Kneepad or padded deck
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Howard Lorney
- Ripper (more than 100 posts)
- Posts: 181
- Joined: Sun Jul 27, 2008 6:51 pm
- Location: New Zealand, Tauranga
Next time try that "goo -be -gone" stuff. It;s citrus base or something much safer for the liver.
board pads
Thanks mates. Mainly just wondering if needed to remove glue, and will do and then replace. This is what happens when the swell goes up and you get in a hurry. It really sucks when your pads are peeling off while you are out in the water.
Surf here in Santa Barbara has been good from rincon down, but swells missing here a lot. Time to go to SD for the weekend!
Cheers
Surf here in Santa Barbara has been good from rincon down, but swells missing here a lot. Time to go to SD for the weekend!
Cheers
big rock, class of 73
Well I just use the normal type of knee pads such as Dave Parks type with no problems.
3M have an adhesive removal thinner made for removing masking tape and contact goo, its good but do a small test piece first the danger is any thinner eating into your polyester resin.
The worlds best rubber glue is made by Rima Tiptop called SC2000 it is made for joining conveyer belts together amazing stuff it comes in a small tin (460 Mls) and a small bottle of activator, mix as per instructions then apply to both surfaces and leave dry to the touch, place a series of removable sticks on top of deck area then place pad on top of sticks so not touching deck , line pad up perfect then starting from one end remove stick letting the pad glue down and work your way from one end to the other , make sure its in the right place as it will never come off again. wear gloves and be in a well ventilated area , as with anything that really works its also trying to kill you as well.
good luck hope this helps
3M have an adhesive removal thinner made for removing masking tape and contact goo, its good but do a small test piece first the danger is any thinner eating into your polyester resin.
The worlds best rubber glue is made by Rima Tiptop called SC2000 it is made for joining conveyer belts together amazing stuff it comes in a small tin (460 Mls) and a small bottle of activator, mix as per instructions then apply to both surfaces and leave dry to the touch, place a series of removable sticks on top of deck area then place pad on top of sticks so not touching deck , line pad up perfect then starting from one end remove stick letting the pad glue down and work your way from one end to the other , make sure its in the right place as it will never come off again. wear gloves and be in a well ventilated area , as with anything that really works its also trying to kill you as well.
good luck hope this helps
cheers Timo
I've been using pads of all sorts since the early 70's. I wouldn't think of not using one, I'm in my early fifties, and my knees are in great condition. I gotta figure the pads had a lot to do with it.
It has to go on a board that hasn't been used yet. Waterproof contact cement is all I've ever used. I taper/feather the edges to the board to cut down on water flow interruption, and then rub hot wax where the edge of the pad ends to keep water from getting under it, I've never had one come up. I've put several on for friends over the years
I've also never seen a pad repair last either, 'cept maybe the one we used roofing tar on the third attempt. We shot arrows at that board a few weeks later.
My last four boards, I've had CASEY P put them on. He's down in Costa Mesa, so it might be worth a drive for you. I'd recommend him for it, and I'm pretty picky about that sort of thing. A bad pad can ruin a board. I'm picking up two new boards in the next week or so, and I'm looking him up to do those as well. He puts together a nice custom multi-layer pad that isn't too thick, and seems just right. I still feather the edges and rub the hot wax in on his too, cuz' once a pad comes up, fergitaboutit. I scuff the top surface real lightly with some 40 grit on a random-orbital sander as well, and maintain good contact with my boards in turns.
It has to go on a board that hasn't been used yet. Waterproof contact cement is all I've ever used. I taper/feather the edges to the board to cut down on water flow interruption, and then rub hot wax where the edge of the pad ends to keep water from getting under it, I've never had one come up. I've put several on for friends over the years
I've also never seen a pad repair last either, 'cept maybe the one we used roofing tar on the third attempt. We shot arrows at that board a few weeks later.
My last four boards, I've had CASEY P put them on. He's down in Costa Mesa, so it might be worth a drive for you. I'd recommend him for it, and I'm pretty picky about that sort of thing. A bad pad can ruin a board. I'm picking up two new boards in the next week or so, and I'm looking him up to do those as well. He puts together a nice custom multi-layer pad that isn't too thick, and seems just right. I still feather the edges and rub the hot wax in on his too, cuz' once a pad comes up, fergitaboutit. I scuff the top surface real lightly with some 40 grit on a random-orbital sander as well, and maintain good contact with my boards in turns.