How is the surf so far this year in your part of the world ?

surfhorn · Post by **surfhorn** » Tue Feb 24, 2004 8:16 am

Mammoth is a great place to ride. I took a little time off and lived there Jan-May of 1976. I skiied so much. Did a bit of backcountry also. But missed KBing too much.

ScottMac · Post by **ScottMac** » Tue Feb 24, 2004 10:31 am

Steeno · Post by **Steeno** » Sun Feb 29, 2004 12:15 am

hooraay.....we finally got something to talk about. after the worst summer in living memory, we went from nothing to monster overnight. friday morning just past, saw one of the biggest swells to hit our area in about 18 months. We had our biggest waves hitting our reefs, peaking at 12metres or about 35 feet, with constant 15 to 20 feet waves along the whole coast. I was working half an hour from home when a call was made to me that Redsands a disgusting hollow reef wave (10 minutes from where I was working) was firing alltime at 10 to 15 plus feet and breaking below sea level. I finished my work consultation and scrambled towards redsands, my phone was ringing hot. I was trying to get hold of Simon Farrer who lives about 5 minutes drive from this break, to come and surf with me or to film it. I nearly went through 3 stop signs on the way there, my heart was thumping so hard the adrenalin was making me oblivious to my surroundings (dangerous). coming around the corner to see this spot doing its thing, is mind threatning to say the least. First thing I saw was a triple overhead wave, bottom out and explode with one of the Abberton brothers from Maroubra in Sydney come flying out with his hands in the air. I sped around the road, pulled into the carpark, and ran over the hill to see 3 waverunners doing to-ins with all the pros from Sydney, fffaaaarrrkkkin blowins. There where a handful of locals out there, with these ski's dangerously pulling these pros into the line-up and just missing the locals by a whisker with their waverunners. Mind you these guys where shredding pulling into ridiculously thick below sea level tubes, with the reef coming out of the water. It was a massively heavy situation with the hardcore paddle crew trying to keep their waves and the pros doing 2 or 3 carves on open green walls before dropping into what looked like a 3 storey high building going below sea level with the rock ledges poping their heads above water. Amazing to watch, I finally got Simon and told him not to worry about it, there was no chance of me getting waves out there with that crew in the water, and to be honest with you after seeing a couple of the paddle crew go headfirst into the reef and get washed in, I decided to do the sensible thing and put my head between my legs and go home

it was truley amazing, it is one of the heaviest reef waves on the east coast of australia, but not for me this day, it scared the shat out of me. Without a ski it was death, the Billabong film crew, and various pro photographers where there-so look out in up and coming mags/films.
Mind you the next couple of days turned on some fun waves in the 4-8 foot range, with today having crystal offshores blowing, light green water and a beautiful 4 foot perfect wedging barrels, surfing today with me was Braden Perry (awesome freesurfing kneelo-as good as anyone), Albert Munoz, Chayne Simpson, hooting at each other for hours. And now back to work again, but feeling good

farnzilla · Post by **farnzilla** » Sun Feb 29, 2004 6:23 am

Wow Steen...I was holding my breath just reading that.
Touch wood, the fun stuff hangs in there for a while. It seems to be feast or famine lately.
Farns.

Smokin Rock · Post by **Smokin Rock** » Sun Feb 29, 2004 11:06 am

Brendan · Post by **Brendan** » Sun Feb 29, 2004 1:39 pm

We had 4 - 6 foot of perfection at Pello's on the central coast NSW yesterday. 13 Kneelos had a good time. Started out as a mini competition but ended up a freesurf.

scoop · Post by **scoop** » Mon Mar 15, 2004 2:49 am

dO i TRUST THIS PICTURE.........UM.....NO

tony

jonny · Post by **jonny** » Mon Mar 15, 2004 4:06 am

Of course its real !!!!..and i didnt let the fact that i live in newcastle sway my opinion whatsoever ...

was out at Bar today..there was 2 other kneelos in the water and a guy asked me was there a kneelo comp on later ?. i said no & why ? he said coz he had never seen 3 kneelos in the same spot in his life ! and he wasnt a youngster either...

jonny..

DarcyM · Post by **DarcyM** » Mon Mar 15, 2004 8:04 pm

I had an arm-numbing mind-blowing full zen fun surf out at Windansea today. Fun, sunny, glassy till about 2 pm, 3 hour session with chest to head high sets and really light crowd.

Got the most amazing turn around to late drop ("what? You're not going? Hell yes I'll go!") that after the white water spat me out at the bottom I looked up to see the most beautiful left wall opening up before me. If I'd seen it before I'd committed to it, I might have thought I was too deep and chosen to go right for a surer chance at a safe shoulder. As it was I had plently of speed to make it and rode all the way to the inside with a fun floater section that got me an extra turn or two before it closed out completely.

Next wave, even better. Cleaner take off, top turn to slight fade, PERFECT left bowl over the inside suck out dragging left hand slightly -- woo hoo! Then hit the lip at the end section and air drop to the bottom, made it like I meant it. Couple of more turns off the top to the inside ... whew!

3 hour session. I only got out because I could barely move my arms anymore. I can barely type ... good day... happy birthday to ME!

mutiny · Post by **mutiny** » Mon Mar 15, 2004 10:38 pm

darcy sounds like a great session you had, it's been crrrrrappp up here in hb. just curious, were you riding that board of erics?
tomb

red · Post by **red** » Mon Mar 15, 2004 10:53 pm

Steen,
Good to hear the drought broke. Nice description.

But I looked at the weather maps again and it looks as though the drought's on again. More connected highs on the way.

We've (Victoria) had southerly winds the entire summer - hardly a day of offshores. You've had no waves - the two are related.
Normally the big highs move eastwards, followed by a low, then another high...
We get offshores as the low approaches and you get waves as the lows move past NZ.
This year the highs have just been ridging out over the SE coast, with one connecting to the next - creating a sort of band of high pressure systems and pushing the lows way too south for you guys to have swell.

I imagine the weather pattern also affected mid north coast, which is why its been blowing S/SE there so much.

Luckily we almost always have swell - just had to get used to surfing onshore, or sneaking into the nooks and crannies..

DarcyM · Post by **DarcyM** » Tue Mar 16, 2004 7:45 am

just curious, were you riding that board of erics?

Yeah, Tom - it goes unreal in these waves! Hope we get something for Bolsa on Saturday! See you then!

Ler · Post by **Ler** » Tue Mar 16, 2004 12:43 pm

Hi Darcy,
I'm glad you scored! I aint never surfed Wind'n'Sea. Seen it fun a couple times, but crowded. Good for you.

Mike

Kneeboard Surfing USA Community Forum

How is the surf so far this year in your part of the world ?

How is the surf this year in your part of the world?

real ?!?!

good fun surf today

eric's board

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