How is the surf so far this year in your part of the world ?

[Scott]

MacDonald, if you want some early big waves, drive up to SF like I did today.

I surfed with Don Harris this afternoon at pretty sizable Ocean Beach, certainly the biggest day I've surfed there. Punching through the seemingly infinite lines of whitewater was the worst experience I've ever had getting out anywhere in over in 28 years of surfing. I had to take on about 100 waves, literally, over about 25 minutes of constant paddling, before finally getting out into the lineup. Twice I thought I had finally made it only to take a clean up set on the head, and getting blasted all the way back into the inside impact zone. Really brutal! I kept wanting to just give up and paddle in, but I've never done that before that I can remember. But there didn’t seem to be any relief in sight. I was constantly having to ditch my board on the bigger waves. I kept coming up after the more brutal waves expecting to see my beloved Blast in two pieces (and no Clarke blanks!!), but it held itself together. Anyway, I finally had a long enough lull to get out, utterly completely exhausted. Meanwhile, Don had zipped out in just about 5+ minutes, like he always does (he and Bob Schiff are incredible paddlers at OB), and quickly surfed a number of waves, knowing I was probably still getting pounded on the inside. Finally, he got concerned and went in looking for me, eventually walked back to the car, and from there saw me on the outside getting a couple of waves before he drove away. I’m not sure it was all worth the thrashing for the waves I got, but it’s another one of those memories I'll cherish. Don and I had a good talk about it all later over the phone...

Well, this is what winter surf is all about.

[ScottMac]

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[stemple]

Scott,

You just experienced the OB crowd control system. Once it gets over ten foot that beach can dole it out or play nice. Sometimes luck is what is needed. Timing and starting position are very crucial when paddling out at sizeable OB. If you don't get the rip within 10 minutes, I find it best to prone back to the beach, take a rest and go look for an active rip, and try again.

If anything OB can't be muscled (....maybe by Don and Bob ), sometimes retreating and regrouping works. Everybody I know that has surfed OB for awhile has a story just like yours, welcome to the club.

[SFKneelo]

Maybe not!

I've been rejected plenty o' times!

It looked like it was firing. Did Bill L. hook up with you guys, Scott?

Scott, got your VM, I'll call in a bit. Looks like another week of fun. Coming up here again?

Syd, that was a pretty fun stretch last week. How was Friday when we were leaving and you were going out? Same ? as Scott... going back this week? When?

[BillL]

Hey Guys,
I surfed the Beach Sunday in the morning for a few hours before rushing to catch my plane that wound up being 2 hours late! The surf was stomping!! The only thing I could compare it to was Sunset without a channel, and with big bitchen lefts too! How's that paddle out,it was relentless. One guy said ,"I feel like a winner just making it out here".I rode a 5'10" fish that Bud made me ten years ago and it handled like a champ.Actually I think the size of the board was an asset cuz I could duck dive better without the added volume. I thought Sat. was even better,in the morning it just got bigger and better as the day went on and the current got more and more relentless. My brother in law Dave and I surfed 3 1/2 hrs in the am, took a nap, and surfed in the avo until dark and it was big, glassy and perfect!! What a great 4 days of surf, I'll be back in 10 days.I love that place!! Bill

[Scott]

Great story, Bill, and nice advice, Syd. I may give OB another go this Saturday a.m. as more solid swell is on the way. Spoke with Don again today and he tells me he now regrets not paddling out at mid-beach on Sunday. We went out at Sloat Street--the easier area to paddle out. Mid-beach was even bigger and more brutal, and that's what Don regrets having passed on. Sheeeeesssssss! I'm 51, and startin' to feel it. All you younger guys are total punks and I resent every one of you!!

And any of you aussies who could have made that OB paddle out yesterday without swim fins...well, I can't even write the thoughts I have for you!!

[Johnny]

Big Sunday SF:

[kneecaps]

Look at that left

How many people were out there?
I don't see anyone.

[fooj]

Finally my home break did what it is supposed to do during the winter. Beautiful 3-5' lines wrapping from the outside all the way to the shorebreak, with wind blowing straight offshore. There was about 15 guys out mid day so I assume this was a sneaker swell, more North than everyone expected. I'm pretty sure that most of the rest of the island is crap right now with these winds which makes this even sweeter. Caught a few and I'm still smiling now. Hopefully tomorrow this will continue, it may even come up. It'll probably be packed but that's OK, it feels good to score. There's nothing like the comfort of home. IronChefJeff.

[ScottMac]

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[fooj]

He looks sharp in that suit.

[weirdo]

Nice session out Narrabeen yesterday afternoon. Southy has some good banks at the moment.....

[ScottMac]

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[K-man]

Counted up the marked dates in my tidebook.14 days in jan,fun to good;several days were hooooo haaaaa
6 days in feb. .Swell jumped last night,and the reefs were semi out of control.Doc s came down in the morn,only had time for a shorty,naturally it was the sh-ts.KenM was here also,floundering around with the rest of us.

Back out late afternoon,glassed off about 5,1-2 feet and really fun lefts at the groin.Most of the crowd was gone;as were doc and ken...
Another KBer showed up.Riding a short romo tri,told him about the site.
Swell's gonna stick around for a few more day.A bit on the raw side today,probably clean up tomorrow.Weatherman says more OS for tom.no sense working.....HEY , I've put my time in,paid my dues,and besides I'm the boss

cheers