Kneeboard Surfing USA Community Forum

paddled out at the local a few hours ago to see some bloke pull a reo. Looks like slater....nah cant be....sure enough a few strokes later kelly slater paddles past...we raise eye brows at each other...

ah yes of course the bells Classic me thinks. Swell is on the rise and today was a lay day due the predicted epic sessions over the next week.

so ks is having an expression session with a few lads and the swell is on the up (3 to 4) with only a light sea breeze to contend with.

banks are are a bit wobbly so theres a few close outs.

Kel suggest hed would have bought me dinner if id taken the drop on one I pulled out of (local knowledge) so I suggest thats as good as a dare and take the next 4ft freefall...I make it but no dinner offer....quiet night with the mrs and kids booked in anyway so couldna made it!

its worth surfin with such royalty as he and a few younger world tour surfers were holding the peak goin right which left the lefts pretty much to me with a few rights thrown in.

Heaps of people caught on so the stairs up to the car parks filled up...the up shot being kneeboarding got a bit of exposure by default...i did have a high wave count session so figure its a good thing.

anyway to be up close watching airs, insane close out drops into tubes and out again...only he surely, could do it, was a blast. I paddled harder and charged a few just based on the vibe.

A few other locals paddled out after watching for a while with that classic maaaaaate look on their face

ks plays golf apparently and he was off for a round after the session...I suggest Anglsea as there are kangaroos on the fairways but he already had a story about curly drives being impeded by nonchalant local fauna.

finished the session by following on the wave after kel . Bells is in for some good waves over the next week and us mere mortals have some local reefs lined up as well. Today should see me through the autumn winter sessions with a new sense of attack.


aka dorje

" maaaaaate "


sweet timing

perhaps you should have got out early and pointed the camera

That's a good story, Dorje My own encounter with surfings upper echelons came in the form of sharing the line-up with " Mr. Pipeline " Gerry Lopez. He lives and shapes boards in Bend, Oregon. Drawn there by it's great snowboarding. As a lover of great lefts it was inevitable that he would eventually find his way to my favorite left point. My first memory is of him paddling past me ( I was on the peak ) and taking what was rightfully my wave I think as he dropped in I might have made a rude comment, unbecoming of one of my maturity. He then paddled back to the peak, and to my surprise ( and a bit of embarrassment )profusely apologized Well, we got to talking, about Bud ( I was on a Blast ) and how we both had the same name but he was really Gerald and I was really Jerome and the rest of the session was spent SHARING the peak and a good time was had by all. However Not all Seaside locals are as tolerant of outsiders, be they common kooks or visiting royalty Especially outsiders who catch so many waves and surf better than said locals ) It was not long before the poor guy, legend or not, could get a wave without being dropped in on and generally harassed by the locals with their mob mentality. He was not unlike a wounded wildebeest among a pack of hyenas. And for the past few years Mr. Pipeline's Oregon surf experience has been relegated to riding his stand-up paddleboard in the gentle rollers of The Cove, along with the longboarders and kayakers

Hey Kev

wouldna pulled out my camera in face of the thing on the beach going cliciclickclick every time one of the pro lads paddled at something. The minds eye gotsa clear image but!

poor ks, shouldna been hanging with kneelos, got pumped today by a southern nsw lad. I had a great surf today in 3 to 5ft, so maybe i stole a bit of his mojo...hard to describe the vibe out there yesterday really quite a shot for the 40 something attitude...the body needs a break for a day or two after two "full on" sessions...Friday/Sat/sun looking very good at this stage

Dearest Jerome

a local and i considered dropping in on ks but we would have had to of caught him first.

The biggest problem with surfing in general is the continous "he" man bollocks...surfers seem pretty uptight considering. I should qualify that against the genteel kneelos who are mostly refined.

Whilst I would not like to be considered starry eyed, I think it is worth while spending a moment with the highly skilled and or highly successful just for the feel or attempted insight into methodology. You'd think JL would have had a lot to offer by being accepted

cheers

jdc wrote: ... The minds eye gotsa clear image ...
... I think it is worth while spending a moment with the highly skilled ...

excellent
it is good to use the time to ,
just take it all in