Surf Report 2011

C.P.Odom · Post by **C.P.Odom** » Tue Jan 18, 2011 7:04 pm

Some of us wish we did.

Doc Turbo · Post by **Doc Turbo** » Tue Jan 18, 2011 9:01 pm

STORMSURF Surf & Wind Forecast
West_Java 7S 105.0E
Time/Date Surf Size Swell (height/period/dir) Sea (height/period) Wind (dir/spd)
18Z Tue 01/18 2.6 ft 2.5 ft @ 10.2 secs - 207 degs 6.9 ft @ 7 secs NW 19 kts
00Z Wed 01/19 2.8 ft 2.9 ft @ 9.6 secs - 181 degs 6.8 ft @ 7 secs NW

Jimbo · Post by **Jimbo** » Tue Jan 18, 2011 9:12 pm

Im gonna check seal ss tomorrow around 8 if you have my number and are up for it hit me and I will give you the report

stevea · Post by **stevea** » Tue Jan 18, 2011 10:00 pm

Hey Doc now i know your a C I A plant what code is that, what does it mean Are there waves to be surfed and are you surfing them ?
Been pretty dismal here in Oz until last week slipped into a few at the old stomping ground NN a lot less crowded than Bali ,still cant wait to get back to Indo and hopefully head up your way and im not telling anyone where that is

feralmick · Post by **feralmick** » Wed Jan 19, 2011 1:23 pm

http://www.coastalwatch.com/news/articl ... 0&cateId=3&
A few pics of Australia`s east coast last Sunday.
Noosa in particular was epic.

southpeakbrad · Post by **southpeakbrad** » Sat Jan 22, 2011 9:11 am

Nice run of surf in SD last week, continuing this weekend into next week!

Check this cool pic (#10) from last Thursday. This kneerider's golden

:

http://www.surfshot.com/Surf%20Sessions ... ml#1336308

Scott · Post by **Scott** » Sat Jan 22, 2011 9:00 pm

The swell was really up in the Santa Cruz area and northern environs the last two days. I shared a nice warm up session Thursday, before the swell jacked, with Barry Baker and Phil Curtis at my favorite NorCal reef.

This morning I returned with Phil and a strong local crew to the same spot and to a much more challenging situation: 10-15 feet with some bigger sets. Some of the largest surf of my life, and my first time out on a 6’ 6” Shoelkoph loaner from Barry. Two macking clean up sets that rolled through the lineup (no one escaped) will be something I’ll remember for a long time—we all saw it coming pretty far out and were paddling for the horizon, but everyone ended up just pushing aside their boards in front of a mountain of whitewater and diving as far down as possible. Way, way down and listening to how deep was the roar. I took EQs advice this fall and did the annual leash replacement on my “serious boards”, and it was nice not to have mine snap in this critical situation and face a long swim in through the rip.

Best memory, though, was watching Phil (of Maverick’s fame) aggressively paddle his 6’ 10 pintail into the largest wave I saw ridden by anyone that morning; an easy 15’ face. He took off about 50’ deeper than where everyone else was sitting, had to paddle hard over a rising ledge to get into the wave, just streaked down the face as the whole wave jacked up over him, then couldn’t quite get around the white water section at the end of a fast wall (I was trying to catch the corner of the wave at that point and couldn’t quite get into it, but got to watch the whole thing. I got a few nice waves myself to feel out the board (needs bigger fins on a day like this!), but nothing that matched the size of Phil’s wave. I ended my session a bit early to try to get a photo or two of Phil, who continued to sit way outside and deep. The ocean went pretty silent, however, as I sat there on the bluff with camera in hand. Eventually Phil had to paddle inside and take something more “normal” (I just posted a sequence shot in the photo section).

Phil is getting in all the good surf he can before leaving in about a week to Africa to serve in the Peace Corp for the next two years. He’ll be missed in the lineup but he’s got great priorities in his life. I’ll try to learn from that, and also from the “no doubt” way that he paddles for large waves—nothing tentative at all, and that’s why he excels in an ageless fashion…

alfredo zavala · Post by **alfredo zavala** » Sun Jan 23, 2011 12:51 pm

Took a drive down to Rincon yesterday. Just absolutely beautiful and awesome!The best day of surf I've had in a long while. The best part was that for the most part the crowd was mellow and I chatted with quite a few people out in the water. It seems like my kneeboard was a bit of a novelty for some. Especially all the little groms in the inside! I need to do this more! The most interesting part of the day was when I almost took off on Tom Curren whom I thought was not going to make the section. . . I started to paddle looked way down to my surprise at Mr. Rincon himself! I didn't take off . . . he made all the sections! The nerve. . .

Eric Carson · Post by **Eric Carson** » Sun Jan 23, 2011 7:31 pm

Scott, brilliant reporting, I went "Todash" while reading it.
As for Central Florida, air and water in the low 60's with onshore winds, chest to head high. Off tomorrow and surfing Satellite Beach-chop city.

Scott · Post by **Scott** » Sun Jan 23, 2011 8:03 pm

Sadly coincidental that just about the same time the massive set closed out our surf spot about 30 miles north a huge clean up set nearly took the life of a Mavs surfer (he's in a coma now with unspecified brain injuries).

Scott · Post by **Scott** » Sun Jan 23, 2011 8:15 pm

Unidentified kneelo got a good one at Ocean Beach today:

http://norcalsurfphotos.smugmug.com/Sur ... mLU5R-A-LB

sf_firestarter · Post by **sf_firestarter** » Mon Jan 24, 2011 12:00 pm

good and big at OB. How big you ask? My 6' leash is now 7.5'!

alfredo zavala · Post by **alfredo zavala** » Mon Jan 24, 2011 12:49 pm

I want to add a comment from Scotts weekend foray with Mr. Curtis. Just to say though I've never met Mr. Curtis I need to say that I"m always inspired by someone who will give up all the comforts of home to help those less fortunate. Way to charge the surf and life Mr. Curtis! I hope you'll be in coastal Africa and still get some waves!
There are some some inspiring kneelos in this tribe!

Scott · Post by **Scott** » Mon Jan 24, 2011 8:17 pm

Way to charge the surf and life Mr. Curtis! I hope you'll be in coastal Africa and still get some waves!

Actually, Phil will be in Zambia (if I recall correctly), but he definitely said he will be in the interior of Africa and completely landlocked for two years.

Great priorities...

Bud · Post by **Bud** » Sun Feb 13, 2011 6:27 pm

Been pumping and perfect nearly everyday for 2 months straight now!
All spots seeing epic days.
Many mid day, mid week sessions with just 1 or 2 guys out at Back Yards.
At the moment and for the next couple days, the winds are light SE and there's a wild NE swell running around 6-10' Hawaiian scale. Should settle down a bit during the week.
Sunset has about 20 people spread across the whole break at 3:30pm Sunday Feb. 13, 11. That is not a crowd.
Its pumping and glassy.

Ehukai Beach has great sand bank set ups now.
A few days ago it was postcard perfect 3-6' crystal blue sand dredgers.
This morning it resembled 6-8' Puerto Escondido rights mostly. Very few takers, the brutal paddle out being the limiting factor.
Hoping it turns into "Kirra" type waves as the swell drops.

North swell spots are the go.
Sunset, Ehukai, Log Cabins, Laniakea.
Pipe will be ruined for the Bodyboard pro comp being run next week as the sand is being spread back over the reef there.
Maybe there will be good ones at Back Door.

Surfed with just 2 guys this morning for 3 hours, both kneeboard surfers. Lee Pattison and Kei Fujioka from Japan.

Kneeboard Surfing USA Community Forum

Surf Report 2011

flat out here. one of the flattest wet season every......

surf report 2011