I would agree with sharkbait, OB has been very good and consistent this year. The best since I have been surfing it which is about 3 to 4 seasons.
Today looks like more of the same but a bit overcast and cool. I am bailing from work soon to go get some.
Been looking at the pics that Bud has posted from Hawaii. Looks sweet and powerful. Can't wait, but must admit I have a few butterflies thinking about it. Next week at this time hopefully I will be somewhere over Pacific and on my way.
Dear SB
That wasn't me yesterday. I like Bud's boards, but ride Parkes. A meeting is inevitable! Looking forward to it.
Today's report...
DP at mid-beach. Glassy, glassy, glassy. Rip wasn't too bad. Surf was OH+, breaking every so often on the outside. It wasn't too crowded. The waves were playful... at least most of them.
After surfing more than I should of, I paddled out for one more just to get a set on the head which resulted in the snapping of my 'old faithful' leash. It was originally 8' and thick.
There was another kneelo South of me on a green board. I did my best to kook it for him.
Hey SFKneelo,
Yeah that was me! I saw you too!
You were going right.
I was going left.
Danny Hess (wooden board builder extrordinaire) told me he saw a kneeboarder "ripping"- that was you, bub!
I had the EXACT same thing happen last week with my attempt at "one last wave". Suprise outsider, that awful tug/release and long, cold swim. Wave Hog's just desserts?
I'll be somewhere dp Saturday...hopefully see you then!
Today's Report:
Well, it's third-person. Winds at 5AM were calm, then reported to be W9. I bowed out thinking that the winds were already picking up.
I missed it. It wasn't as good as yesterday, but plenty surfable. I did the stretch several times with the family in route to other things. At 3PM, it was still possible... and there were takers. Folks were flying kites. NW winds are building...
SB,
Don talks with Danny fairly often. I'm very impressed with Danny's shaping skills. It would be great to post some pix of his fish. He takes those out in very large surf and bags plenty. Anyhow, big props to all the craftsmen that rip! Did you get out?
I did go out. It was grueling.
DP, OB was head high, still good shape but windy. Unappealing after the last few days weeks months of blimp-botherin' offshore winds. We ended up surfing three times:
A secret right point 4 miles north of Santa Cruz. Fun until an orange-faced drunken ape mis-managed his anger on my friend. We got the tip to bail to
A beautiful beach surrounded by fields of vibrant yellow wild mustard. Waves were violent twisting nautiluses that I could barely make (rode one on my belly), and my standup pal couldn't.
He needed more, which we got at
The Lane. More people, more cold (and the dreaded clammy wetsuit torture). Actually got some 4 foot waves, and have you ever noticed that the vibe can be friendly there even with 40 surfers out? It really only takes one orange-faced drunken ape to spoil the fun.
Today my 42 year old bones say "Enough!" Great week. Did I hear there was MORE coming?
"The north Pacific has entered an extremely strong winter mode. The center of the complex activity is roughly along the longitudes of Hawaii, bringing the storms close to the islands, resulting in potential for giant surf. Such a pattern happens in March on about 5-10 year turnarounds. The years 1974 and 1984 had 4 days in the giant category, meaning extensive outer reef surf and breakers between half way to fully across the outside of Waimea bay. The years 1983 and 2000 had 3 giant days in March. Most years have none."
SW winds are expected. Are there still gatheringers around?
The swell is supposed be big along the CA coast as well. For us Nor Cal folks we just hope for light winds. This time of year the NWesterlies typically begin to whip up causing sloppy on shore conditions. This swell is suppose to be a more westerly angle which isn't the best for OB but Ventura/SB love that angle. My monday morning task is to try like crazy to arrange some meetings, field vists in SB/Ventura next week say around thursday .
I have always wanted to score El Cap good and this swell might just do it. Also the video of SB harbor mouth on a solid west that I have seen is amazing!
I just got back from a week long camping trip at Jalama, and the surf was HUGE. There were two tow in teams down at Tarantulas, but that was it. We sat there the whole week without being able to paddle out. A quick denial by my wife prevented an excursion to the northern Ranch points, which I am sure were going off. However, upon driving down to El Cap, I found it with howling onshores and about waist high. Back up the road to camp and it was 3x overhead and side/offshore. Weird. When we got back, all I heard about was how great the Cliffs were. This week should be better, from what "they" say.
Syd - if you are in SB you may want to think about Ventura Overhead if it is a big west. Maybe Pitas Point as well - it really fires. Harbor mouth is insane - make the take of and then just barrel for as long as you can hang in. El Cap is such a crap shoot but well worth it if you score. Good luck!!!
If all goes to plan wednesday afternoon meetings, evening surf, thursday meetings mid day but the mornings and evenings are free. Friday am, I have to be SLO then maybe hit a break on the way back to the bay area. Nothing like mixing business and pleasure
On thursday NOAA is calling for 6 to 7 feet at El Cap but Rincon is predicted to go 10' plus.
Geez I forgot. Big West swell go to Hammond's - it will be insane! hey - what do you think would happen if I switched the small fins to the front and the big fins to the back on the Parkes?