COLSE OUT

[Ler]

I used to love closeouts. I would let the good shape go to my buddies. now I'm scared....


Ler

[surfhorn]

I gave up close outs and the 'inside' section when I about broke my leg.

Back in 1990 a huge south hit 26th Ave so I put up a 'Gone Surfing' sign in my surf shop's window and grabbed my KB. Rode a ton of 8 foot left grinders. Caught a bit outside wave and was tearing it up all the way across the beach. Then there was the big inside section standing up in front of the 26th Ave stairs (of course, all the bros were watching...). So I pulled into the barrel.

The wave exploded around me and I caught a rail right across my shin. Couldn't believe the pain..... I swore that it was broken. I hobbled around for days.

Which gave me food for thought. There I was in my late 30's, a wife and 3 kids under 8 years old- and the sole provider for my family- taking death barrels. Well, that ended my days of take-off-no-matter-what surfing.

But I do miss those barrels somedays.....

[Jimbo]

Isn't that why they invented insurance

[DarcyM]

AFLAC!

[surfhorn]

Whats that line from "Green Fried Tomatos:
"Face it girls, I'm older than you and have more insurance."

After KBing for so many years, I don't need to ride closeouts. I just surf only the best point breaks and take all the best set waves. Age does have it's rewards.

[skansand]

close outs can be the best part of the wave....seconds go on for eternity...you wont remember a cutback arter a week...but i remember closeouts from lastr year.....8' aliso creek...riding over inches of water....more barrel time in one day then you could get at the superbank...

[Beeline2.0]

..

[SFKneelo]

Huh?

I've had three compressed vertebrae and a couple blown knees... scalped, scarred, lesions, closed ears, funky knots on feet and knees, and even a case of sunburn or two. Heck, maybe even a case of alimony!



WOOOHOOO!