire burning late into the night discussing how the surf was going to be, who was going to get the deepest barrel, who was going over the falls hitting the reef.
The road into abreojes was slow going, we avoided the deep pools of water, and eventually arrived in the afternoon at the lighthouse at Razors! We were the only ones there! The surf was 4 to 6 feet with only our crew out. We surfed for three days with nary a soul. Unfortunatly glen hit the reef during our first session and was scraped up. That evening he drank like a fish to aleviate the pain and spewed the whole next day laying on the dirt in the shadow of my truck.
Sometimes the trials and tribulations of getting to a spot make the rewards sweeter. I love Baja.
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WillP
- Ripper (more than 100 posts)
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- Joined: Tue Mar 25, 2003 12:04 pm
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I've had lots of unreal sessions, but since I started kneeboarding a few years ago I'd have to say that my most memorable session took place about 2 years ago in Imperial Beach. I'd been invited to one of the gatherings down there and was sooooooo stoked to have the chance to surf with a whole group of kneeboarders. I didn't know what to expect. I drove down there solo from Palos Verdes and I can still remember pulling up to the parking lot and seeing like 15 or more kneeboarders out ripping up the little peaks that were to be had that day. I was so nervous I almost didn't go out. Being from one of the more unfriendly stretches of coast in CA I knew how badly outsiders could be treated. What made me feel way more at ease was when Mark Robertson and Bruce Royer came up and introduced themselves. That just made my day. After that I paddled out and met a few more of the guys. The waves weren't that good that day but being out with other kneeboarders and feeling accepted even though I was way younger than all of them, and also the new guy, made me feel like part of something bigger. I finally felt like I belonged. Yeah that was for sure the best session I've ever had!
Thanks...
Thanks...
Most Memorables would be a 2 way tie between: Best and Funniest,
Woolami (another Vic fave - I will look out for you Krip chick - do you wear a Superwoman wettie?)
For me it was- 1987 post HSC 2 days - me and my mate Lance Parmigiana sharing absolutely mechanical left handers with very few other bods about. One of those rare uncrowded days with crystal clear water - surfed out after a 3 hour session craving food and beer. Magic!!!
Funniest: near Anglesea: circa 1986 - after an average surf, my mates Beau, Did and I saw some illegal campers had stash the best part of a slab in some bushes near us and then they walked off. Naturally we proceeded to retrieve and drink some of the beer and noticed the group heading back our way. We threw the remnants back in the bush and the empties in another and proceeded just to act nonchalant.
The guys were right on to us and said: 'come on guys where are the beers?' We fained confusion and denial until my scavenger dog Ellie emerged from said bushes carrying a rumpled beer can and then dropped it at my foot! I couldn't believe it - while hilarious I was ready for a bashing by this group of about 10 guys, we were shitting and figuring the dog was mine I thought I was in for it first. Thankfully the guys saw the funny side and let us off - we were releived and gave them $5 and a thank you for the beer.
Woolami (another Vic fave - I will look out for you Krip chick - do you wear a Superwoman wettie?)
For me it was- 1987 post HSC 2 days - me and my mate Lance Parmigiana sharing absolutely mechanical left handers with very few other bods about. One of those rare uncrowded days with crystal clear water - surfed out after a 3 hour session craving food and beer. Magic!!!
Funniest: near Anglesea: circa 1986 - after an average surf, my mates Beau, Did and I saw some illegal campers had stash the best part of a slab in some bushes near us and then they walked off. Naturally we proceeded to retrieve and drink some of the beer and noticed the group heading back our way. We threw the remnants back in the bush and the empties in another and proceeded just to act nonchalant.
The guys were right on to us and said: 'come on guys where are the beers?' We fained confusion and denial until my scavenger dog Ellie emerged from said bushes carrying a rumpled beer can and then dropped it at my foot! I couldn't believe it - while hilarious I was ready for a bashing by this group of about 10 guys, we were shitting and figuring the dog was mine I thought I was in for it first. Thankfully the guys saw the funny side and let us off - we were releived and gave them $5 and a thank you for the beer.
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szrbloke
- Ripper (more than 100 posts)
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- Location: Aussie in South Devon UK
Best Sessions...
I suppose 3 really stand out for me;
New Years 2000 - Moruya river mouth - my last surf in australia before I moved to the UK. The first day I had surfed really poorly, very annoyed with myself for wasting nice waves. Only about 10 people out, including my mate Peter on a longboard and one other kneelo. Then the second day it all came together and I rode really well on waves that had nice power and shape.
Grassy Head - 1984 - All the big surf was happening further up the coast so me and my "friends" all of us kneeboarders + 3 locals had about 4 hours of long, long rides about 3-4 feet. Get off at the end and walk back to the point. I still want to live in Grassy....
North Entrance 1985 - Once again it was all going off at Foresters so it was swarming there, but where we were at 6am there was nobody, and it was 4-5 foot and glassy, tubes too. I got more tubes that day than all the rest of my surfing combined. Any minute our posse (4 kneelos and a boogie + my brother on a board he could never ride) thought we would be invaded, but no, only 2 others showed up...
New Years 2000 - Moruya river mouth - my last surf in australia before I moved to the UK. The first day I had surfed really poorly, very annoyed with myself for wasting nice waves. Only about 10 people out, including my mate Peter on a longboard and one other kneelo. Then the second day it all came together and I rode really well on waves that had nice power and shape.
Grassy Head - 1984 - All the big surf was happening further up the coast so me and my "friends" all of us kneeboarders + 3 locals had about 4 hours of long, long rides about 3-4 feet. Get off at the end and walk back to the point. I still want to live in Grassy....
North Entrance 1985 - Once again it was all going off at Foresters so it was swarming there, but where we were at 6am there was nobody, and it was 4-5 foot and glassy, tubes too. I got more tubes that day than all the rest of my surfing combined. Any minute our posse (4 kneelos and a boogie + my brother on a board he could never ride) thought we would be invaded, but no, only 2 others showed up...
all the best,
Scotty
Scotty