only time I surfed lennox was 76.
place was so deserted we camped in a half finished block of flats in the middle of town.
Big campfire. The block of flats had been condemmed before it was finished cause they hadn't put the foundations in properly. The whole place was tilted like a tottering tower of pisa. Interesting sitting around a campfire built on a concrete slab, with crooked half finsished walls leaning over us, mixing in a little mull and sucking on a flagon of some god-forsaken-Mcwilliams-swill, Geoff strumming on his guitar and margaret trying to figure out how to open the can of bake beans without a can opener, using a rock and a fork, busting her fingers and getting nowhere till we figured on the Spam we'd been saving for when we made it to Noosa, that and the way we had to fry the potatoes in the sardine oil to stop them sticking to the bottom of the aluminium pan .....
Next day for the early, Lennox at six foot, long long walls, no wind, deep green water, and slippery slidey baby ass smooth rocks. Three guys out. The water moves so fast down that point. So fast. When your ride the wave at high tide the land whizzes past about fifty feet away.
Must have been riding a single fin (big raked job), cause the unknown thing that ran into me while I was paddling out the back after my second wave, the unknown
thing that was swimming deep, still swam into my fin and knocked me off my board. Must have been a big flathead or something.

Something with a sore head and a taunt flexed body and a nightmare face, it's teeth straight from the meat mincer maker my grandmother used to keep in her kitchen next to the knives and the razor blades...
Well maybe.
Cure for coldness when getting out of surf? Drive home in your sopping wet steamer with the heater on fullllllll high. Tog the wool beanie fairly low and it keeps the salt water out of your eyes.
Guess where my 1982 gemini rusted out?
On second thoughts don't bother guessing
Second cure is scotch, preferably not the whole bottle.
Save some for after dinner while you're skiteing about that barrel no one saw except yourself.
That's what heads are for Ross.
To keep your memories in.
Now if only I could remember where I left mine......