Surf Report 2008

Beeline2.0 · Post by **Beeline2.0** » Sun Feb 24, 2008 6:32 pm

latest from Wetsand issued this evening:

Here's how I'm calling it tonight:

Monday the 25th (by sunrise) this swell should bring at least 15-foot face heights to west facing breaks not inhibited by island blockage. Conditions are still cautionary though as pounding surf from a direct westerly angle could make for less than lined-up conditions. Rip currents, are practically inevitable, especially as the tide recedes throughout the afternoon. Note that standout west facing breaks could see some 20-foot face heights in the early AM as standout south facing breaks see DOH sets. This swell will fade during the day, but even at nightfall it looks like surf will maintain max face heights of 2-4 feet overhead for the standout west facing spots. Weather though should begin to clear-out on Monday, but winds may not completely calm for the AM. Tide though doesn't look like much of an issue. More on the winds here, weather here, tides here, and wave heights here.

Tuesday the 26th this swell should back off with size a couple feet overhead at west facing breaks for the AM, chest to at times head high for south facing breaks able to work the wrap. High pressure should move in Tuesday for some mild weather. Winds should start off offshore, but could be a little breezy from LA north (12 mph or so from the ENE at wind-prone spots). Tide isn't looking like much of an issue.

the Monterey buoy is at 25 feet with 15-second periods, the Cape San Martin buoy is at 18 feet with 17-second periods, and the Pt. Conception buoy is at 27 feet with 17-second periods. Farther south, the Catalina and Tanner Banks buoys are starting to show some occasional forerunners ranging from 10-15 feet with 17- 19-second periods.

Overall, NW periods are averaging 17 seconds from 275 degrees.

In SoCal, This swell is just starting to fill in, slowly making its way southward. While west facing breaks from LA north, as of 5:00 this afternoon, were running up to DOH, spots farther south were smaller as the swell had yet to traverse the coastline. In the next few hours, points as far south as the Mexico border should see DOH sets. This swell will then continue to increase in size until near midnight or 2:00 AM when face heights could reach 20 feet at the best exposed west facing breaks. Note though that there is a lot of island blockage going on around OC and some parts of SD, evident by the CDIP swell model. Click here for current wave heights.

Northern California and the Central Coast are seeing face heights as high as 30 feet at breaks able to work a 260-275 degree angle.

RT · Post by RT » Sun Feb 24, 2008 6:44 pm

Overhead was the only wave I saw being ridden in VC, and I saw the spongers earlier too WC, livin large!!!

Rincon was impossible. Maybe 4 guys out, but just trying to maintain some sort of positioning, then whammo, outside bombs cleaning everyone up. Not a wave ridden in the 30 minutes I watched.

gumby · Post by **gumby** » Sun Feb 24, 2008 6:48 pm

Going to stick tail between legs and wait untill tues. to head up north. Tues. Rincon anyone?.....Hope the water clears up by then.

Thanks to those that know. Working my way to Santa Cruz by Friday

randiego · Post by **randiego** » Sun Feb 24, 2008 6:52 pm

Surfed SD's favorite beach break this afternoon from 2:30 to 5pm, until a huge set wave broke my leash (along with another guy's leash AND TWO boards). DOH+ and really throwing.

Managed to grab a couple of bombs like the photo I just posted...

SamC · Post by **SamC** » Sun Feb 24, 2008 7:56 pm

me and my friend went down to rincon this morning at around 9am, It was sloppy and about waist high nobody out. slept in the car for an hour to wait for the swell picked up. looked again and it was pushing well over DOH. I went out and got my butt kicked. It was my first time surfing their and I had no idea how bad that current was.

from what I did see, Campus point looked the best. 12-15 foot faces and clean, although as the tide went out it started to look worse.

I'm hopin that Corners will be workin monday morning

mutiny · Post by **mutiny** » Mon Feb 25, 2008 6:29 am

Sam that sounds a little like my surf yesterday! All this talk about this huge swell that surfline predicts to arrive in the late afternoon, I want to surf so........ I go down to bolsa

at 12 and see 3 foot waves

but wayne K. assures me.... "tom there will be surf paddle out now and youll be able to score some of the sets at cable cars!" I laugh and sit there and read my book waiting......an hour passes and wayne pulls up behind me and says you missed your window

"wayne its 3 foooooooooooooo oh oh" seriously I didnt even look up from my book that whole time and in the span of an hour it was 8 - 10 feet and throwing! Consistent. I tried to paddle out but couldnt make it past the second tier of white water, 15 minutes later I give up

go to seal beach southside and its 10 - 12 foot with bigger sets! its breaking at the oil derek, ester! I paddle out through some serious shorepound

and paddle past the end of the pier and off to the end of the jetty where its wild and wooly.... mushy but lots of water moving around! I couldnt find a rythmn out there

sets over here over there... I think im in the right place and a set breaks 100 yards outside of me! then to the south then to the north! I hear from a loudspeaker "please remove yourselves form the pier the pier is now closed due to high surf" I manage to catch one and ride it ALL the way to the shorepound just a lot of cutbacks and staying with the whitewater to hasten my exit! then I gotta negotiate my exit throught he shorepound

Ler was more successful and scored a bunch out there!
Hope this morning is more together.

randiego · Post by **randiego** » Mon Feb 25, 2008 11:26 am

Tom - I was talking to a guy in the lineup at Blacks this morning and he told me that same story - that the Seal Beach oil derrick was breaking last night - he had some friends that were surfing out well beyond the end of the breakwater. They said that they could see the sets at the derrick, and then a minute later the set waves would reach them. Sounds nutty

This morning Blacks was bigger than last night - I saw a couple of canyon sets that looked triple overhead to me - 20 foot faces I estimate

Junky and wally before dawn, then it got better and better

saw Steve Yamamoto out charging, and Paul Duquet came down from orange county and paddled out too

surfhorn · Post by **surfhorn** » Mon Feb 25, 2008 12:53 pm

Checked the beaches this morning: New Brighton to the Pajaro River mouth. Low parking lots are closed due to debris and sand strewn up to (and into) the houses. One dead, headless sea lion propped up on a round of wood in the middle of the road in Seacliff State Park.

Old metal bulkheads and wooden pilings from the 1920's-30's are also exposed at Seacliff and the current wooden bulkheads are broken in quite a few spots. And these are thick chunks of lumber. Also planks from the pier are here and there on the beach. Pier is closed.

A couple standups out at the boat but only enough room for takeoff and a couple turns. Manresa was also out of control. We're all waiting to see how the sand settles.

ScottMac · Post by **ScottMac** » Mon Feb 25, 2008 1:20 pm

Beeline2.0 · Post by **Beeline2.0** » Mon Feb 25, 2008 7:06 pm

Went to C street this morning in Ventura.
Something wierd, mostly head high with plusses to 8 ft faces.
Something was directing swell away from there.
Looked at SS , double the size, but sloppy stormy disorganized stuff.
Ended up at Rincon, light to sometimes medium crowd.
Overhead by a ft or two and many plusses.
Some lump and bump that cleaned up throughout the morning.
Had a great time.

Some South African transplant was kneeboarding out there
as well as 'FlexSpoon' and Skansand.

ScottMac · Post by **ScottMac** » Mon Feb 25, 2008 7:22 pm

W.G. Facenda · Post by **W.G. Facenda** » Mon Feb 25, 2008 7:33 pm

Went out at Sandspit . Some head high waves and not all that crowded. Got a few 100 + yd rides .. a fun lunchbreak.

mutiny · Post by **mutiny** » Mon Feb 25, 2008 7:42 pm

Randy sounds like you had a good time a blacks! and killer water photos youve been takin

scotty. I thought it would have been HUGE up there where you are!

I surfed Southside HB this morning for 2 hours with one other guy from Ventura!

I had to pinch myself it was smokin and only us two out there!
10 foot sets breaking inside of rubys the best lefts in a long time!
and the current wasnt that bad.
managed to get worked on one set, under water for awhile and came up sputtering only to have the next one on the head

SFKneelo · Post by **SFKneelo** » Mon Feb 25, 2008 7:46 pm

Bee...

SA transplant... Sean Noone? Tall guy, really solid surfer?

Beeline2.0 · Post by **Beeline2.0** » Mon Feb 25, 2008 8:04 pm

SFKneelo wrote:Bee...

SA transplant... Sean Noone? Tall guy, really solid surfer?

an old 55ish;
a bit chubby, heard of the site, fair or pink complexion, not much more.