Surf Report 2009

gogglefog · Post by **gogglefog** » Sat Aug 29, 2009 12:27 pm

Hey Eric, I knew that you guys would get a good season this year since I moved out west.

Jerry · Post by **Jerry** » Sat Aug 29, 2009 3:04 pm

REPORT FROM THE WILD NORTHLANDS :
Warm weather, warmer water ( low to mid 60's, I wore my 3/2 $99 department store special today ) lots of salmon = lots of seals/sealions = lots of shark sightings. They even put the "Stay out of the water" signs up on Seaside beach. So I stayed away from the beach but could not resist partaking of a rare summertime south wind / 8 ft. s.w. swell combo at a point break who's name must not be spoken.

Scott · Post by **Scott** » Sat Aug 29, 2009 7:14 pm

Alfredo and I also enjoyed the same NW swell with South combo, about 6-8', warm, warm weather and water, and minimal crowd at my favorite NorCal point/reef break whose name must not be spoken. Ahhhhhhh...the start of winter swells!

Jimbo · Post by **Jimbo** » Sun Aug 30, 2009 7:14 pm

Scott and Jerry - now what kind of surf reports are those????

alfredo zavala · Post by **alfredo zavala** » Sun Aug 30, 2009 7:54 pm

I will add that we scored on Friday and Saturday at the aforementioned unamed spot!!

Jimbo · Post by **Jimbo** » Mon Aug 31, 2009 7:29 pm

So it is really more Central Cal......

SFKneelo · Post by **SFKneelo** » Tue Sep 01, 2009 7:55 am

Ah yeah, 'Flossies'

(That spot under the cliff where the Great Whites use the bull kelp to floss out the seal bits)

I'm feeling a 'that break's so GNARLY' thread coming on...

(... and after the locals had their way with the car, Mum's Air Walkers got slashed)

On topic, looks some fun but a bit wind-hacked surf on tap...

Mike Fernandez · Post by **Mike Fernandez** » Tue Sep 01, 2009 9:27 am

Sooo, I'm assuming Wedge could get 50ft with that new hurricane down Mexico way? Category 5, nice!

skansand · Post by **skansand** » Tue Sep 01, 2009 2:06 pm

I dont know mike, the swells supposed to be like SE I think? THe only place i know will be good is zooport point....

Maybe hole/bowl?

maxb · Post by **maxb** » Tue Sep 01, 2009 2:51 pm

mike the only way wedge would be good on that dir. is if wedge and cylinders connect and the left at the end is makable, then it could be epic ,otherwise it's all closeouts. the boogers will have a ball
max
ps if it gets big enough, the hole could be interesting with that sand point they have now. has anyone else seen that lately? you never know

kbk66 · Post by **kbk66** » Tue Sep 01, 2009 3:03 pm

that hurricane is supposed to make landfall later tonight, unless by some chance it heads west

Smokin Rock · Post by **Smokin Rock** » Tue Sep 08, 2009 10:22 pm

and so it begins...........
The primary source for Hawaii surf based on weather models depicting late Tuesday into Thursday is from 330-350 degrees under gale to severe gale winds on the west side of the low pressure. The duration in this band should be short, about a day, limiting growth of seas. However, the fetch length should grow and the proximity to Hawaii, within 1000 nm are the key factors to suggest moderate to near high surf locally.

Long period forerunners could arrive as early as late Thursday afternoon from 310-330 degrees. Surf heights should ramp up rapidly early Friday, with the peak of the episode mid day from 330-340 degrees. Surf should favor moderate levels from 330-350 degrees on Saturday.

Models suggest the system will occlude in the gulf of Alaska, and spin in place for about a day. This could give a reinforcement of longer period swell for Sunday into Monday in the moderate category from 000-020 degrees. Thus overall, it should be a long-lived episode.

with the return of El Nino hopefully we (here on Big Island) will get more norths and wests which are far more preferable to the generic northwests that have been predominant over the last few seasons. this is a very hopeful sign that a good season is on the way

lookin at a solid 4 days of overhead lighthouse

and the inevitable early season beatings

K-man · Post by **K-man** » Wed Sep 09, 2009 5:48 am

Models are saying we'll get that swell around sat/sun.Looks pretty good sized with a decent period.These short period swells have been gutless.Be nice to get a few that have some push.Naturally it comes on the weekend.... :roll: Hopefully the wind will back off,get to hike in to our more remote spots.

cheers.

KneeBumps · Post by **KneeBumps** » Fri Sep 11, 2009 8:55 am

Barrelfest yesterday in Frisco NC. Capesurf alerted us around noon (thanks Bruce!), so Landlocked and I hit it as the tide was dropping. Caught chest high makeable barrels in a hard offshore wind for several hours until I sighted the landlord feeding outside around dusk and decided we'd had enough. Forgot the camera cable, so the pics will have to wait until we return.
East facing beaches are seeing an overhead NNE swell and are still out of control with drift. NC 12 is overwashed at S-turns with tide and swell. Waiting for the cleanup this afternoon, as winds have just turned offshore this AM. Hoping to catch up with Jimithesaint Sat or Sun.

K-man · Post by **K-man** » Fri Sep 11, 2009 1:20 pm

Our NW is just starting to build.Low high tide early am.Don't move much thru the tide.Model says 16 sec. period,,not bad .We'll see what transpiresI see your on there kenny..Get ready! to rumble..with the crowd... :roll: :lol:
Will be on one of the reefs....

cheers

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Surf Report 2009

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