The waves look real fun and it was a bright, beautiful morning.
I took out a 6'2" and had it in my mind just to cruise around a bit. My first wave was a left and the knee felt ok so I keep going for a few more. Pretty much just went straight off, no turns. I was sooo stoked to be in the water again. I was going crazy standing on the beach watching everyone get great waves.
It was even more encouraging to hear my bro's shouting MR ! MR! and welcoming me back to the line-up.
The acid test will be to see how it feels in a few hours from now and If I can ramp up more in future sessions.
Stoked to be back................well sort of. It's a start.

MR-