Surf Report 2009

[Masons]

My new home break!! Just moved north of SB to a house finally, no more apartments for me.

It only takes me about 5 minutes to walk out my back gate and to this break, first swell I've been able to check it out on and I was stoked!! Nice reef break and not a soul in sight..

Jimbo send me a PM when ur coming up.

[stevea]

After a month of not much value this week "the tide has turned" in favor of beach breaks from Canggu to Kuta left and right breaks all along this stretch from low tide early to after the high high tide just before lunch and now after
I havent surfed every day but im getting close still sqeezing sand from pores all over after being rolled up the beach by a rogue set to be left stranded like a beached whale
All indications are so far that this year could make up for the inconsistent pattern of the last couple if your coming to Indo get in touch by pm and maybe we can share a few waves
Its always good to hook up with fellow kneelos and thats what i m doing this weekend Tomway will be blindfolding me locking me in the trunk and taking me to one of his secret spots somewhere on one of 17000 islands

[stevea]

After boarding my mystery flight from Bali to ? i was soon at the first stage to our destination Tom picked me up at the airport where i was immediately blindfolded ,we arrived at our hotel some hours later too late for a bintang or 2 .
Sunup the next morning a quick breakfast of veges and sate sauce washed down with a coffee and a signing of confidentiality documents ,after a short drive we had our first glimpse of the ocean there was whitewater off the point we had come to explore, from this we just knew it meant waves how big wasnt certain but we were soon walking along a pristine white sandy
beach towards nirvana
OK OK the waves were maybe 3-4 on the take off about 5 distinct A frame peaks stetching for about 1K The swell was due for a jump later that day but 4 hours did us
A solid 14 hour sleep and we were up before the sun the swell had jumped we couldnt believe our luck ,we chose the middle peak and surfed the right
the best right ive surfed this year no the most fun ive had going right in Indo
I was on such a high when i returned to Bali i couldnt help blurting out to my girlfriend that a surf like that is better than sex .She responded by not trying to prove me wrong but that if i ever went back there she would leave me god im going to miss her

[Steeno]

too funny steve

[gumby]

Steva will you post a picture of your EX-girl frend that way we will know what good surf looks like Sounds lile you had a great time. Next time tell her it was better then shoe shopping.....

[Eric Carson]

Masons, I can feel your stoke all the way to Florida!!
Weak ass Winter here in Florida, but possibly a swell on the way-just got an email from M-O-W. He only comes up from Miami when it's good, so I'm crossing my fingers.

[sf_firestarter]

...a surf like that is better than sex .She responded by not trying to prove me wrong but that if i ever went back there she would leave me god im going to miss her

AMEN!!!

[stevea]

Hey Steeno ,Gumby s_f firestarter,
I love that" im going to miss her" line, stole it from a t shirt you can get at Ulus ,nearly bought one and was going to texta in half a dozen names such as rini, lia ,upik ,dewi ,debbie?maya ,and then draw a line thru them but i thought it might be a little politically incorrect
Still amped on the trip we had i think even Mike would pass up a date with Paris for a bit of what we experienced
Surf today and yesterday looking like it will be the same tomorrow early glassy 4ft + low tide breaks all good light onshore by lunch followed by late glass off

[Mike Fernandez]

Yeah Stevea

[tomway]

Hey steve
Missed your recount of the trip before. Yep, a classic bit of good luck, especially since we cancelled the 'real' surf trip coz of lack of swell. I'm still buzzing now, a week later and can't wait to get back. The only worry is... we're both so bloody forgetful I doubt we'll ever find the beach again

How's this for a follow up story to the trip:

When I met steve at the airport before we set off, he was patting his pockets going, 'Well I dunno Tom, I can't seem to remember where I put m'bike keys.'

Suddenly it dawned on him, he'd left them in the ignition of his bike in the car park at Bali international airport.

He said (wishfully), 'They might be so obvious that no one will see 'em' (?!) I replied, 'Um, maybe... but I'm pretty sure you've lost your bike mate!'

Three days later, he arrives back at Bali airport. The bike's still there The carpark ticket collector has the keys waiting for him, and even REFUSES to take a cash 'donation' for his kindness. This in a country where the average wage is $3 a day...

Great end to great trip!

[Smokin Rock]

6-10' today. light offshore wind. mostly closing out with the odd picture perfect, huge death barrel rolling through.
yesterday the swell came up and the wind turned nicely offshore. went with a friend on his jet ski and scored 4-6' big fat bowls that broke forever. got about 10 waves and got caught inside twice. felt like i paddled 10 miles.
the swell came up a bunch and by the time we got back to our launch it was solid 8' Hawaiian. we had to wait 15 mins motoring around in a monster toiletbowl dodging huge pits then raced inside to ride the back of a 4' wave into the 10 foot wide entrance. these tow guys are f&ckin crazy.
there are these two islands right next to each other out there. there are solid 10' plus swells breaking all around both of them only about 50 yrds between them so there is just mayhem.......of course my bud goes right between the two.....one wave broke over us.....we duckdived a wave on the ski. i was shitting
still reeling from the adrenalin overload.

[skansand]

adrenaline overload here in OC too....RJs was throwin, you couldnt NOT get barreled...

sketchy reef barrels in a wind protected nook after..

[Casey Patelski]

Green St. Patty's South Swell going thru the creek today. 6 ft peaks, off shore, big drop, slow face into neck breaking shore break in 2 ft of water. Forgot all about the danger zone at middles. Got worked a lot inside, its just so tempting to go for what looks like the perfect set up and it just smashes you. Spongers everywhere. I'd do it all over again though.

[Jimbo]

The Cove was fun and basically empty!

[byunhosa]

. . .except for 5-6 kneelos!