KNEEBOARDS AND CLOSEOUTS

kneelingBROTHA · Post by **kneelingBROTHA** » Thu Feb 23, 2006 5:42 pm

Okay all, as you know, I'm from a sponging background. My modus opororandi is to pull into heaving closeouts. One day I was out in the lineup, and I told my friend that I thought I sucked, because I don't do all the flips and rolls that everyone else does. But he said, "No you don't. You'll take off on ANYTHING." And its true. I do, if it throws, and I've paddled out, I'll go for it. But now that Mark Wesseling has graciously given me a kneeboard (1 week and one day and counting until my sinus surgery recheck, and possible permission to get back in the water. YEEEEEEAH!), I need to know the reality of whether or not the board will last until the next owner if I pull into big, heaving closeouts. Its just something I'm used to doing, and would like to continue doing so (there's more closeouts in the south bay than you can shake a stick at!), but if I need to just look for those clean, lined up ones--that's an important thing to know!

Thanks!

fooj · Post by **fooj** » Thu Feb 23, 2006 8:39 pm

Marc,
If you do that you will eventually break the board. Trust me. With boards being as valuable as they are, makeable waves are where it's at.

kneelingBROTHA · Post by **kneelingBROTHA** » Thu Feb 23, 2006 8:50 pm

Thanks for the info, seriously. I know that some psycho surfers just go for it on the closeouts, but usually they are either A) Trust fund babies, B) older south bay locals that have "made it" financially, or C) people with sponsorships.

I'll probably start riding it over at RAT point, move on up to the Cove and then hit Hags. It doesn't make as much sense to ride the kneeboard that I've been blessed with at closeout beachbreak; I'll just be doing a lot of straightening out.

We do have our days when the waves really cooperate and the sandbars are rocking up and down the beach, though.

To qoute my surf camp instructor when I was in 9nth grade, after seeing me paddle for every wave out there, "You bodyboarders will go on anything!"

I guess I'll have to re-adjust my surfing style.

Thanks Jfoog and THANKS MARK!

--marc

kneelingBROTHA · Post by **kneelingBROTHA** » Thu Feb 23, 2006 8:56 pm

PS--IMPORTANT--SOUTH BAY KNEEBOARDERS: Where do YOU suggest starting to kneeboard around here? I'm thinking RAT point, Porto on small/medium sized days, The Cove, Hag's, Lunada (jusssst kiddding...), mostly taking advantage of the fact that there are some semi-un-localized pv spots around Torrance.

Scott · Post by **Scott** » Thu Feb 23, 2006 10:01 pm

The other concept to keep in mind is there is quite difference between getting worked in a closeout barrel with a sponge as opposed to a fiberglass kneeboard: i.e. with which vehicle would you rather get a surprise whack in the head, ribs and/or groin?

If you've got the guts to take off big, that is what you want to transfer over from the sponge to the kneeboard.

Have fun!

JackG · Post by **JackG** » Thu Feb 23, 2006 11:37 pm

The other concept to keep in mind is there is quite difference between getting worked in a closeout barrel with a sponge as opposed to a fiberglass kneeboard: i.e. with which vehicle would you rather get a surprise whack in the head, ribs and/or groin?

Um, yeah. Watch that head.

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Something to keep in mind about a kb vs a sponge is the speed and drive you can get with a solid board with fins just doesn't compare to a sponge. I made the switch last summer, and couldn't be more stoked. You may be surprised by, and should become confident in the fact, that waves that were closeouts on a sponge merely become sections that are closeouts on a kb. Just get out from under the lip, hold on through the whitewash (which takes some practice), and you'll find yourself on a clean shoulder. And then do it again.

I grew up in the South Bay, BTW. Went to Sooo High, grew up sponging and body surfing (and before that on surf mats) at Rat. I'd love to hit Hagerty's on a strong NW swell on a kb.

ShaunMurphy · Post by **ShaunMurphy** » Fri Feb 24, 2006 1:11 pm

Get a long leash too if u still want to pull into a closeout ( if u cant help yourself) and make shur u get as far away from the board as u can when u start the tumble cycle. Sometimes what i do if i pull into a closeout is i lean straight back and like air drop i guess (board still on knees) so my board and I are verticle and then i dont have to really worry about my board cus it just goes straight up and i find that i dont get thrown around as much . But that only works for smaller waves , like chest high and smaller.

ScottMac · Post by **ScottMac** » Fri Feb 24, 2006 1:47 pm

wino · Post by **wino** » Fri Feb 24, 2006 1:58 pm

Pulling into and riding closeout tubes is the best training to become a good tube rider. I love closeouts as long as you have a second or two of view time. Anything less and you can/will get pounded.
The ticket for not gettng killed is to ride the tube out until the lip takes your board away. The result more often than not is that you get recycled out the back of the wave unscathed.

SFKneelo · Post by **SFKneelo** » Fri Feb 24, 2006 2:14 pm

Like Wino sez... I think there was a thread on how to bail out of closeouts. I'd look, but I'm WAY too lazy! Actually, no time at the moment.

Beeline2.0 · Post by **Beeline2.0** » Fri Feb 24, 2006 2:40 pm

kneelingBROTHA · Post by **kneelingBROTHA** » Fri Feb 24, 2006 3:21 pm

I guess the consensus is to avoid absolutely closed out waves. I think I'll do that, the "blue bottle" needs to make it to another owner...or at least have a fair and reasonable chance of doing so!

Man O' War · Post by **Man O' War** » Fri Feb 24, 2006 4:14 pm

The "blue bottle" is a tough board, but Tony's legendary 12' FREE FALL at the Bowery took its toll. Tony (Scoop) is not a little guy. That set of stress fractures up in the belly area is telling you something.

Tom Linn · Post by **Tom Linn** » Fri Feb 24, 2006 5:53 pm

I disagree with most of these guys. Close-outs rock on a kneeboard, and, with proper execution, they are safe and sane. I surf Salt Creek which is 90% close-outs 90% of the time. I log tons of tunnel time and plan on finishing deep inside with no way out. That said, I haven't broken a board in over 10 years. Here are a few tips:

1. Use a short (6') thick leash with little elasticity. Don't use those thin, comp leases as they just strech and strech before they finally come back and bean you. Short and thick is my motto when seeking insertion into both types of tubes (LOL).

2. Ride deep, bail late. Best to hang in the tube until the foam ball takes the board out from under you. At that instant, throw your body forward so that you land well in front of your board. The result is either a) a thrashing well away from your board, or b) you pop out the back unscathed. Also best to land as flat as possible to reduce the likelihood of bouncing off the bottom.

3. Ride a board with tons of drive coming from the fins. No need to be loose and free.

See my pic posted on 1/26/06 at 8:17 AM for a classic deep close out tube. I layed out in front of the board, took my lumps on the bottom and came up laughing.

Tom Linn · Post by **Tom Linn** » Fri Feb 24, 2006 5:55 pm

Also, my avartar pic to the left was a very nice close out tube. Love that green room feeling! The more your tube ride close-outs the better you are when they become makeable.