Kneeboard Surfing USA Community Forum

BillL wrote:Best story in a long time Phil, a great insight into what preparation is necessary to even think about tackling waves of that magnitude. Didn't Rich Pavel ever paddle out at Waimea on a kneeboard? Was he riding something similiar?

--Yes, he went out at the bay on a large day and didn't make it to the bottom of 3 waves.He toled me a few guys shook his hand on the beach for trying. he was riding a 6ft lis with full pendo deck

Hey Phil. That would make a great story for The Surfers Journal.I think you should submit it with photos and the Vader.

A great read ,yes worthy of any glossy on the planet ,i know what its like to be scared but that is in the petrifying pooing your pants class .No i think one those hold downs or a caught inside would take one beyond the ability to poo ones pants
More please

[albumimg]25402[/albumimg]
[albumimg]25401[/albumimg]
[albumimg]25400[/albumimg]

Hello Everybody,

Thanks so much for your warm responses to my story....glad you liked it. Here are some photos of the boards I've used at Mavericks. The Darth Vader (black) board is 6'7", swallow tail tip to tip 11", width 21 1/4" at the widest point about 40 1/2" from the nose, thickness about 2 1/4" throughout the middle third of the board (all measurements made by me, so they're approximate). The John Mel Freeline board is 6'10", 13 1/4"-21"-14 1'2", 2 5/8" (measured by John when he shaped it).
Rich Pavel (Toby, who shaped Darth Vader) told me about his rides at Waimea. Johm Mel has also ridden waves there. I've heard rumors, over the years, of kneeboarders in Hawaii and Australia who have taken on large waves as well. Does anyone know about them?
Mike asked if I've gone left at Mavericks. Yes. In some ways the wave looks more do-able, and not a lot of people are going for them. The drop is at least as steep as for the rights (and can toss you....cracked some ribs there one time), but maybe a bit smoother, at least on the small to middle-sized days (for Mavericks), with a spot for a good bottom turn and then a short race to the channel. On the big days, the left is pretty much impossible to make......it tends to close out, and you definitely don't want to get caught in there by the rest of the set or other sets.....you'd get pushed through the rocks for sure and maybe get driven to the bottom. But there's not much chance of someone going for it on those days anyway....they don't look even remotely ride-able.
I'm stoked to be a part of the KSUSA site, and hope to see you for the championships that are coming up. All the best.

Phil

As Albert pointed out "No Pads" how do the knees hold up ? I was going to say it takes balls of steel but I'm going with body of steel now.

Thanks for the picures Phil. The Vader board is differnt. Thanks for taking all of us along for the ride.

Phil, years ago you'd given me pieces of your account once or twice in the water with you or on the shore--all I remember was your saying you wish there was some other kneelo to go out with you, and you have to stay off to the side a bit and not rush things. I didn't understand so much what you meant.

Now I do. Scary stuff. I appreciated the nod in your article to "Ledges", as that's such a great spot.

Do I remember you telling me Paul Wuslich paddled out at Mavs a few times (but not on a big day)?

To me, the separation of kneeboarding and standup surfing has to do with whatever is that size where the natural chop of the swell is too much to keep attached to a kneeboard (standups can just flex their knees to absorb the bounce). At what wave face size, Phil, do you think that, even without much wind, that a kneeboard just can't stay in the water enough to make it safe and doable?

And I join those in welcoming you to KSUSA.

Thanks for the reply Scott. For sure Paul Wuslich has been out there, a couple of times I think. And there have been a kneeboarder or two from San Francisco as well. And I want to say that there have been others, but can't remember exactly who.

As far as wave size and what's do-able on a kneeboard, all I can do is speculate from my experience out there. If you look at the three photos that were posted earlier, they were all on the predecessor Freeline kneeboard to that which I'm now riding (the predecessor having been snapped out there). It was a lot like my current John Mel board, but had a thruster fin arrangement and a bit more V in the nose. The last two waves were both pretty small for Mavericks, and the drop wasn't too bad......probably bounced a little but mainly remained in contact with the wave. The first wave was much bigger, probably the biggest wave (with possibly one or two others) of my life. On that one, I did get hung up at the top for a bit, then free-fell for maybe the first third of the wave. When I hit, the board did cavitate a little (thought I was going down for sure) but then tracked out of there. As I started the bottom turn I felt like I'd regained some measure of control. So that wave, on that day with that board, felt like I'd hit the upper limit of what was possible. But who knows? I've maintained for years that what's needed is someone with a more aggressive approach on a kneeboard out there. Not sure how much longer I'm going to continue to try this.....perhaps it's time to pass the baton.
One thing to add, for reality's sake: I can't remember a single wave I've tried at Mavericks where the drop was totally smooth. There's always at least a bit of chatter or bounce going on. You're right about the disadvantage of not being able to cushion it all by flexing at the knees and hips. On many drops, my board has separated completely from the wave face briefly, and I've separated from the board. With luck we all come back together a split second later. With luck.
I hope this answers your question and that we get a chance to surf together soon.

Phil

I went to high school with Phil, and we traveled separately to NZ to live in the mid 70's. As a matter of fact-he is my daughter's godfather! I lost contact with him for almost 30 years, until he walked up and sat down at a table in the restaurant during the 2004 nationals in Santa Cruz and announced "Hi-I'm Phil Curtiss!" We renewed our friendship after all those years, and I learned about his exploits at Mavericks, and other out of the way spots in his area. He invited my girlfiend Carole and me to stay at his home during one of the contests, and I was privileged to view his quiver as well as the photos he has of Maverick's. Probably my favorite photo was one of him and Jay Moriarty splitting the peak at Mav's-with Phil going left. It was a perfectly glassy day, Phil was looking back to make sure that Jay wasn't headed his direction, and you could see the reflection of both of them in the face of the wave. Hope you can scan that and post it Phil-it is a memorable shot. PS-how about a shot at Todos this winter?

"I've maintained for years that what's needed is someone with a more aggressive approach on a kneeboard out there. Not sure how much longer I'm going to continue to try this.....perhaps it's time to pass the baton. "

ahhhh...hmmmm...where is it? bugger me, the bloody dog's eaten my baton..someone else will have to take up Phil's challenge.

Wurtulla is 1 ft and offshore...better go.

top story Phil and top effort. enough inspriation there to stoke our entire global brotherhood. take care.

[albumimg]25507[/albumimg]

Hi All,

Bob mentioned a photo I have of Jay Moriarity and myself at Mavericks, splitting the peak. Here it is......definitely my favorite shot. Jay is looking over his shoulder to see if he's given me enough room. He was always a gentleman like that.....a serious waterman, but a thoughtful individual too. I remember that we had lunch together in Half Moon Bay after the session. We talked about surfing, jobs, women.....life in general. I made the comment, as we ate, that he was in a position to be a great role model for the life of a waterman. Alas.
I'd first met Jay when he was maybe 14, paddling up and down Pleasure Point with Frosty, as he was being trained for taking on the waves at Mavericks. I was also lucky enough to watch him paddle into his first wave there, a year later. I'll never forget it. He came back to the lineup just glowing. The was no stopping him after that.....we all saw shots of his adventures out there and read the stories. He EARNED all the acclaim.....worked out hard, paddling, running, swimming, taking on new situations in the wild whenever he could. All those big waves he rode? He had trained for them. The occasional bad wipeout? He had prepared for those. And he always cheered on those who were pushing their own personal limits, encouraged people in their time of need. Quite a guy.
I still, and will always, mourn his loss. But he is not forgotten. Among other things done in his memory, we have an annual paddleboard race each June (next year's will be the 10th), the proceeds of which go to scholarships for our local Junior Guards programs. Jay would have liked that.

Great story and excellent rundown!

[fullalbumimg]23539[/fullalbumimg]

Way to go!!! You da man!

I dare say, I think I missed my day.

javascript:emoticon(':D')YOOOO!!! phil, joel5150 here,thank you for re-running photo and story,i firmly beleave that Sharpie ( Bill Sharpe-former kneeboarder) should crack open the xxl wave check book and cut you a check for $50,000. THAT WOULD SET THE SURF WORLD ON ITS EAR !!!it would show that Kneeboarding is NOT extinct,were baaacck !!! and its a whole new ballgame !! we have earned and deserve respect,!!!a place in any line -up in the world,Pipeline,Thoopu,Blacks,cloudbreak,...you name it...instead of being the "Black sheep" 0f the sport we are the BAD ASSS BLAAACKKKK SHEEP!"of the sport!!!!!! you have my respect and admiration, keep surfin'(kneeboarding) keep gettin' crazy,cause thats what we do!!!( ive heard it 100 times:"Crazy fricken' kneeboarder.". did you see that barrell??!! from stand up surfers!!!so................ go do ...the voodoo ...that you do so well!!! joel5150photojavascript:emoticon(':D')

You are the man, period.

I've gotten into some pretty sizey stuff at Tarantulas and also Wedge/El Moro, but man, Mavericks? Scary stuff.

Great story.

Phil is currently serving in the Peace Corps in Zambia and is a long way away from any surf. You can email him at pcledges@gmail.com and he might get back to you when he gets to a computer.