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Kneeboard for Ocean Beach, SF.

Posted: Fri Apr 24, 2009 12:32 pm
by AM_Glass
I'm selling a footboard and using the money to buy another kneeboard. I'm 6'1" 175#, 33yrs old and only surf once a week. I'm not in great shape but I can surf OB up to about 8'. I'm currently on a 5'8" Freeline quad that I like because it makes late drops and ducks under waves. I don't want anything too much bigger or smaller. What I want is a board that will get me in and out of the barrel, and something that I can hit the lip with. What board should I be looking for?

(I thought I was surfing well until I saw Don get a few waves. He was going much faster and hitting the lip much more solid than anything I ever do.)

Posted: Fri Apr 24, 2009 3:24 pm
by AM_Glass
That's a great idea.

Don, don't you think that's a great idea?

:D

Posted: Fri Apr 24, 2009 5:37 pm
by surfhorn
The jump from 5'8" to 5'10" or 6'0" will really make a difference...it did for me.

John/Freeline has a few new ones in the shop at the moment. You can also test ride some of the older boards that John keeps for rental/demos when he makes himself a new one. Most are quads about 6'0" x 22 3/4". Good way to try different boards without a heavy outlay of $.

Posted: Fri Apr 24, 2009 6:48 pm
by eqKneelo
Great suggestions Captain and Surfhorn.

Both of those boards would be much better for you... or hook up with Creediler and test drive one on his Flashpoints.
I grew up surfing OB... more length will change your life. :wink:

Posted: Fri Apr 24, 2009 7:13 pm
by Bob
I surf their quite a bit.

Narrow tail for OB (assuming it is a good day with some swell). Wide tail for Santa Cruz unless it is huge and walled up.

That is my call.

Posted: Mon Apr 27, 2009 9:07 am
by stemple
I definitely think larger is a bit better a OB for an everyday board. The problem is that OB can be very different during higher tides and can get a bit rampy. I would go slightly longer, lower volume but a bit wider. I don't think one board works more than 50% of time out there though. My all-a-rounder is 6 foot 23.75" wide, thin, swallow tail and I am 205# and 6'2". I use it all fall and spring if the surf is between 5 to 8 foot faces. I think both Bob and Don usually ride something around 5'10", 23.5" quads out there (up to slightly overhead) and they are about your size.

Posted: Mon Apr 27, 2009 11:46 am
by AM_Glass
While I'm not against a longer board, I wonder what the benefit would be? I don't have trouble catching waves and dropping in late is part of the fun, so why should I add length? I can imagine how a narrower tail would help me get into the barrel and stay in control, and maybe adding length to retain the same total volume is what is being suggested, although not explictly. I'm afraid of getting a board that is too large because I've tried a few big boards and I can't turn them, and it is no fun dropping in and going strait. :|

It seems to me like the best way to design a board that rides the barrel and is manuverable is to go small, thus, the kneeboard. I'm thinking a board with more rocker (fit the curl) and three fins (not outrun the barrel.)

Posted: Mon Apr 27, 2009 2:13 pm
by eqKneelo
Only a select number of shapers can shape a long board.

"Big boards" that don't turn are shaped by guys who normally shape short boards, and have no idea how to incorporate Vee and Rocker and Outline into a longer shape.. their big boards don't turn at speed.

Shapers who excel at longer shapes produce boards that get easier to ride the faster they go. I have a 6'9" in my quiver that rolls into a turn easier than my my 5'8" Pigfish quad. It's a beautiful thing.

Get in touch with Don or Creediler... once you get some length you'll see the possibilities are endless.

Posted: Mon Apr 27, 2009 10:11 pm
by Scott
Shapers who excel at longer shapes produce boards that get easier to ride the faster they go. I have a 6'9" in my quiver that rolls into a turn easier than my my 5'8" Pigfish quad.
Well said, EQ. I was impressed again at the World Contest how well Baden Smith can surf his large board (was it something like 6'8"?) in small surf. But it's a Flashpoint, shaped by a true Master:

album_showpage.php?pic_id=20377

Posted: Tue Apr 28, 2009 1:23 am
by hart
Scott wrote:
Shapers who excel at longer shapes produce boards that get easier to ride the faster they go. I have a 6'9" in my quiver that rolls into a turn easier than my my 5'8" Pigfish quad.
Well said, EQ. I was impressed again at the World Contest how well Baden Smith can surf his large board (was it something like 6'8"?) in small surf.
But it's a Flashpoint, shaped by a true Master:
Hey Scott :D

Baden's boards are shaped by standup Stuart Pontin from North Coast NSW :!:

Pontin (who also sponsored the event) has shaped for Baden for many years 8) inc Santa Cruz 07 and his World Title in Tahiti 04

Kinda
on topic..Farrer was surfing his 5'9" throughout NZ :idea: but as far as I can tell..NZ did not equate to the Ocean Beach I have seen :arrow:

regards from OZ

hart

Posted: Tue Apr 28, 2009 9:34 pm
by Scott
Hart, :oops: thanks for the correction. Hats of to Stuart Pontin for his long shapes that work so well.

Posted: Wed Apr 29, 2009 9:08 pm
by Jimbo
I guess I agree with the Capt - I bought one of Don's and it is just ridiculous!

boards that go at OB

Posted: Thu Apr 30, 2009 9:08 am
by sf_firestarter
I'm similar size and weight at 6'1" and 180 and surf 2-15ft OB on one board. 5'11" x 22 1/2 x 2 1/2 with a rounded pin. I think it suits OB very well as an all-rounder. If I was to have multiple boards I would add a 5'9-10 for under 6ft and 6'1" for over 12ft.