How is the surf so far this year in your part of the world ?

[crox]

Surfed perfect 3 - 5 feet barrels today - just Rich Smith & myself for three hours - wedging offshore peaks - more good surf on the way - just noticed it's 38.4 feet & still building off of southern Ireland - will be here tomorrow!

[Ben B.]

You Queenslanders going to hog all that CYCLONE swell,can we have some ............................PLEEEASE!

[K-man]

Flat as a board up this side for two days.Got the fever yesterday and,and spent the day at OB.Real small[sloat]but I had the right board and had a great time .Perfect conditions.Ran into keating,who I hadn't seen for many moons,and a few other friends that are always fun to be around.
Never seen a knee to shoulder high wave I didn't like.


K

[Jon Manss]

K man you just missed Barry ,Don and Bob surfing Rievera that morning I was walking on the beach. Man that wind is cold. Jon

[K-man]

5-4-3 with hood-7mil booties.......
Left there at about 2-30 and the middle was looking like fun at the lower tide.Might be a small increase in swell by saturday,weather permitting,I'll zip over.

[SFKneelo]

I'm positioning for a Sunday DP... maybe 6:45?

Not that we live in snow... but DANG! It took a long, long time to get the ice off the car windows this AM. My car thermometer was reading 34F at 7AM.

[stemple]

I surfed OB wednesday night from 4:00 pm to dark. Really nice sunset with shoulder high sets and an ocasional head high dying swell and short 10 sec period. It was fun but cold. It took about an hour for my hands to fully warm back up. I may follow bob's lead and invest in a pair of gloves soon, it is cheaper than buying a condo in Hawaii.

Sunday is a possibility but its dam cold and swell could be on the small side. I only have a 4/3. Motivation is sometimes difficult to come by that early at this time of year. I may work so I can free up some time for the swell described below.

Good news is swell might be on the way. Forecast is for 8 ft @ 20 secs by wendnesday next week, lasting into weekend. Great basin high is supposed to set up, off shores could crank up. Some forecasters say could be swell of the year.

[Smokin Rock]

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[Smokin Rock]

Headwax,
that was esoteric to say the least. much like the "hawaiian wave scale".

[Beeline2.0]

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[stemple]

Personally I don't get all the BS that goes into calling the wave size. Hey that wave Bud is on is easily a ten foot foot plus face maybe more. In my book that makes it a ten foot plus wave, period. Trough to crest its pretty simple really.

By undersizing the wave face, it seems to me its all about ego, bravado, and understatement. I don't get it. Call a spade a spade.

Wave face height does not equate with a consistent slope to swell height. Swell period makes a big difference for wave face height. a 5'@20 sec wave face will be almost twice as big as 5'@10 sec.

[Smokin Rock]

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