Take off?

Malaga · Post by **Malaga** » Sun Aug 14, 2005 5:09 am

Hello, this wave can become the take off by a Kneeboard or it is only for bodyboard?

I am going to go soon there

wino · Post by **wino** » Sun Aug 14, 2005 6:03 am

Malaga, that wave looks like it was made for kneeboarding.

gunkie · Post by **gunkie** » Sun Aug 14, 2005 6:17 am

Why is he taking off on the shoulder?

Steven Lewis · Post by **Steven Lewis** » Sun Aug 14, 2005 9:01 am

I would like to see some differnet views from this spot, It looks fun the drops are a rush and theres a spot in laguna when a good south hits OAK st that sucks out like this but much bigger, But go for it.
Steve

Malaga · Post by **Malaga** » Sun Aug 14, 2005 2:26 pm

other fhotography the same spot

I think I can not doing Kneeboarding here, is a difficult wave for my, even if i will use fins,Thank you for you answers

Steven Lewis · Post by **Steven Lewis** » Sun Aug 14, 2005 2:37 pm

!!!!!!! I like it !!!!! I would try this spot what a rush.

Thanks for posting more photos.

wino · Post by **wino** » Sun Aug 14, 2005 2:44 pm

At the foot of Palomar St. in La Jolla is a carbon copy of that wave. It used to be owned by Kneelo's. Now it's crowded w/ aggro spongers

Luckly as groms we got to wittness several legends in their prime. We also got pleanty of barrels on our own out there.

Malaga, Kneeboards were developed to ride the exact type of wave your posting here.

Bud · Post by **Bud** » Sun Aug 14, 2005 3:38 pm

Yes ! This is a kneeboard surfing wave.

Here's an example of how it's done........

Steve Lis, Big Rock La Jolla California, Early 70's.

Riding a board like one of these........

album_showpage.php?pic_id=4554

Malaga · Post by **Malaga** » Sun Aug 14, 2005 4:25 pm

It is true, both waves are similar
Big rock: http://www.wannasurf.com/spot/North_Ame ... index.html

Caprino: http://www.wannasurf.com/spot/Europe/Sp ... index.html

surfhorn · Post by **surfhorn** » Tue Aug 16, 2005 7:02 am

That is exactly a kneeboarding wave. Nothing like clicking your fins on the reef as you pull in to barrel time!

Bud · Post by **Bud** » Tue Aug 16, 2005 11:16 am

How shallow is it when your 5" deep keel fins drag on the reef?

The end of of the life of my (then 1974) "magic" board started when this happened while surfing Big Rock one early October morning with the tide a bit too low.

I'd paddled out in the gray of predawn to 4-5' dredgers groomed by stiff offshore winds. Nobody out yet.

After about 40 minutes and 5 rides, I pushed myself a bit deeper where the little bit of crumble, at the top of the wave, allows for that extra instant of accelleration behind the ledge. It was the first wave of a set. (In retrospect I should have let this one go to put some water on the reef.)

Made the drop, set an edge then stopped dead as the beast heaved over.
Dove through the face, swam out the back, broke surface to catch a breath, then got sucked back over.
Some how I managed a soft landing, feet first. (I think the soup bouncing back up cushioned the impact.)

When I surfaced again, the first thing I saw was my favorite board, back lit in in the red / gold rays of first light, spinning on axsis, falling from the sky............... only to hit the reef on one of the swallow tail tips.

surfhorn · Post by **surfhorn** » Tue Aug 16, 2005 12:02 pm

I only time I surfed Big Rock was in 1972 on my way back from 3 weeks in Baja. A fun wave.

The reason Big Rock was an easily surfed wave can be attributed to the days I spent surfing Quatro Casas. I surfed the main right at Casas and waited for tide and swell to line up and then kicked out to the point and surfed the LEFT all by myself. It is a HUGE horseshoe wave which standups didn't have a chance of making. I never saw anyone else out there the times I stopped at that spot.

wino · Post by **wino** » Tue Aug 16, 2005 1:34 pm

Martin, the reason a lot of us don't surf the reefs in LJ so much is the time committment required to get them good. When your young you have the time to wait for the tides, wind, etc.. to come together for those places to happen. Now with work and family respnsibilities I have to hit it when and where I can. For me that means a cretain beach break not too far from my home and office.
That being said I surfed Big Rock a few weeks back and had a great time. Even saw a few familiar faces from the old days.

toofast3 · Post by **toofast3** » Tue Aug 16, 2005 6:45 pm

Martin... Any time you want to surf bigrock. count me in!!!! I`m all for a take over

KAVA · Post by **KAVA** » Tue Aug 16, 2005 7:27 pm

looking foreward to a take-over at RJ's/brookhurst jetty this saturday at the OC gathering

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