Surf Report 2008

gene west · Post by **gene west** » Sat Jan 19, 2008 10:47 pm

killer surf here in the PEOPLE"S REPUBLIC for the past week...last Sat. mackin' rock waves-8'+ then took the zodiac out to the Federal Lands..8-10' screamin rights some wrappin' all the way to shipwrecks and bowling balls, about 1/2 mile...til the fog rolled in, paddled around for almost half an hour, fog so thick, couldn't find the boat...climbed aboard,strapped t-he sticks and barely made the shoulder on a HUGE clean up set thick fog and in the dark...Nobody out during the football game @ Catbox 6' 100 yard long walls/tubes...Shaun and Martin Murph in the line-up with us locals-shreddin'...pink gash, double D's, hezbollah, liberate palestine, every spot doin' it's thing all week long, had to send some spongers to the beach, apparently they thought they could bring their toy's( Morey, rot in hell) out to our spot-WRONG!!!!Shaun, killer tube brah!!!

Mike Fernandez · Post by **Mike Fernandez** » Sun Jan 20, 2008 8:10 am

Gene, that's pretty cool you went out on a Zodiac!

stemple · Post by **stemple** » Sun Jan 20, 2008 9:28 am

SF and Don,

Missed you guys. I paddled out with the hordes later that morning fun waves got plenty. The current kept most people scrambling. Waves were a bit walled but every now and then a set peeled across the bar. Sounds like it was decent at high tide. Maybe next time.

SFKneelo · Post by **SFKneelo** » Sun Jan 20, 2008 9:32 am

Hey Syd,

Was hoping the chatter the night before would draw some with us... still looked fun when we left. Don still hasn't posted pix... He said he has a nice hemotoma upside the head from his board.

Creediler!

I see you there... no go! Looks like the conditions have changed for the worse...

Bring on the football!

Let's look ahead. Next week could be a repeat of the good stuff!

ScottMac · Post by **ScottMac** » Sun Jan 20, 2008 12:48 pm

Nov · Post by **Nov** » Mon Jan 21, 2008 5:29 am

It was terrible here today. It was 4ft howling onshore and incredibly messy. I went out Warriewood on the lefts in the corner. I threw a couple of barrel rolls in the close out and told the bodyboarders doing drop knee to get kneeboards. In other words, I made the most of it.

eqKneelo · Post by **eqKneelo** » Mon Jan 21, 2008 8:19 am

Nov wrote:It was terrible here today. It was 4ft howling onshore and incredibly messy. I went out Warriewood on the lefts in the corner. I threw a couple of barrel rolls in the close out and told the bodyboarders doing drop knee to get kneeboards. In other words, I made the most of it.

Good on'ya.

K-man · Post by **K-man** » Tue Jan 22, 2008 5:54 pm

Got a feeling the city was breaking today....Opted to stick around for the ebb.State beach is starting to come alive.Most of the sand is out there,and appears to be shaping the bars.Plenty of rips along the beach..Chest to shoulder,OS,went pretty good for about two hrs,small,very clean,and fast,Nice small performance waves.
Heading for SC tomorrow.Bring a board to John M who is kind enough to drive it to the contest...[for jeff].Hopefully find a few fun ones somewhere
in the area.

cheers

Eric Carson · Post by **Eric Carson** » Tue Jan 22, 2008 7:10 pm

I met up with M-O-W- last week at a place called Spanish House and we caught some fun waves together. Today I wore a full suit for the first time in a couple of years and it felt great-really!! Buoy's 8' @ 8 seconds this morning with a light onshore giving it some texture.

Scott · Post by **Scott** » Tue Jan 22, 2008 9:19 pm

Yesterday (Monday) was really memorable. 2' - 4' 4 Mile with sideshore/onshore winds in an approaching storm. No one out. Looked fun to me; there's lots to be learned sometimes in surfing those waves...plus, I drove an hour to reach the coast.

One hour into the session another guy joins me, as does a serious rain storm, the kind that totally soaks you even when you have only a quick sprint from your car into the supermarket. But the waves look surreal coming in through the mist coming off the water. Then the rain turns to hail. I've never been out in hail! Glad I had my hood to pull up over my head 'cause it was starting to hurt even my thick, neanderthal head. Little pieces of ice floating all around me as the droplets explode the water up in these little mini-geyers.

And then it was gone, the skies cleared, the wind went dead calm, even off-shore. The waves got really clean and fun, and I was scrambling everywhere to try to grab them. Three other happy guys paddled out, no one getting in the other's way.

30 minutes later the on-shore wind fired back up with a vengence and blew the place all to heck. The skies turned and evil black and the temperature dropped about 10 degrees to the low 40's. I paddled in and enjoyed the long walk to my car, a big smile on my face, in the rain.

ScottMac · Post by **ScottMac** » Tue Jan 22, 2008 9:40 pm

WaterLogged · Post by **WaterLogged** » Wed Jan 23, 2008 9:21 pm

Today was pretty clean and freezing cold out, with offshores blowing in my face. I had a nice windburn when I was done, in the shape of a square from what was peeking out from my hood.

It was thigh to waist, although the person I passed on the boardwalk told me there was "shoulder high barrels"...I guess I missed them.

I was out for an hour, riding some mushburgers to shore, on my knees with my big a$$ in the air. I am so grateful it's winter and NO ONE was around to see that spectacle.

Still managing to dump myself every now and then, I'm pushing too hard on the rails for turning, and one time I pearled the nose. Oooof! Not fun when the water is 43 and the air temp is 28. I must be crazy. I think when the water gets into the 30s, I am going to pack it in, because I am getting too old for this. But I say that every year.

Mike Fernandez · Post by **Mike Fernandez** » Wed Jan 23, 2008 9:31 pm

WL, I have learned to look forward to the winters here. Less crowds, and my wetsuits are superb! I doubt the water would get under 41f in the ocean. Haven't seen it yet anyway.
I keep checking the report, and it's going to be LAKE flat this weekend

It's been two weeks, I need some waves!

WaterLogged · Post by **WaterLogged** » Thu Jan 24, 2008 9:14 am

Mike Fernandez wrote:WL, I have learned to look forward to the winters here. Less crowds, and my wetsuits are superb! I doubt the water would get under 41f in the ocean. Haven't seen it yet anyway.
I keep checking the report, and it's going to be LAKE flat this weekend It's been two weeks, I need some waves!

A few times over the past 15 years we've dipped into the 36-38 zone, but that was when we actually had vey cold winters, with a lot of snow and freezing temps. It really doesn't happen anymore, because the temps tend to hover in the 20s and 30s, even 40s for January and February.

The water is warm for a La Nina cycle. I wonder what the SST will be like for the rest of the year?

I also hope that this chronic flatness is not an indicator of what the rest of the year will bring. I mean, we're not even getting a few days of knee high swell. It's just nothing. Even the SUMMER was better than this. I could count on at least 3 days of small swell per week, even with crappy winds. This is just plain sad.

randiego · Post by **randiego** » Thu Jan 24, 2008 12:39 pm

Surfed SD's favorite beachbreak this morning - me and 3 other guys. All BMC. It was cold, the cold wind was howling offshore, and mid-session the cold rain started. Did I mention it was COLD?

The waves were clean, but weak and inconsistent - not enough to keep you warm from paddling around...

I know that sounds silly to you right-coasters.

But, beautiful conditions. Gorgeous wall of clouds just offshore - with a wall of rain out there - nice rainbow to the north, and huge pack of dolphins came through riding the waves in a group. Great day to be alive and I was really glad I made the effort.

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Surf Report 2008

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