Exiting surf advice

Headwax. · Post by **Headwax.** » Fri Feb 12, 2010 4:50 am

Ho! In the shorey paddle to where the waves are sucking dry near the beach, face the outside horizon, when the big shorey startes to suck, dusck dive and as it passsssses over you , twiST aaand come in on the insside of the wave (like you are part of the wave) see crystal voyager second part with pink floyd....

you'll land on soft water and be sweet

if you time it right

cheese

sorry bout the saturday night typing

fooj · Post by **fooj** » Fri Feb 12, 2010 9:15 am

I'm not a kook. Mike, you should stop spreading rumors about us.

Smokin Rock · Post by **Smokin Rock** » Fri Feb 12, 2010 10:16 am

sorry Fooj....i had no idea you'd suddenly become cool

still wearing the Gath with the plumeria stickers all over it?

Kauaikneelo · Post by **Kauaikneelo** » Fri Feb 12, 2010 11:51 am

I think kook should be defined.

A friend of mine got on the shuttle at LAX to go to flight, he was on a business trip in a suit and tie. He looks up and the whole shuttle is packed with a group going to some convention, all with peirced body parts, spiked hair, major tats, lots a leather etc etc.... suddenly he realizes HE IS THE FREAK!!!

Just a matter of perspective I think. From one kook to another freak.

duct tape · Post by **duct tape** » Fri Feb 12, 2010 12:48 pm

[quote="Kauaikneelo"]I think kook should be defined.

A friend of mine got on the shuttle at LAX to go to flight, he was on a business trip in a suit and tie. He looks up and the whole shuttle is packed with a group going to some convention, all with peirced body parts, spiked hair, major tats, lots a leather etc etc.... suddenly he realizes HE IS THE FREAK!!!
quote]

I feel that way every time I go to the DMV to renew/replace one of my kid's drivers licenses.

Not sure if the way this thread has gone is a reflection on my OP, but thanks for the surf tips, I think.

Smokin Rock · Post by **Smokin Rock** » Fri Feb 12, 2010 12:58 pm

sorry to hijack and corrupt your thread dude

it's all rocks here. i dont take them off. i wear Toobs Bluntcut which have a nice short blade. flat top to better grip and are not side specific.
as far as not making ass exiting the water i guess we all have our moments

fooj · Post by **fooj** » Fri Feb 12, 2010 2:18 pm

My cranium is much thicker now, no need for the Gath.

One trick I learned in Indo for walking on reef with Vipers is turning them upside down. The tops provide more coverage and don't have a drain hole. It sure beats wearing a belly bag for the whole session to hold your booties, like some other people I know.

Smokin Rock · Post by **Smokin Rock** » Fri Feb 12, 2010 4:13 pm

i tried the bellybag thing one time!
the stupidest thing i tried was putting my leash on after i had threaded both fins onto it. i jumped in the water near Kongs and they totally acted like a sea-anchor keeping in the impact zone for the entire moneytrees section. i finally made it out near speedies with my brother laughing his ass off at me. i must have duckdived 40 waves in 3 feet of water

fooj · Post by **fooj** » Fri Feb 12, 2010 11:17 pm

Man, I really want to go back there. That place is epic. Perfect surf, beer fairy filling the fridge, no distractions, perfect surf, good eats, no stress, perfect surf...

Smokin Rock · Post by **Smokin Rock** » Sat Feb 13, 2010 9:52 am

some friends of mine are building their own resort right around the corner from Telescopes. Pat and i have been discussing a trip. check out Togat Nusa Retreat on my FB page.

long left straight out in front. another Puna boy Christian who is a guide at Nihiwatu (i figure he knows a good wave) told me the left rocks and wavepark is all right there.

rooster · Post by **rooster** » Sat Feb 13, 2010 11:06 am

Rock,

Could you give me some info on your friends new resort

Just replied to a PM from Jeff, gonna try to get together for a session.

Does he really wear a Gath

I guess at Sandys its not a bad idea.

fooj · Post by **fooj** » Sat Feb 13, 2010 11:30 am

Yes, I used to wear a Gath. No mo' tho'...

http://www.hawaiianline.com/mediagaller ... photo=1025

Smokin Rock · Post by **Smokin Rock** » Sat Feb 13, 2010 11:39 am

Rooster....do you Facebook? go there. they don't have a website yet but pics and chat at Togat Nusa Retreat on FB
theres actually a whole host of characters there

the helmut was true...i made up the part about the plumeria flowers stuck all over it

rooster · Post by **rooster** » Sat Feb 13, 2010 11:40 am

Jeff,
I understand it at Sandys, the fire engine and ambulance in the parking lot aren't there for a photo-op

Smokin Rock · Post by **Smokin Rock** » Sat Feb 13, 2010 11:41 am

also careful of Fooj....he'll chat you up in the lineup and next thing you know he's in position.....again.