Kneelo at Mentawais

frencho · Post by **frencho** » Fri Sep 04, 2009 7:17 am

Here is a cool vid of a kneelo at Mentawais.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mbOUfFTt ... re=related

eqKneelo · Post by **eqKneelo** » Fri Sep 04, 2009 10:50 am

Damn that wave still spooks me.
So thick and hollow and shallow at size.

Has anyone surfed it like 4ft? is it still heavy then?
I only caught it sooooolid 6ft, with 8ft swing wide death sets, at Low tide and a little South Windy.

I was kinda happy when the boat pulled anchor before our 2nd session.

Dunc · Post by **Dunc** » Fri Sep 04, 2009 12:30 pm

That looks like Gigs.

randiego · Post by **randiego** » Fri Sep 04, 2009 1:00 pm

That first turn he does in the pocket is a vertical ripper

Ed - We surfed it a couple of times last summer, mostly small shoulder-high stuff. At that size it's very shallow, and low tide is scary, even though Barry was doing all sorts of whacks and floaters.

I found out the hard way trying a late takeoff which I didn't make. I bounced off the reef and thought I'd cracked a rib I landed so hard. Bob Gove's son Jamie was the surf-guide there last season, and he wouldn't take his boys out there at low tide - they'd go surf somewhere else - he'd also had a an experience with the reef.

I know what you mean about sets swinging wide, it's orientation seems particularly susceptible to it.

Steeno · Post by **Steeno** » Fri Sep 04, 2009 3:39 pm

definately looks like gigs, looks like its from the trip "inside & out" movie

RMcKnee · Post by **RMcKnee** » Sat Sep 05, 2009 7:11 am

Full on commitment to make a big drop like that, as deep as that, and hold that line at the base of that wave with paddlers-out in the way, with all that lip exploding on his inside rail ... and then that casual bottom-turn-top-turn combination with that nonchalant bit of spray off the back ... wonder how that next section turned out for him ... looked like it was getting ready to double-up ...?