Surf Report 2011

[maxb]

Well it looks like we have a pretty sizable south on us at the moment.
Didn't get to surf today ,but tomorrow is another story. I heard a few reports of some pretty good waves at a few out of the way spots, but I have my sights set on a nasty wave we call the Wedge o dark thirty tomorrow.
Hopefully this low tide crap doesn't mess it up.
Anyone that wants to join me is more than welcome
Hope the shape is decent.
Max
see you in the A.M. Mike

[Mike Fernandez]

Big south right now, bigger tomorrow. Raging current in HB, so I went to Newport today. Let's just say heavy, and I was a little nervous. At least eight foot on the sets, and lots of water moving with some big rips to avoid.
Somehow my fin hit me in the shoulder, cut my suit, a nice black and blue slice on my skin. Funny I never felt it until I saw my wetsuit this afternoon. I guess too much adrenaline flowing.
I was indeed lucky, but ready for more. Not the smoothest conditions for this size, but better than most of the crap I've been surfing for four months.

[Mark Ramirez]

Max, the big south was on the 5 O' clock news today! They showed some
very big sets all being bodysurfed! One guy was interviewed saying
that he's been hurt a couple of times at the Wedge. Most of the waves
looked like they were closing out.

[Bob Gove]

Scripps was 2-3' oh ocassional waves outside the pier on the low tide, great conditions. Randy got some good stuff further north, bigger, but with heavy dues. Mexico reports were sketchy-4-5' oh but too much windsell in the mix. Glad I surfed where I did.

[C J Gagner]

Got some thursday eve. couple of bomb drops (heart in my throat) was a little sketched but man it felt good after. The current flat out wore me out. My wife brought dinner to the beach took a while before I could eat. Great afternoon!

[badknees1]

Even though it won't be as big Sat Morning any idea where alot of the Cove people will be Sat Morning? I'd like to video you guys and post on youtube. Newport, Wedge or HB? Where might you guys set up at. Newport I am not real familiar with...why am I typing like Yoda? I am too out of shape to hit this one. but I'd like to film it.

[maxb]

Surfed Wedge this a m ,pretty big on the sets with alot of water moving up the faces, made for some crazy takeoffs. Only got one big one and a few tweeners, age has made me very picky. Or I have lost my sack somewhere,not sure which.
Had a good time anyway. Maybe I will see some of you out there next time. I did see Sebastian (seabass) Perez out on his body board.
Max

[Akio Matsumoto]

Hi Max the photo that i seen of you Surfing ,you have not lost your sack,You have to be Picky to be surfing the wedge, If you dont You will get hurt Or Die, Max you just Geting wiser.Get Big Surf When Its Pumping, This Winter Has Been Crap Down Our Area. Cheers Max Say Hi To Kenny & Every One

[maxb]

Hey Akio ,how are you ,appreciate the confidence boost
where did you see a pic at

[gumby]

Got a few at really good pleasure point.2-3ft oh on the sets Best speed run wave in a while for me.

[eqKneelo]

El Porto was about as fun as it gets on a South.
here's some video (all stand-ups... I was up the beach surfing a peak by myself I had a dozen dry tubes at least.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wO17w-5W ... r_embedded

[Mike Fernandez]

Trust me, Max has plenty of sack! Just playing a smart game.
Badknees, I'm going to Newport, no current, and I would not suggest you go frolicking around the impact zone of 15-20 footers for some water shots at the Wedge. It's hard just trying to get out of the water there.

[badknees1]

Shooting strictly from the beach, too much enrgia for me. I saw those photos of you on the 19th. Awesome. I want to accumulate some solid kneelo video I can put on the website ala youtube. you know for posterity. Hope to see you around Newport.

[Mike Fernandez]

Surfed Malibu the last couple of days. About 4-5ft faces, and awesome!
Water was a chilly 50f though, but I was getting at least 30 second rides just working the pocket. Unreal wave, it's so perfect the way it breaks. It's the only place in the world where I could get dropped in on by two loggers, but they trim out, and are about 10-20ft ahead of me, and I am just bashing the lip over and over again in the pocket, and when it's all over, I am laughing uncontollably rejoicing in the fun I just had.
Cracking it at 5:30 am in cold water helps control the crowds, but there were still 40-50 people on it by 9am.
Afterwards I shared a cigar, and chatted with Gary Busey the actor (Big Wednesday) at the Malibu Cigar Lounge.

[Bob]

Sounds fun. Unseasonable, south wind ruining a good swell here.
Rideable but...

Tomorrow sounds promising.