Yeah, Max. Thick, heavy, big... A lot of water moving around. Extremely large barrels. You're right Max, THIS is what kneeboarding is all about.
The set waves were... Well, ask Casey and Ed!
Round 2 in the morning? See ya there.
Surfed the Cove today, only Tom and I out. Knar was the word. One wave tore part of my deck pad off, another ripped my hat off and broke it. It's cooling down a bit.
I am a traveller of both time and space, a weaver in and out of dreams, I see worlds seldom seen.
Surfed 13 beach this am and came home frustrated at the slack 1 to 2 ft conditions.
Looked up two "on location" surf reports with both "experts" calling it "fun 2 to 3"
It's good to be Positive but I'd be a little pissed to have driven any more than 20 minutes based on these reports. Some punters may even do the full 90 minute drive from MElbourne based on them. F@$#!
North reefs were out...wind.The channel was about as good as it's going to get at HH...Nice speedy left.Little rippers.Purple haze sunset till dark.Red tide...plugged nose,itchy throat/ears....coughing/sneezing..Got thrown out of the house... Slept in the man barn.
Hoot!Another sweet day.Paid the 6$ to cross the GG bridge.Jumped in at the corner.got out at the dunes.Some a bit Oh.Light OS's Small crowd.Heaps of fun lefts and rights.No redtide....
Did the 12:30-3 shift yesterday mid-beach. Fun! Winds got a little funky towards the end, but not really a factor. 'Bob,' I didn't see you again (I had just paddled out when I did see you...)
Sunday was a zoo at that spot Don posted recently. By zoo, it was Don, Jeff Martinez, his daughter and me. The rest of the beach was empty. As was the parking lot, and the parking lot of the first place we stopped... Don IS allergic to crowds! Beautiful country!
Just surfed some of the cleanest, best shaped smaller (3-5' faces) Ocean Beach I've ever seen. Glassy w/ light offshores. Just a few guys out within 100 yards of me. Lots of great waves, so worth ditching work a few hours early when I saw it on the surfcam--my eyes just about popped out of my head! Got about 1.25 hours before it was too dark to continue. I'm sure tomorrow morning will be great, too.