Smokin Rock wrote:
good stuff RW
funny how the really magic boards seem to come alive in the gnarliest conditions.
i had this forest green single fin rounded pin way back when. the kind with the "s" rocker. bought it from the Greek in Huntington. so old there was no leash plug. for the most part it rode like sh%t. one day at Crescent Bay in Laguna the rights were firing off the point and reeling down the sandbar at a solid 6'. once in a lifetime for that spot. one other old guy on a 7' pin who was killing it and giving me serious stink eye in between waves.
i got one wave all the way through......one bottom turn.....edged under the lip and rode this huge green cavern for what seemed like forever. the board rode like silk....seemless.
i still think of that wave.....and that board
I couldn't say it any better!!!
"THE GREEK" WoW MaN ! Flashback><>
use it in the right place at the right time
WoW Smokin Rock WTF!!!
You just brought me back to my very 1st board!!!Dragged outta the neighborz rafterz,dusty and forgotten and yes it waz a "Greek" turquios blue, funky rounded square tail, big ole'single raker fin with a hole drilled through it for a leash,dug out deck almost spoonish and to top all those "inovative" late sixtiez,early seventiez Greenough esque tally'z n' triviez it had yezzzz,......drum roll...handlez,like our one and only "Great Orange One" BoB Gove! & hiz"Pescados Fliing Anaranjados"& Yes theze funky Rope handles!
I remember my very first Deep, long travel time, Barrel on that board, and it waz @ Bolsa Chica!! Sliding down the face,howling Santa Ana'z blowin,a solid 6' to 8ft. September South Swell, Dog Daze & back to school!Oh I digress...There I waz, there I waz, there I waz,Deep deep in the Green Room Toatally Moated man....aha where waz I Oh yeah,...I got blown back up the the face, back into the pocket when the fin released and whith out realizing it az I slide slipped/air dropped, hit the bottom grabed the (starboard)right rope and pulled a bottom turn, hard n' driving, redirecting under a heaving feathering
minty lime green and milky brown lip that seemed to freeze frame ultra slo mo, stretching stopping time and space, az I slid into that cavern, I can still remember that magical free floating time warp feeling and that smell blowing off the soggy wetlands and oil feildz mixing with that,that unique and distinct Bolsa smell and how different everything waz, Time slowing to almost a stop and it waz then ...I felt the power and beauty of the Ocean ... and that Deafining Hush of perfect spinning stillness, I waz "Inside" !!!
I went in... innocent,oblivious to what it was I waz doing Long Boarding,and Footing, and Floonimg all summer!!
I emerged a "KNEE BOARDER 4 LIFE"!! and needless to say from that point, School waz out and I waz living the "Endless Summer" till Now my Life has been measured in SunrizeZ and SunsetZ Hemispherez,Swell, & the Tidez and a Deep Spiritual connection you cant buy or learn in school...
The Ocean iz my Home,Teacher,Mistress and Canvas!
Hey "Ler" thatz my little secret....Bolsa Iz where it all began 4 me, Ole' "Tin Can Beach"
Thatz why I'm so fond of your passion for our little slice of paradise and itz rich History...
Boy she sure haz changed through the yearz eh? Not the Stoke though!
~Green Dreamz 2 U my Friendz~ ~And Remember to Spread the Aloha Spirit,Smile in the Line Up~
