north shore 08

[barry]

thought I would start a topic were the folks who were there
can share some of their surfing experiences.
so hopefully we will hear from Bill L., Jamie McHuge, Big Fred, Scott Wessling,
Mike (smokin rock). Steeno, Paulywog, Syd, Dave S., Geo, and anyone else who feels like sharin

Happy Reading,
Barry

[barry]

I can honestly say that...
there were Peaks and there were Valleys for me.
the most challenging session for me came on monday morning
the third day there....
I paddled out at backyards it was 6-8 (Hawaiian) and sometimes bigger Bill had already caught a couple when I made it out.
I was consistently caught inside or in the wrong spot..
got sic of takin em on the head so I finally got 1 in and upsized my stick. I figured I was gonna just sit out the back and catch a few bombs
So once I made it back out and was sitting a good 30 yards out past everyone else just waitin then guess what...????
a mackin set came and I had about 8 waves come and break right in front of me boy was i pissed, worn out, frustrated etc...
so after I finally made it back to the outside, I am just trying to get my wind back and..... bam it happened again
what a shocker
a tiring 3 hour paddle session

[Mike Fernandez]

Damn Barry that sucks, but don't sweat it bro, everyone has those weird days every now and then. Trust me, I feel your frustration. At least Steen got some killer photo's of you!

[barry]

Its funny how things can change so drastically overnight or even in just a few moments some times...
so after a very shocking monday when it seemed I could do nothing right..
I had another go on tuesday and it seemed I could do no wrong??
maybe it was just that after living through that shocker,
I was more relaxed and things just flowed better for me.
well tues was much better for me. I caught heaps of really fun waves,
Bill, Jamie, Fred and I were all having a great time.
I saw Fred get a Great tube on his second wave!
Bill was scoring long rights and lefts.
Jamie was catching some freight train lefts.
We all got shacked...!!!! what a Great Time We Shared..!!!!
It was such a Blast, great weather, mellow crowd, lots of good solid waves,
being surrounded by friends, strangers, and smiles, you could just feel
the Spirit of Aloha radiating throughout the entire line up
It was a session I will always remember
Thanks,
Barry

[Jimbo]

Barry - thanks for the updates. Sorry for your bad day but most of us mortals did not think you guys ever have those days. Kinda refreshing (since you survived and all) to know it is not just me (or us).

[barry]

too funny Jimbo,
no worries man I think its good for us all to
have those kinds of experiences some times.
helps to keep us humble,
also re-enforces the fact that life is a learning and growing process

MikeF.
you do Great work, keep sharing your Stoke Bro
lots more stories to come.
Peace,
barry

[albert]

I was consistently caught inside or in the wrong spot..

Sounds like most of my sessions!!

Actually, I had a similar experience here on New Years Eve... Only difference was it wasnt even good surf...

[jamie]

I arrived into Hawaii, two days before Barry, Fred and Bill.
I was travelling with my partner Bronwen and two kids aged 4 and 3, who luckily for us slept most of the 10 hour flight from Sydney. Frequent flyer points delivered the four of us into Honolulu, the rental car company came thru with a car with racks already fitted so the kids didnt have my boards squashing there heads in the back, and then we lucked into a night in a rental house right there at Backyards - without a booking!
Late that afternoon after some tactical advice from Buddy i walk around towards Velzyland and paddle out in the channel to get out to 2nd reef at Backyards, its big enough that theres only one guy out
There are lots of skis sitting in the channel and out beyond 2nd reef towing guys mainly into the rights. I find a spot that puts me into one of the biggest waves that I will catch during the next 9 days, its my first wave of the trip! I ride my luck for 4 waves in total and head in when the 4th wave shuts down not long after take off.
Buddy puts it into perspective when he tells me i did well get away with what was a pretty sketchy surf unscathed.
I am buzzing - 6 hours sleep in about 60 hrs, a place for the family to stay, Bill Lerner's words flashing before my eyes "this trips going to be fun!"

So that was day one of nine

[Scott]

Paul Wuslich and myself may be the only two kneelos who traveled to the North Shore and still remain. I just arrived about 5 days ago: Paul has been here for a few weeks. He's really got the larger surf dialed in, as the posts of his waves at Sunset show.

Yesterday was the best waves of the trip thus far. Paul and I surfed Daystar in beautiful morning glass, light offshores, and 8-12' foot faces, and a few bigger. The rights were the best waves. The most beautiful blue water you've ever seen. About 20 guys eventually sharing the lineup with a good vibe. Both Paul and I got at least one outside bomb; mine may end up being the biggest wave of my trip, pushing 15' on the face. The drop was sooooo long, with a bunch of guys hooting me into the takeoff (like I said, a good vibe), then the long fast wall. Nice to have a 6' 3" Blast round pin that handles the size so effortlessly and with such built in speed.

I also shared a great morning with Barry and Fred at Backyards just a few hours before both of them had to catch their flight home. 4 - 8' foot faces, same glass with light offshore conditions. Barry and Fred have the place dialed and I learned as much as I could from them. We eventually settled in on the rights and had some steep, fast waves. And warm water!!

I was impressed again by the age of excellent surfers on the North Shore, especially surfing with me yesterday at Daystar. A bunch of guys in their fifties and sixties, gray hair and all, really charging and surfing well. They really keep at their surfing here in serious waves until "long in the tooth", and it's inspiring to watch. I'll always remember seeing "Surfing For Life" (a documentary on aging and surfing) and watching Fred Van Dyke surfing very sizable Sunset in his late sixties. Gives us all hope if we take care of our bodies and keep our surfing edge.

I've been driving up from Honolulu each day, but now my wife and I will stay at a place next to Buddy's for a few days. Backyards and Sunset will be just a few yards away with building swell tonight and tomorrow!

[Smokin Rock]

mine is a pretty easy story to tell. i worked all nite on the 12th. got off work and drove to the airport. got to HNL and rented a car. drove to Buddy's. met the crew and even though tired....was fired up enough for a surf. Barry said "let's go" so we paddled out and we got some good ones until i started cramping up. i went in while Barry stayed out and went to Malaekahana to get a long nites sleep to catch up. the next day i got the flu and could'nt surf anymore. spent the rest of the trip on shore.
4 days.......less than 2 hours in the water. i did get to meet Steen and Fred for the first time so that was really cool and even got to go clothes shopping with the great Bill Lerner but it was a lot of fever and chills for the most part. the North Shore does'nt love me anymore.

[Mike Fernandez]

Bummer Mike. If I can make a suggestion for the cramps, here on the cold coast it's easy to get cramps just from the cold temps. Try a banana and 16oz. of Gatorade before you surf. Trust me it works! My calfs never cramp up anymore.

[Smokin Rock]

Mike,
i ate a whole tub of poi, 3 bananas and tons of water before i went out. it's just not too healthy to stay up 30+ hours and surf.
i thought you were going to suggest Midol

[Mike Fernandez]

Oh duuude, it must have been the poi

[Big Fred]

well everybody just had time to put my two cents on this trip. i just dont know where to start, should I start at the time at Myli Point, or at Sunset, or at Backyards? Had some good experiences at all places and some really good waves. Waves that scared the crap out of me, put it this way, I seen God and King Neptune the same day at a few of these places, but the place that stood out the most was at Myli Point. Took off on a wave and dropped in backdoor, did my bottom turn and a big ol' coral head just came out of the water and ripped my fins off my board, and next thing I know I'm standing in ankle deep water with a six foot wall of white wash coming at me and I'm laughing my ass of because I know I'm gonna get my ass worked, and I know George has this all on film! I look to where I could get off the reef and there was a turtle just looking at me trying to guide me to open water, and as I found my way to open water I jumped in like two feet away and the turtle never moved, like he was my guide. As I popped my head up after I jumped in he swam away and kept looking at me, it was the weirdest thing that I've ever seen in my life and I know what my next tattoo is gonna be, of a turtle staring right back at me. I'll remember this for the rest of my life.

[Mike Fernandez]

WOW Fred Incredible story, you truly had a guardian angel watching you dude. Thanks for sharing.