Is Wave Chop the Kneeboarders Last Enemy???

dogtown · Post by **dogtown** » Tue Jun 05, 2007 3:27 am

Chopped up wave faces are about the only condition I dont particually like to kneeboard in,with modern board shapes,rocker line,fin placement etc all other conditions from onshore sludge to dredging pits, fun can be had.
Just like to get peoples thoughts on possible board shape,technology (maybe some kind of hydro-foil system)to over come this problem...

skansand · Post by **skansand** » Tue Jun 05, 2007 10:46 am

watch headwaxs video (the less tripppy one)..... dudes ripping the slop with his 6'1 14 mil single-concave tri-fin....at least i think thats what hes riding.......

Beeline2.0 · Post by **Beeline2.0** » Tue Jun 05, 2007 11:31 am

Steeno · Post by **Steeno** » Tue Jun 05, 2007 3:11 pm

always found a board with more foam will smash through bumps alot easier than a board with low volume

Scott · Post by **Scott** » Tue Jun 05, 2007 4:34 pm

Dogtown is asking a good question, particularly when considering the upper limits of kneeriding big waves. My experience is about 15' faces, even on days that aren't considered "bumpy" the speed of the board over any uneveness on the face of big waves creates a lot of instability. Over 20', well there are only a few who will even give that a go--it's really sketchy. Over 25' faces, even if a kneelo can get his (or her!) board into the wave, it's pretty much out of the question to negotiate the bouncing.

A mere 6" of chop becomes the giant-killer. Could any board design really help overcome this while riding on knees, unable to absorb the bouncing?

Johnboy Walton · Post by **Johnboy Walton** » Tue Jun 05, 2007 4:38 pm

I've found thicker boards with simpler bottom curves (ie. no channels, concave etc) have worked better for me in bumpy/choppy waves. I've also found lower rails (not sure of correct terminology) in the front third-half of a board don't work for me in these conditions either.

when I was was sub-55kgs (not sure what that is in lbs) I had problems in choppy surf over 3-4ft. this in not a problem now as I'm packing a few extra kegs.

Steeno · Post by **Steeno** » Tue Jun 05, 2007 7:43 pm

that exactly right Johnno.....

dogtown · Post by **dogtown** » Wed Jun 06, 2007 12:16 am

Yeah Scott,I was refering to larger faced waves

,also Im not saying these waves are unrideable,its just the control factor takes a dive and for me bouncing around off chop ,just aint fun..
Maybe a longer narrower board 7"x 23.

Kauaikneelo · Post by **Kauaikneelo** » Wed Jun 06, 2007 1:38 pm

Handles?

Steeno · Post by **Steeno** » Wed Jun 06, 2007 3:30 pm

heavier

red · Post by **red** » Wed Jun 06, 2007 6:45 pm

Vee/roll up front, softer rails ameliorate chop effects.
Thicker, longer, stiffer board no problems - smooths the ride.

Flat rocker, down rails, wide tails, short wide boards make chop worse. I remember skipping like a (out of control) loon down some heavy Outer Kom peaks in the 80's on those 5'8"s I used to surf. lot of air time!

Dogtown, get a 7'0 hull bottom and you will be able to have a ball in big bumpy Wooly beachies. Uncrowded, too!

dogtown · Post by **dogtown** » Wed Jun 06, 2007 7:50 pm

Thanks guys,Red thats in line with what I was thinking,7 ft just seems so long to me

,but then again not to long ago so did 6 ft

.I guess it gets back to my original post ,having the correct board to optimize the conditions at hand .Mmmm,a new board in the quiver

Hey Red,I was thinking pin tail

Winter waves, big Surfies point,Express, Summerlands etc...

W.G. Facenda · Post by **W.G. Facenda** » Wed Jun 06, 2007 9:23 pm

mMght want to rethink those 25 inch boards too.Slap,Slap ,slap.

bdwqld · Post by **bdwqld** » Wed Jun 06, 2007 9:23 pm

I have a 5'7" x 23.5" fish with lots of rocker, single concave under the nose become double concave under the knees, that exits out through the double flyers. It is a typical thruster setup with large galsses in front fins and a smaller FCS down back. The board has chined rails, it is a little bit like one of Neil Lukes freaks except it has a wider swallow tail and is shorter. This board does not like chop. Anything bigger than 4 foot with a bit of chop it gets very skitterish. Fun to ride but I have come unstuck in very inconvenient places. My next board will be a little longer say 5'10" x 23" a little less rocker and have deeper concaves to help settle it down when it gets choppy (I hope).

red · Post by **red** » Thu Jun 07, 2007 11:37 pm

mate, I have a board in that size range you can try - it makes big onshore wooly quite fun. Especially when the surfers are scratching in the midbreak and you come flying past from an outside bomb. Gets you out of trouble quick when you see the sets coming. It'll definitely do EP, too.

Oh yes, there's also a 6'6" Quorra of mine in Island Surf Shop you can take for a run. Loads of drive and paddle.

Kneeboard Surfing USA Community Forum

Is Wave Chop the Kneeboarders Last Enemy???

Is Wave Chop the Kneeboarders Last Enemy???

chop

Chops no fun