just caught up on this thread, mac was down all week....
the night before that BIG EPIC HB day.....Downright the scariest night sesh ive ever had...talk about no crowds..lol
looked perfect from the beach...my friends and i were running from south side to north side watching perfect back to back spitting OH barrels and the swells growing, tidal push from nil....
paddling out through the channel on NS the first big one looms .. duckdive... sends one friend to the beach...
my only friend paddles WAY outside into the dark and into the open and i chill on the bowl... I watch him annihilated by a 3 wave set that huge and hollow...hes gone
then its my turn , im already way outside in the channel...Biggest Hb wave ive ever seen (big weds excluded) pitching out onto my head....hopeless, i ditch the board and swim....
by a miracle my leash held and i wasnt in the pilings.... caught one OH wave that i rode in to the beach... it barreled and spit...
...we burned one and surfed Seal SS bowl /13th all night til the sun came up
4-6' offshore slabs...first time its broke this year....
then i slept til a combo hit magnolia..