We had a fun south side session today,about 6-8' facesand grinding pretty hard into the no water zone. Myself, Ler, Barry, Matt(ska),Greg?, Wayne, and Backer shooting from the beach awaiting the outcome of his shoulder injury, get better quick I believe you have a title to defend and some waves to kill
Max
Surfed Magnolia between tower 7 and 6 at 9 am today. 5-8 faces. Offshore, top to bottom grinding walled peaks. Out going tide = water going up the faces = holding you up-up-up until you finally drop or free fall. I ate it more today than any day all year. But the ones I made were insane. Very similar to Jetty Rd. Monterey. One wave eat it wraped the leash around my thumb and almost took it off. Cold water helped, sort of.
Bolsa Main Tower: Easy 10ft+ sets waaaaay outside. Rhino Chasers were making it look like Hawaii. Very few were out at Bolsa. Bolsa Jetty showed how far the sand bars go out at least as far as the pier is long or more.
I believe you casey,....anderson st this morning was giant walls with glimpses of backdoor pipe... paddled out with my one boogie friend and no one else around for acres...
seal was fun, best i seen it tooo long ,,, great to see everyone out there... Thanks to Tomb for shooting pics...
Tide is the master, tide can be a disaster...-Dub side of the Moon
I have to agree John, alot of shots of Wiamea make it look quite do-able(but scary), but when a photographer captures the right angle those little fantasies get packed away
We had pretty high expectations for this swell, but they didn't quite pan out. However, we got Baja Malibu 3 feet overhead with DOH sets and top-to-bottom heaving barrels, which was a pretty fkin good day.
As for expectations, the swell didn't have the size we were hoping for, but it was really clean and really powerful. It was quirky as well - it was hitting some spots with consistent DOH sets and then other spots close by would be head high - you really had to look around.
Add in the only sunny glassy day we had in the last 10, and we did really well, with a second glassy session at a reef further south.
Crowd has dwindled up this area.The water temp and cool morning temps Keep the less hardy at bay. solo sat morn on the reefs.. Another body would have been fine.Surfed the mid channel yesterday.Small,clean,just a few locals.
Christmas cheer and then a new year.New beginning...
Surfed really fun 4-6', glassy, consistent rights and lefts, in the afternoon all by myself with a visiting Scott Wessling for about 3 hours!
Oh yeah, one guy came out towards the end of our sesh!
Mr. Wessling amazed me as he paddled out on his Stubb-Vector and took some of the larger sets.
Best session in a while!
Happy Christmas all!
Nice being local!Noticed the wind shifted from s to nw,bump slop cleaned up nicely.Outgoing rip made them stand up nicely.No competion.. Picked the ones I wanted,fun 3 hr session.Running up the ramp;here comes the groms!How was it chuckie?Just laughed... Love to torture the little rats every now and again..
Surfed 6 - 10' MLnding today; semi-glassy, offshore, thick and steep at mid-beach. Most guys just sitting on the dunes watching it. Figured I I had to give it a try as that's the most size/power I've surfed it. Lots of closeouts. Had to be very choosy. Got cleaned up after taking every wave--why is that? Last cleanup set snapped my leash and I got the nice long swim in cold water. A 90-minute session that left me exhausted.
John, Scotty, Mike and the rest who surf here regularly--my hats off to you.