Surf Report 2009

General discussion area for kneeboard surfing and general surf related topics

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WillP
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Post by WillP »

Arrived in Ecuador this afternoon and am heading to Montañita on thursday after I get through my meetings tomorrow morning. Hopefully I get some waves. I'll try to post some pics if I can figure out how to use this retarded keyboard!
Masons
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Post by Masons »

Rincon breaking 4-6' today on a NW wrapping storm swell.

Winds turned offshore at about noon and mixed with heavy rain made some stormy yet epic right shoulders. The bad weather kept the crowds down to about a dozen locals off indicator.

Rain curtain all the way in, past the chop and out for the roundhouse, top turn for speed, rinse and repeat... good day of Con'

8)
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southpeakbrad
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Post by southpeakbrad »

well done Mason, you guys are OVERdue!
jdc
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Post by jdc »

A FEW WAVES AROUND THE 2 TO 3 FT MARK THIS MORNING

however the real news is it is currently 46.2c
never ever been this hot before
i like surfing
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Kev
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Post by Kev »

like jdc.
I to was out this morning
on the Peninsula at St Andrews
I very strange morning with winds from all directions and and inconsistent swell
sets were bigger than 3ft and as the tide dropped they did close out
and made for lots of rips and swirls
took a few on the head
but did get some sections worth the effort

once that north wind did kick in things changed fast but the wind was obviously going to blow things out

around midday I headed home to Melbourne and during the drive the wind
rose to extreme in both speed and heat

wash my gear down and it was dry practically right away
wind was so dry and strong ... very distrurbing
I'm in suburbia but had a couple of gum trees break and come down

can't imagine what it was like for those in the country looking at a fire front heading their way
:shock:

hottest day ever and probably our worst fire day of a life time
the news is coming now of just how bad things were and still are
I think parts of the state got to 48 C
lost houses , even towns gone ... people are dead ... very very bad
jdc
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Post by jdc »

:shock: :shock: :shock:

hey kev I had no idea of the situation beyond the heat until I read your post.

we just battoned down during the day with the kids getting in and out of a cold bath, fans on, and braving outside to use recycled water to save plants.,

the dog would not come from under the house.


took one kid and the dog to the beach last night


got the kids to bed and then just recovered



read your post this morning and then went to a news site....SHITE!!!!!


towns i used to holiday at as a kid are gone :shock: :cry:


there is thunder rumbling over the water at Ocean Grove just now so maybe we will get a storm.


but to think in 2009 up to 40 people can be killed in fires in a day in a modern country and whole rural towns destroyed is a shock
i like surfing
jdc
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Post by jdc »

its now raining, grey and about 26c less than yesterday
i like surfing
skansand
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Post by skansand »

Surfed Seal ss today....saw a kneelo get a couple good rides amongst like 12 sponges and got stoked on it...

we change and come back over the hill.... EvErY ONEs Gone! , the beach was totally deserted!

Wind dies, swells growing and we got a Tidal push coming out of the negatives!

instantly we see a 5' slabby barrel spit hard and a swell pops up on the jetti but doesnt break but it was a great site....


Rode my 5'3 fish and got shacked ....

It was great getting seal with NO Crowd at all , been a long time...just me and 2 friends the whole sesh....
Tide is the master, tide can be a disaster...-Dub side of the Moon
Masons
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Post by Masons »

El Capitan - 4-6' and fun.

Surfed El Cap today on the low tide and caught some fun storm surf. A lot of chop on the water but it glassed off a "bit" toward the evening. Surprisingly had it for about an hour with 5 guys out, beautiful.

Some pics in album
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maxb
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Post by maxb »

ska, what time was that? i rode about 5 waves at about 2:30-3:00 couple little barrels. went to oxnard this a.m. with kenny and scored again. picking up the whole time there. as the tide dropped it got better, left there at 11 offshores the whole time HH+ on the biggest sets. checked the other side of the harbor ( jim you know where :wink: ) north and found well over head thick rights and lefts, and after all that found little 3' south side bowls at home
one very good day 8) max
i'll put some pics up
kbing newport
jim richardson
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Post by jim richardson »

There are no waves in Oxnard! Max I dont know what your talkin about north of where? :shock: 8) :D
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JackG
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Post by JackG »

Biggest surf of the season on Saturday at my local. It jumped from shoulder high with a little chop to waaaaay overhead and closing out from the time I checked it to when I paddled out. Made for some eXcItInG take offs. Should have gone to Hammonds, or ElCap with MasonS. On the plus side I now know what the top end is for my latest Flashy. Sunday was much cleaner, got a couple with three or four turns before the tide and wind killed it.
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Jimbo
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Post by Jimbo »

Went down to see Mom today at sunset. Lo and behold the Salt Creek area was going off! Big, Glassy and peaky. Anyone score?
skansand
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Post by skansand »

I surfed salt creek today Jimbo! Going Off ! Took a big set on the head and my leash broke. :x Good hold down.. :)

much heavier then the big day at steamer lane i gotta say...only caught two waves and i was beat :D

MaxB, i mustve goten in minutes after you got out :roll:
Tide is the master, tide can be a disaster...-Dub side of the Moon
jim richardson
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Post by jim richardson »

Blackies today the dirtiest run off water and good surf combo I think I have ever seen. Brown barrels with schools of brown trout floating in streaks through out the line up. UUUUMMUMM Tastie! :shock: :shock: :shock: :( :( There were also streaks of an orange foamy froth coloring some of the outside sets. After being on the North shore today was a rude welcome home. :shock: :cry: I should of paddled out with you on SoSide Tom B. at least there the water was almost green. :roll:
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