As everyone knows, the whole state has been going off!
Surfed unreal Rj's on Sunday. A-framing 6-8ft faces with the offshores blowing tubes and riders into the open.
Yesterday morning, 3-5ft Prospect st. Newport. Smoking tubes everywhere. I saw my brother, Danny get the best tube ride of his life! The pack was hooting as he pulled into a chamber and drove through the tube completley non visible from the front then getting spit out with speed at the end. I was inside on his wave.
Yesterday late afternoon, evening. Bigger, meaner, 6-8ft +. Grinding tubes. All sunny, smoking hard offshores. Went out at Beach Blvd. and rode lefts to Huntington st. I was with Jim Richardson. We witnessed each other riding in the tube over and over.
I can't, and don't want to get the feeling and view of riding in the tube out of my head.
Maybe more today. IT's all on!