started last wednesday, carried over to the weekend. It's been several days of dawn patrols and some outstanding waves. This has been the first decent swell since i got the new board and thanks to Splashy (he's given me a set of small fins for the trailers as a trial) the first chance i've had to really see what the quad set up does relative to the twin fin set up I've ridden for yonks. verdict great at this size but in smaller waves I'll go back to the twin set up and ride on the edge of control. The quad set up drives hard in this size and hangs me up higher on the face than I was used to with the twin.
I'm addicted to Tea Tree.
Thursday dawn with so much water coming past the point it was an intense effort to stay on the spot. Monsters you could read a book on before you took a bottom turn.
Friday dawn I was supposed to hook up with a kneelo mate from Brisbane who said he'd pick me up at 5.30 am but when I said I'd have to go to work later and I'd meet him in the carpark at nationals he turned his alarm off ( 4am to make that rendevous) and came up later in the day to his chagrin as he missed the best of the tide....
I came out of the water about 8.30 with the impression that I'd had some of the best waves of my life. Seriously late drops, getting barrelled screaming or rather laughing and yahooing down the point.
Saturday everywhere was working the open beaches were going off 6'+ the points had cleaned up and so we my son & I hit TT. He's just up from Tassie ( stand-up, the kneelo gene's recessive, tho' he does ride on the knees when the spirit takes him) It had to be one of the best vibed sessions I've had there, no crowds cos' they were spread from Noosa to Byron, all going off!:lol:
The brisbane connection, Mark, said OK I'm coming up tomorrow.......5.30 pick up.
The swell had dropped a fair bit BUT it was classic, the crowds were somewhere else, we paddled out, after the cliff climb and sat off the far point laughing taking ridiculous drops and clean barrelling waves.
After a while we were joined by Lowrider. I saw him get some insane tubes, surfing this thing that looks like a skinned tiger.
A little while after that, this other Kneelo arrives paddles out to where we were taking off and proceeds to take off on some screamers, hanging tight to the curl, carving with authority. The late arrival turns out to be Ian Cameron, we're talking and carrying on when I realise the last time I'd surfed with him was 30 years ago, there are reasons why I couldn't remember him first off, it was the 70's
It was when we both were competition fiends. Mind you we've both changed a bit except for our love of surfing. Ian reckons he's picky about what he surfs, guess i'm just a surf slut...
So by now there's 4 kneelos all charging the point taking anything we want giving crumbs to the standup crew.
It's been a far while since I've been in the water with a mob of kneelos, that hadn't been arranged, surfing good waves and dominating a break.
After the tide started to compromise the outer wave and we were stuffed and badly in need of food and caffeine, we came in. Stood on the shore and debated whether or not we should go back out aas they were still soming in round the bay, just not from behind the point. the brunch won, must be getting old:shock:
A rare day.
I hope the rest of you guys on the sunny coast had as good a time as we all did.
