but when Bud mentions 6-8 foot, I am supposing that is a Hawaiian scale so faces are in the 12 foot range. Does anybody know a simple conversion factor from Hawaiian scale to face size.How is the surf so far this year in your part of the world ?
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southpeakbrad
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fooj
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stemple,
From my side of the island Hawaiian is about half face value up to about 8 feet, ie 8 foot Hawaiian is 15 foot faces. It seems anything bigger than that is about 2/3 face value, i.e. 12 foot Hawaiian about 18 foot face. Something like that.
From my side of the island Hawaiian is about half face value up to about 8 feet, ie 8 foot Hawaiian is 15 foot faces. It seems anything bigger than that is about 2/3 face value, i.e. 12 foot Hawaiian about 18 foot face. Something like that.
bongbong
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Smokin Rock
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fooj
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Mike, you're right on each spot being judged according to its own attributes. The weakpoint in the system seems to be the estimation of the face height. Maybe in Hawaii it is underestimated. I've seen friends call DOH only 4 feet, and not at wimpy spots, sounds like about your scale.
The whole Hawaiian size thing depends on who you hang with. It has a full array of scaling from macho (SMOKIN ROCK, et. al.) to kinda wimpy (surf-news.com, I've seen them call Pipe 6-8 when its only 3-5 by my scale, they use the 2/3 face height thing all the time.). I guess the main thing is to make it back to terra firma when the days over, the story that you tell your friends who weren't there is up to you.
Bud is probably getting seriously tunnelled at his quasi-Tahitian reefpass. I hear that region is firing and the wind is good.
The whole Hawaiian size thing depends on who you hang with. It has a full array of scaling from macho (SMOKIN ROCK, et. al.) to kinda wimpy (surf-news.com, I've seen them call Pipe 6-8 when its only 3-5 by my scale, they use the 2/3 face height thing all the time.). I guess the main thing is to make it back to terra firma when the days over, the story that you tell your friends who weren't there is up to you.
Bud is probably getting seriously tunnelled at his quasi-Tahitian reefpass. I hear that region is firing and the wind is good.
bongbong
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stemple
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I did a bit of quick research. Apparently the NWS Hawaiian office only gives forecasts for wave face heights. This is because someone died and sued the NWS for forcasting to the Hawaiian scale. Thus official wave forecasts are now from the front of the wave. I also came across a article in Surfer's journal saying that the original hawaiian scale was developed from complex equation looking at bouy heights etc. It was initially used as a way to underestimate surf height to keep the townies from flocking to the north shore during good swells. Kinda of a code language, from there I guess it just got warped to everybodies own opinion.
From my perspective the best way to judge surf heights is from the front. Its the most consistent scale. If you use backs then bottom contour plays too big of a factor. Also, my ego can't take it when I have to say my ass was kicked by a 5 foot wave
From my perspective the best way to judge surf heights is from the front. Its the most consistent scale. If you use backs then bottom contour plays too big of a factor. Also, my ego can't take it when I have to say my ass was kicked by a 5 foot wave
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DrStrange
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Personally, I think its all about ego. Certain personality types, like me, call the actual wave face in feet, as accurately as they can guesstimate. The rest, under play to various degrees if there is a chance you will see it. Or over play if no way you'lll know.
Used to surf w/ a guy in San Diego who had some serious HI influence. It was NEVER over 6 feet to him. "6 feet" was couple feet or more overhead. "Solid 6 feet" was DOH. And "SOLID 6 feet" was 3X. Head high and under was junk.
Local shop surf report: if the woman answers and says shoulder to head high, that is what you get. If the man answers and says same, its at least 2-3 feet overhead.
Nothing at all to do with the waves mostly. More about ego and image.
Used to surf w/ a guy in San Diego who had some serious HI influence. It was NEVER over 6 feet to him. "6 feet" was couple feet or more overhead. "Solid 6 feet" was DOH. And "SOLID 6 feet" was 3X. Head high and under was junk.
Local shop surf report: if the woman answers and says shoulder to head high, that is what you get. If the man answers and says same, its at least 2-3 feet overhead.
Nothing at all to do with the waves mostly. More about ego and image.
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surfhorn
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N. Shore braces for waves
By Suzanne Roig and Mike Gordon
Advertiser Staff Writers
SUNSET BEACH, HAWAII � North Shore residents, familiar with the sea's
destructive power, warily awaited waves today expected to tower as high as
50 feet.
Joe Green plans to be at his surf shop before dawn with his rake, broom and
mop, just in case the big waves hit Hale'iwa.
His shop, Surf N Sea, has a front-row seat to the high surf. How it rolls in
today will determine how much muscle Green and his employees will have to
use to keep the store dry.
Down the road, Sunset Beach resident Liam McNamara and his friends are
watching for the surf.
He said many of the houses along the wide sandy beach between Rocky Point
and Sunset were damaged in January 1998, when similar high surf smashed into
homes, undermining their foundations and knocking down retaining walls. Sand
bags and a temporary wooden fence remind visitors of the power of the ocean
at a home along the beach.
"Last time we had footings exposed and the beach washed away," McNamara
said. "The bushes will all be dead and the vegetation will die because of
all the salt water floating in the air."
Kaua'i got a preview yesterday of this year's high surf season. The county's
Ocean Safety Bureau closed all North Shore beaches to swimming yesterday,
and suspended camping at beachparks at Black Pot and Ha'ena due to possible
flooding.
Lifeguards said Kaua'i waves were in the 20- to 30-foot range with
predictions of 30- to 50-foot surf overnight. Kaua'i's Ocean Safety Bureau
said the surf was expected to be lower there today, but recommended
beachgoers check with lifeguards before entering the ocean.
On O'ahu, April Teixeira, the manager of Ted's Bakery in Sunset Beach, said
she planned to stay in her Sunset Point home and see what happens.
"I'm not the type to make elaborate preparations," Teixeira said. "But when
it's high, I don't go near the surf."
The National Weather Service yesterday forecasted wave faces 35- to 50-foot
high by sunrise today. The weather service issued a high-surf warning for
north- and west-facing shores through tonight.
"Generally when we have surf of this height, it comes over the wall by the
bus stop," Green said. "We'll have to make sure the drain stays clear. It
could come into the store."
Waves that large, however, will be more than enough for organizers to send
surfers into Waimea Bay for the 20th Anniversary Quiksilver In Memory of
Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational, said contest spokeswoman Jodi Young. The
first heats should begin at 8 a.m. today, she said.
Only elite surfers are invited and in 19 years, the surf has only been large
enough for the contest to be held six times. Waves have to be at least 20
feet under the traditional, Hawaiian-style measurement, which is roughly
half to two-thirds as large as the wave-face scale used by the weather
service. The contest organizers are expecting Hawaiian-scale waves of 25
feet, Young said.
"We are good to go," Young said yesterday. "Everybody is pretty excited."
Well, everybody except the city's North Shore lifeguards, who expect some of
the largest crowds of the young winter surf season.
"We're just concerned that there will be a lot of people out on the North
Shore and it impacts our ability to provide emergency services," said city
lifeguard Lt. John Hoogsteden.
Drivers stuck in traffic tend to get frustrated, park on the side of the
road and walk too close to the water's edge, he said.
"They are standing where they think it is calm and then a big wave comes
along and smashes them," he said.
Often, they are dragged over rocks and badly cut, Hoogsteden said.
"Be smart and stay a safe distance away from the ocean," he said. "And don't
expect to go surfing."
All of the O'ahu Civil Defense volunteers along the North Shore have been
put on alert. They haven't had to deal with surf this large since January
2003.
High surf warnings
O'ahu's Civil Defense Agency warned that a predicted high surf and an
unusually high tide today could combine to increase the chances of damage to
homes, businesses and roads.
The agency issued these cautions:
� People in North Shore or Leeward Coast beach areas should be ready to
evacuate immediately if ordered or if they feel they are in danger.
� If an evacuation is ordered, shelter locations will be broadcast on
television and radio.
� If high surf threatens your safety or your property, call 911 immediately.
Source: O'ahu Civil Defense Agency
"We are working closely with the police and ocean safety," said Peter Hirai,
plans and operations manage for the agency. "We have been notifying as many
people as we can on the North Shore, just warning them to be prepared."
Overnight spot checks will be made of areas where waves have washed over the
highway during previous high-surf episodes, he said.
"Especially with it this high, they will be diligent in checking it," Hirai
said.
The civil defense agency urged people to avoid the surf and stay out of the
water. Residents should also be ready to evacuate their homes, the agency
warned. It also wants motorists to drive with caution because highways can
become clogged with sand or debris.
Jamie Ward, another resident near Rocky Point, wasn't planning on removing
the barbecue off his lanai even though it is right over the beach.
"It's pretty simple to clean up," Ward said. "If it gets that big, it might
go as high as underneath the house."
Advertiser Staff Writer Jan Tenbruggencate contributed to this report. Reach
Suzanne Roig at sroig@honoluluadvertiser.com or 395-8831. Reach Mike Gordon
at mgordon@honoluluadvertiser.com or 525-8012.
By Suzanne Roig and Mike Gordon
Advertiser Staff Writers
SUNSET BEACH, HAWAII � North Shore residents, familiar with the sea's
destructive power, warily awaited waves today expected to tower as high as
50 feet.
Joe Green plans to be at his surf shop before dawn with his rake, broom and
mop, just in case the big waves hit Hale'iwa.
His shop, Surf N Sea, has a front-row seat to the high surf. How it rolls in
today will determine how much muscle Green and his employees will have to
use to keep the store dry.
Down the road, Sunset Beach resident Liam McNamara and his friends are
watching for the surf.
He said many of the houses along the wide sandy beach between Rocky Point
and Sunset were damaged in January 1998, when similar high surf smashed into
homes, undermining their foundations and knocking down retaining walls. Sand
bags and a temporary wooden fence remind visitors of the power of the ocean
at a home along the beach.
"Last time we had footings exposed and the beach washed away," McNamara
said. "The bushes will all be dead and the vegetation will die because of
all the salt water floating in the air."
Kaua'i got a preview yesterday of this year's high surf season. The county's
Ocean Safety Bureau closed all North Shore beaches to swimming yesterday,
and suspended camping at beachparks at Black Pot and Ha'ena due to possible
flooding.
Lifeguards said Kaua'i waves were in the 20- to 30-foot range with
predictions of 30- to 50-foot surf overnight. Kaua'i's Ocean Safety Bureau
said the surf was expected to be lower there today, but recommended
beachgoers check with lifeguards before entering the ocean.
On O'ahu, April Teixeira, the manager of Ted's Bakery in Sunset Beach, said
she planned to stay in her Sunset Point home and see what happens.
"I'm not the type to make elaborate preparations," Teixeira said. "But when
it's high, I don't go near the surf."
The National Weather Service yesterday forecasted wave faces 35- to 50-foot
high by sunrise today. The weather service issued a high-surf warning for
north- and west-facing shores through tonight.
"Generally when we have surf of this height, it comes over the wall by the
bus stop," Green said. "We'll have to make sure the drain stays clear. It
could come into the store."
Waves that large, however, will be more than enough for organizers to send
surfers into Waimea Bay for the 20th Anniversary Quiksilver In Memory of
Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational, said contest spokeswoman Jodi Young. The
first heats should begin at 8 a.m. today, she said.
Only elite surfers are invited and in 19 years, the surf has only been large
enough for the contest to be held six times. Waves have to be at least 20
feet under the traditional, Hawaiian-style measurement, which is roughly
half to two-thirds as large as the wave-face scale used by the weather
service. The contest organizers are expecting Hawaiian-scale waves of 25
feet, Young said.
"We are good to go," Young said yesterday. "Everybody is pretty excited."
Well, everybody except the city's North Shore lifeguards, who expect some of
the largest crowds of the young winter surf season.
"We're just concerned that there will be a lot of people out on the North
Shore and it impacts our ability to provide emergency services," said city
lifeguard Lt. John Hoogsteden.
Drivers stuck in traffic tend to get frustrated, park on the side of the
road and walk too close to the water's edge, he said.
"They are standing where they think it is calm and then a big wave comes
along and smashes them," he said.
Often, they are dragged over rocks and badly cut, Hoogsteden said.
"Be smart and stay a safe distance away from the ocean," he said. "And don't
expect to go surfing."
All of the O'ahu Civil Defense volunteers along the North Shore have been
put on alert. They haven't had to deal with surf this large since January
2003.
High surf warnings
O'ahu's Civil Defense Agency warned that a predicted high surf and an
unusually high tide today could combine to increase the chances of damage to
homes, businesses and roads.
The agency issued these cautions:
� People in North Shore or Leeward Coast beach areas should be ready to
evacuate immediately if ordered or if they feel they are in danger.
� If an evacuation is ordered, shelter locations will be broadcast on
television and radio.
� If high surf threatens your safety or your property, call 911 immediately.
Source: O'ahu Civil Defense Agency
"We are working closely with the police and ocean safety," said Peter Hirai,
plans and operations manage for the agency. "We have been notifying as many
people as we can on the North Shore, just warning them to be prepared."
Overnight spot checks will be made of areas where waves have washed over the
highway during previous high-surf episodes, he said.
"Especially with it this high, they will be diligent in checking it," Hirai
said.
The civil defense agency urged people to avoid the surf and stay out of the
water. Residents should also be ready to evacuate their homes, the agency
warned. It also wants motorists to drive with caution because highways can
become clogged with sand or debris.
Jamie Ward, another resident near Rocky Point, wasn't planning on removing
the barbecue off his lanai even though it is right over the beach.
"It's pretty simple to clean up," Ward said. "If it gets that big, it might
go as high as underneath the house."
Advertiser Staff Writer Jan Tenbruggencate contributed to this report. Reach
Suzanne Roig at sroig@honoluluadvertiser.com or 395-8831. Reach Mike Gordon
at mgordon@honoluluadvertiser.com or 525-8012.
kbing since plywood days
went surfing some older crew today
Surfed this morning with 3 guys all aged 50 or there abouts, it was shifty 6 feet slabs of ocean at Forresters a big left hand reef break on the Central Coast of NSW.
All three guys took it on like your average beach break, except some of the bottom turns were longer than the average ride at my local.
To put the power of the place in perspective, get caught inside the peak by 3 in a row and you face a paddle of 200 m back to the peak.
Kiwi Craig McDonald and locals Damien Coase and Don Boland showed that there is hope for the average 40 year old, stay surf fit and have the courage to push over the edge - the rush of kneeboarding large waves can be sustained for a long time.
All three guys took it on like your average beach break, except some of the bottom turns were longer than the average ride at my local.
To put the power of the place in perspective, get caught inside the peak by 3 in a row and you face a paddle of 200 m back to the peak.
Kiwi Craig McDonald and locals Damien Coase and Don Boland showed that there is hope for the average 40 year old, stay surf fit and have the courage to push over the edge - the rush of kneeboarding large waves can be sustained for a long time.
Jamie
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DarcyM
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North Shore warnings
Hope Bud McCray's place is ok -- he's right on the water front at Sunset Point. 
It would suck if his new place got damaged. But I'll nominate about 30 kneelos to help with the clean-up and re-building if needed starting in February. 
It would suck if his new place got damaged. But I'll nominate about 30 kneelos to help with the clean-up and re-building if needed starting in February. dm
"Push the button, Max!"
"Push the button, Max!"
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Smokin Rock
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fooj
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I just got back from the NS. Darcy, Bud's house is still there. A bit of sand and debris some salt water ponds along the roadside but nothing major that I could see. As Mike wrote 'happens several times a year', this one was big but not superduper big. One good thing is that after the dust settles there will finally be a sandbar for us mere mortals to surf on, hopefully a good one that lasts long. It looks like there's a few more big lows blowing fetch our way, goody goody.
Hey Mike, after Feb maybe I'll be able to tell people I went to Himalayas and saw a Neanderthal. Good you don't apologize for your behavior but if I see you laughing when I'm caught inside...
Hey Mike, after Feb maybe I'll be able to tell people I went to Himalayas and saw a Neanderthal. Good you don't apologize for your behavior but if I see you laughing when I'm caught inside...
bongbong
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Smokin Rock
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MWROBERTSON
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swell
The surf has been pumping here there and everywhere on this swell as you all know.
We've logged in some fun days so far but I hear tomorrow is gonna be huge!
Saturday-3-6ft-All day low tide glass-Sunset Cliffs with Jim Richardson & Bob Welch.
Weds-3-5ft-All day glass, tubing lefts -Newport Jetties (Blackies)-Saw Big Tony in the water.
Today-3-6ft- Cranking right lines- S.S. HB-Pier,Roaring, Off-shore-Santa Ana winds!-With Tom Backer, Mike Butler & I think Barry Baker was around too.
Should be good tomorrow.
We've logged in some fun days so far but I hear tomorrow is gonna be huge!
Saturday-3-6ft-All day low tide glass-Sunset Cliffs with Jim Richardson & Bob Welch.
Weds-3-5ft-All day glass, tubing lefts -Newport Jetties (Blackies)-Saw Big Tony in the water.
Today-3-6ft- Cranking right lines- S.S. HB-Pier,Roaring, Off-shore-Santa Ana winds!-With Tom Backer, Mike Butler & I think Barry Baker was around too.
Should be good tomorrow.