Gratitude/Blacks

[matt cunningham]

Hello all,

Thought I'd start a new post about being grateful for kneeboarding. I'm hitting a milestone, 47, and for the first time not able to kneeboard at the level I'd like. I've been diagnosed with a degenerative hip, or osteoarthritis. Fos the last two years I've been managing through pain and rehab to keep surfing. But just this month the pain got bad enough to schedule a hip replacement. Hard to walk up the hill from Blacks, two days in a row of kneeriding and my hip hurts like an old lady shopping at Wal Mart the day after Christmas.

So I've had to face up and wait it out this winter until I get the new hip or another steroid shot that will give me two more months of surfing. I dawn patroled and surfed a right deep water break on Big Wedenesday out in San Diego Harbor (20 foot rideable faces on the sets) caught my share but couldn't walk the next day.


Headed to Blacks that late morning and realized I couldn't perform at the level I needed. Watched from the cliff from 9:00 to 11:00. Watched Dave (without parrot or grand piano but that's another story) down from Moss catch a couple, think I saw Bob G. out, saw somebody on a bodyboard (Didn't look like a boogie board, Brad did you see that guy before you got rag dolled?) catch four or five. Eric and Ty scored. Pablo. Where was Yamo? Wino and the B brothers were not there yet. Maybe Tad, couldn't tell, but he's been a lot better lately, his illness ratcheting down a notch and he talks a little to guys in the line up.

It was so beautiful up there. You can see a set coming in from the northwest and predict it at least thirty seconds ahead of time if you know the layout. Blacks bending off the underwater canyon looking like it's coming out of the south when it's a west swell, great walls with bowls, not the best ever but pretty good, The Cove breaking in the distance, white water and spray like smoke in the distance with Boomers going off at 25 feet (I am not kidding-three body surfers tried to head out but the lifeguards at the Cove held them back) and realized this is it.

I have done this (Kneeridden Blacks) longer and with more regularity than anything in my life (Thirty years). Longer than marriage, longer than the kids. Longer than teaching.

Now I am not dying and I am not maudlin. I'll do it again. Right now I need to cycle a lot and get a new tiitanium hip. Big deal. It struck me how cool this sport is and that we take it a bit too seriously or for granted at times.

Northwest swells with Blacks like one long point from the road to the slide, west swells with four or five seperate A frames, north peak the heaviest, New Zealand souths with long groomed lines, so many moods and faces.

Wow. Epipahny. Most of the nutty kneelos I've knows over the years know this better than stand ups, they have so much fricken fun out in the water. Walt and Jeff back in the day acting like total loons, cutting each other off and screaming. Dogman naked the first time I saw him, possibly blazing, gone for 20 years and then back, (the naked part might be a myth you have to check with the Dog-but he did have a cement square at UCSD that said Surf Blacks naked), Rex H. on low tide offshore days, (Now he's climbing Anapurna, that's another story too)Bill L with his slow learner board and that cartoon of him with the biggest schnoz ever, nose hair coming out of his nostrils ( and no Bill your nose it not that big, you're handsome really you are),meeting Jason Foster for the first time without hair recovering from chemo, Yamo and Super Dave came on the scene when I was back in Grad school, starting a family not on top of it in the morning for a few years, (P.H.D's in physics both, brilliant, they charge/charged the biggest Blacks I've seen), Wino (Always Charging) and the B brothers (the most fluid kneebaorders I've ever seen) when they first started, Pat (where did he go?), Bob Gove (way too many stories to even start) and Eric Jensen who inspired me to give up stand up surfing and start kneeriding again in '76, Russell, South Peak Brad, the most positive energy ever (I wish I could be that way-the dark side sometimes takes over), Jon S, before he split to Kaui and became The Bike Doctor, lately Joe and Martin have come down and brought their kids, who else???

Enough already. What a great deal knebaording is. The point is, we should just be grateful. I know I am. Don with his site has done a great thing, thanks for doing it, a whole history on the net.

That's plenty. I'd like to hear other stories. Jack once said I was the most "normal" kneelo he's ever known and that's scary because my students and wife's friends think I'm off my rocker. So we are a breed apart. Give us some gratitude. Let us hear. Peace.

Thanks,
Matt

[surfhorn]

Matt - Thanx for the great post. Its wonderful to read other KBer's thoughts and about their experiences.

I'm 52 and wish it were 25, given today's equipment....but just for a moment. I'm truly happy with my place in life and my KBing-worn-out body. My ankles were shot to the poiint where I couldn't kick into waves any more....well, just enough to plant myself firmly in the lip and get pitched. So I quit for 5 years and just did a little longboarding.

But after letting my ankles rest, I rebuilt them with exercise, gave up all land sports (running as a soccer ref) and I've been happily back in the H20 for 2 1/2 years. Also, riding a 6'0" (and soon to be longer) KB has really made KBing a possibility for me again. With a longer KB I can use my arms to paddle more. And I went to a smaller surface area swim fin to lessen stress on my ankles - same thing would apply for your hip(s). Check out Simons' new vid NSG '05 where he is riding a 6'10" KB without wearing fins. Me thinks there is method in his maddness (Simon AND Bruce Hart!!).

And now I'm back in the lineup and loving life!

I have many surf buddies with replacement hips and knees and they are surfing regularly again. They were very depressed going into the operation but came out stoked and positive. [the 6'0" length allows me to fully KB waist high and smaller waves and still HAVE FUN!!!!!! Just a different perspective on life]

And you're still a youngster at 47 y/o. Take a look at the photos cycling on the KSUSA home page. The one of John Mel (blue panels on deck of KB) KBs for a living and he's 59 (sorry, John, had to confess!).

May you and your family have a wonderful Christmas and I'm sure you'll have a brilliant New Year. I'm positive that Jack will give you all the set waves at Black's this year.

Yours,
Surfhorn

[fooj]

Matt
Nice sentimental post, proof that Blacks is more than just a wave. My pops had a hip replacement last year and he isn't allowed to bend it past 90 degrees. Will you be able to bend yours further than that? I hope so. Stay wet and get well fellow half man.

[K-man]

Good post matt,You speak from the heart.
Spent 28 months of my life getting my mind/body back together after an horrendous accident.Friends and family,and your own tenacity will pull you through.It worked for me
Any, and all surf sessions are a blessing.I've still got the odd surf bitch,but hey;we're surfers and it's part our style.



cheers

[walt davidson]

HI MATT

See you in the water

Walt

[Jack Beresford]

Great post Matt - Blacks is so much more than a surf break. Reminds me of the TV show "Cheers" (where everyone knows your name). Each year it seems to get more and more crowded - but it just makes it more cool to see an old friend in the lineup. When we started surfing there we almost always brought a lunch and hung out all day. When we weren't surfing we were having rock fights or making a fire out of anything that would burn. How cool was that to have so much time with nothing to do? Too many responsibilities these days to hang out but it's still a special place to get away from reality for an hour or two.

Good luck with the surgery - we'll keep a spot in the lineup for you.

Jack

[joe]

Great post Matt. Wish you the best with your hip replacement and a speedy and full recovery. Sorry you've had to deal with all that pain. Modern medical technology is amazing and I'm sure you'll be back in no time.

Blacks is really a special place, especially if you're a kneelo. Where else can you go and find 5-10 kneelos on a regular basis (with no gathering)?

I first came to this beach around 1976 when I was first starting to kneeboard. I've had some magic times there. Camping on the beach in the 70's and waking up to crystal clear barrels and having the whole beach virtually to ourselves for hours. Memorable south swells from summers long past. Magic days with perfect waves. Huge powerful waves, incredible beatings, being totally rejected. Nudists by the thousands, rock slides, hang gliders crashing on the cliffs. Sharing the surf with dolphins, sea lions, sting rays, leopard sharks and more sea life than I've seen any where else. This place is both wierd and wonderful.

I stopped surfing in the late 80's. When I came back almost two years ago the first place I went was Blacks. Jack B. was the first to great me even before I hit the water. I was out of shape, hadn't surfed for over 15 years, starting over at Blacks in the winter. I was humbled. I was a kook. The regular kneelo crew Jack, Wino, Bill, Jason, Brad, and all the others provided encouragement and inspired me with great surfing.

Now my son Sam has been surfing with me for over a year and is improving everyday. This has made kneeboarding even more special to me. Blacks is our place now. Martin and his son Shawn have become our surf buddies. There's nothing better than watching these kids drop into an overhead set wave or pull into the barrel and then listening to the stories they tell afterwards.

During that first year back there was one person that really made me feel at home. Treated me like a best friend from the time we met. Introduced me to all the regulars in the line up. Was in the water almost every time I showed up whether the waves were big or small. Pushed me, encouraged me, and gave up waves for me. Always positive. That person was Matt Cunningham.

Matt, missed you these past few months. I hope you're back in the water and free of pain soon.

Best wishes to all for a Happy Holiday Season

[southpeakbrad]

Wow, what a great post Matt
I was out today and was thinking about you and wondering where you've been lately. Well you now have an answer for those slow walks back up the road. The others are right in hip replacements being something you can overcome. From what I understand the technology keeps progressing and outcomes keep getting better. That, with your determination, resolve, hard work, and LOVE for Blacks will ensure your successful return to the lineup. Yes, I'll share a bunch of waves with you!

I grew up surfing Huntington and Newport, lived in the City for several years, and have been blessed to surf Blacks since 1987. Matt, on most days I gaze around at the Cliffs, the water, the Cove and do feel so grateful that I get to surf there. When there's waves I'm especially grateful because it's such a quality wave. Add in all of the great kneelos who rip (you did a fine job on the list) and the great group of regulars (standups) and it adds up pretty nice. The crowds bug me sometimes but the familiar faces really help because you know there's mutual respect When all's said and done each session has at least one memorable wave that's special because of where it's ridden, or where it broke...

[matt cunningham]

What a treat. Joe I'm getting goosebumps. I liked you because you were my age!!!!! I'm not dead, just realistic. I can surf two days, the third day it too painful.

Christmas day for us adopted Jewish folks is always magical. For some reason over the last few years Bob and Chris have been out. But maybe we can get some folks together on the next big swell and dupilcate those beautful shots you posted.

Joel is willing.