Funny how that works, K-man. Or not Up here we've had a solid 6 to 8 ft. west, northwest swell since last Thursday. East winds and mostly sunny skies. It's been the best fall and early winter in years. One board broke in two and the other 3 dinged. Such is the price of extended perfection
What I notice about these low pressure systems down here.They blow out of the south/se when they get up there,they're offshore!...We all get our turn eventually.... :lol:.
We had a solid week of small decent surf prior to this storm.Still living off the fat.Wind shifted back to onshore.....
I'm currently in Ireland for the first time. Pam and I are spending a week here, seeing what it's all about. Today we ventured out to the west coast to the Lahinch/Cliffs of Moher/Doolin area (Moher are those high cliffs from which you see those massive tow-in slab flicks), then we drove north along the coast for another 25 miles. We saw a lot of waves from 3 - 8', many really inviting and surfable, and not a soul out. Maybe the 2 knot onshores were too much for them, I don't know. This weekend it's forecast to go up to about 20' when a storm brushes up.
Pam told me over and over again how nice it was to go somewhere with me without having a surfboard along and always having that factor into what we did...
And how we should have just such a vacation every year...
Actually, it's indeed been great time But I hope to come back here sometime for a surf!
2- 4' mostly head high with a couple bigger peaks - very junky and lots of random peaks/sections. Again the rain died and the sun came out around noon but didn't take the chop out or the funky windswell.
Fairly fun with about 5 guys out off the indicator, caught a few decent rides but the chop killed a lot of good shoulders.
Emma Wood, Hobson's and the area actually looked really fun this morning, 2-4' beach break with some nice peaks and barrels. Saw a lot of guys out just north of Overhead.
Water is NASTY, I'm building a nice headache as I write this.
Rincon was 3-5' this evening, sometimes 20 minutes between set waves(very little between sets). Counted 41 guys from indicator to rivermouth, including 3 kneeriders, when I was getting out. Mushier than normal outside but usual rivermouth sections were hollow and quick.
Too inconsistent though with 40ish guys out the whole time and Kelly Slater inside the cove tearing the place to pieces. He gets ALL the waves he wants
Greatest part today was watching one kneerider burn a surfer badly on a nice set. She's a local older lady wearing churchills on a dark green board who still charges !
Masons - when I was up there last year that same lady was burning everyone - including me!!! She just goes when she wants to. After a bit I just decided that if she is going I am too - since she kinda just goes straight it worked out unreal. I got a lot of great waves that day!!!!
how that works, K-man. Or not 
Up here we've had a solid 6 to 8 ft. west, northwest swell since last Thursday. East winds and mostly sunny skies. It's been the best fall and early winter in years. One board broke in two and the other 3 dinged. Such is the price of extended perfection 
I'm reminded of the words of a great sage, so many years ago... " Everyone knows this is nowhere ".
