Sunday sucked! Side shore small craft advisory surfing in shallow 6ft waves. Pounded, and battered.
Today was pretty good, 25kt offshore, and I had some good rides at the inlet in OC. Two hours by myself, then another 1.5 hours with someone else.
I am a traveller of both time and space, a weaver in and out of dreams, I see worlds seldom seen.
I used to ride the old blue and yellow canvas mats at Sewer Peak, Suicides, Lil' Windansea and 26th Ave. back in the 1960's. This was before leashes and before standups really surfed some of these breaks.
I also remember getting totally drilled by a 6 foot grinder at Moss Landing while on a mat. Blew out all the baffles and readjusted my neck.
My wife and I used to ride a mat tandem on massive, South swell closeouts at State Beach in Santa Monica. Sacred the hell out of the tourists. lol
Blowing through SC on the way to SB on Saturday... looks like the wind might be too.
Any you SC/MB folks up for an AM surf?
Might try SB/VC on Sunday AM (clan/Palm Sunday permitting...)
Same there for a dawn patrol...
I'll be in OC late Sunday to Wednesday, leaving early. Bummed to miss Saturday, but those are going to be three solid heats... Tues/Wed look like a blip upward... same there.
It's been non-stop Spring winds, with the odd 'looks glassy' but way chopped and disorganized around here. Hope to indulge a bit Southward amidst too much work...
That's OK, Gumby. I've been double and triple booked for months now so water time is close to nil. But things are looking up for a fun spring and summer. We'll try again next time you're up in the Monterey Bay.
OB was double overhead and like glass last night. Got one bomb and then sucked down the beach by the rip. First time in the water in a while and had to ride the boogie as my shoulder is still a mess.
SF looked unreal. Too much west in swell but some people got some good ones. Some people never made it out as the white water was relentless. We watched two guys paddle out and go sideways at the first line of white water for half a mile before giving up.
Santa Cruz loves a West swell. I paddled out North of town and surfed with only four guys. I got one good wave then one windy, bumpy beast . The SE wind came up hard so I went in and drove to the Eastside in my wetsuit and paddled out to crowded(Spring Break), but really good surf.
Bob - the beaches south of town were the best they've been since January.
But the rain is just starting to fall with the prospect of thunder and hail this afternoon.
Decent swell yesterday.The north reefs were overloaded,so it was the in town dance.3-5 with sets a bit OH.Local crowd.The few outsiders didn't have a chance.. :lol:The channel bars are honed,middle peaks left and right,nothing went unridden.The 80-100 lb groms were on anything that looked rideable.Got rain,south wind today,swell is still ok just too glorpy.
Any kneelo on this site over here yesterday?Briefly talked to a kneelo with a romanosky,wore flippers,about ran me down...real close.. :shock: Close only counts in horseshoes and hand grenades.... :lol: