Surf Report 2011
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- Ripper (more than 100 posts)
- Posts: 145
- Joined: Sun Aug 19, 2007 12:46 am
- Location: Santa Barbara, CA
Just had the best session this season. Hidden point break in goleta, SOLID 4-5' surf and started with 2 of us out. Cannot believe how insanely gorgeous and hollow the points can get here IF its a solid west swell, and this angle is sick.
Barrel sections, long shoulders with steep pockets, made so many turns that the top of my left foot is bleeding pretty bad.. I've got a massive bunion? or something that's been forming for the past few years from surfing so much. My right foot isn't as bad, i surf 90% rights so I push harder on my top turns with my left foot I think.
Anyone have any tips for this? Its above the 'big' toe and right on the tendon that runs up your foot, feels like a ton of scar tissue and opens into a bleeding/sore after surfs..
Barrel sections, long shoulders with steep pockets, made so many turns that the top of my left foot is bleeding pretty bad.. I've got a massive bunion? or something that's been forming for the past few years from surfing so much. My right foot isn't as bad, i surf 90% rights so I push harder on my top turns with my left foot I think.
Anyone have any tips for this? Its above the 'big' toe and right on the tendon that runs up your foot, feels like a ton of scar tissue and opens into a bleeding/sore after surfs..
- southpeakbrad
- Legend (Contribution King!)
- Posts: 872
- Joined: Fri Nov 28, 2003 3:42 pm
- Location: San Diego
- barry
- Legend (Contribution King!)
- Posts: 405
- Joined: Mon Sep 22, 2003 12:37 pm
- Location: Hopefully the Tube
foot
Masons....
Hope you are wearing booties also could try getting round toe booties (somewhat larger than you would normally wear) then wear soft finsock type booty underneath for extra cushion for your foot. also will keep your feet super toasty
Hope you are wearing booties also could try getting round toe booties (somewhat larger than you would normally wear) then wear soft finsock type booty underneath for extra cushion for your foot. also will keep your feet super toasty
- Scott
- Legend (Contribution King!)
- Posts: 1244
- Joined: Mon Mar 10, 2003 5:36 pm
- Location: San Jose, CA
Pam and I did the Mendacino Pilgrimage to see Don and Bonnie Harris this weekend. Lovely conditions after the rain quickly vacated. SPECTACULAR fall colors, plus a nice sunny and even glassy (an almost unheard of word around those windy confines) morning surf at a local beachbreak, 4 - 6' and very fun. Warmest water I've ever surfed up there--actually pushing 53 degrees, which was a such a delight (I actually took my hood off a few times!). And even the sun was shining actually heating up my wetsuit.
I wish I hadn't left my camera back at Don's house.
BTW, Don's garage is a like a wonderland of amazing kneeboards, including a full slate of Parkes, some Flashpoints (including a board each from Simon and from Matt Gallagher), a Blast, Freeline and more... I selected a Parkes carbon fiber for my session that was a great board, even though I have much to learn about how to utilize all that potential.
Super weekend trip!
I wish I hadn't left my camera back at Don's house.
BTW, Don's garage is a like a wonderland of amazing kneeboards, including a full slate of Parkes, some Flashpoints (including a board each from Simon and from Matt Gallagher), a Blast, Freeline and more... I selected a Parkes carbon fiber for my session that was a great board, even though I have much to learn about how to utilize all that potential.
Super weekend trip!
I'm not influenced by the past; I change it!
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- Ripper (more than 100 posts)
- Posts: 145
- Joined: Sun Aug 19, 2007 12:46 am
- Location: Santa Barbara, CA
Thanks for the advice Barry, the problem I have is I CANT find larger booties around here anyways lol.
I'm a size 13 and fin socks+ booties have been really uncomfortable in the past.. But I'm gonna hunt online to see if I can find a setup that looks good.
Or I guess I could buy some pads...
Nah..
And let me know when we can hook up for a sesh at Rincon or T's or the Princess, wherever.. I've got a lot of free time and surf everyday, if there's waves.
I'm a size 13 and fin socks+ booties have been really uncomfortable in the past.. But I'm gonna hunt online to see if I can find a setup that looks good.
Or I guess I could buy some pads...
Nah..
And let me know when we can hook up for a sesh at Rincon or T's or the Princess, wherever.. I've got a lot of free time and surf everyday, if there's waves.
- barry
- Legend (Contribution King!)
- Posts: 405
- Joined: Mon Sep 22, 2003 12:37 pm
- Location: Hopefully the Tube
booty
Masons
try a dive shop....or online. I have some oneil firewall 5mil round toes they zip up the side. they have great rubber on top of foot for long life and the sole provides great protection for all the rock walking and jumping off into the surf
try a dive shop....or online. I have some oneil firewall 5mil round toes they zip up the side. they have great rubber on top of foot for long life and the sole provides great protection for all the rock walking and jumping off into the surf
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- Local (More than 25 post)
- Posts: 66
- Joined: Thu Jul 22, 2010 12:11 pm
I Drove to Santa Barbara to Surf My Favorite Place IN Calif On Tuesday and It Was 1 Foot ,Wetsand Was Listing @ 4 To 6 Foot .I Was Bumed Out .There Where Lot Of Guys There Thinking The same Thing.SB is Beautiful Place ,Well It Was A Nice Drive Any How,There Was Two Guys On The BodyBoard Having Fun I Almost Whent Out ,But Drove Home To Surf 3 To 5 Foot Oceanside . I Made Back Home 12:30 Not Bad Of Drive.Next Time .
- Casey Patelski
- Ripper (more than 100 posts)
- Posts: 209
- Joined: Wed Nov 14, 2007 9:04 pm
- Location: Costa Mesa, Ca
HB Report 11/29 thru 12/1 2011
HB Pier S Side, Contest Area 11/29-30, 4-7 ft walled peaks, some makable, some sets had 6 -10 waves, very crowded. Water 60-62, Good to feel some size finally.
Thrusday 12/1: HB State Beach, Magnolia Tower 6, AM till 9am, Offshore 4-5 ft bowling, firing, grinding peaky, deep barrels, low crowd, Super Fun. Then the wind changed :( at 9am.
Thrusday 12/1: HB State Beach, Magnolia Tower 6, AM till 9am, Offshore 4-5 ft bowling, firing, grinding peaky, deep barrels, low crowd, Super Fun. Then the wind changed :( at 9am.
COVE PADS,KneeloLab 6-0PoisonDart DeanCleary 3x Cncav Roundtail 5Fin, 6-0 PoisonDart Infinity 3x Cncav Pintail 3 Fin, Blast 5-9StubVector Swallow Quad, 5-9Vartanian Poison Dart 3x Cncav PinTail 3fin, 6-0Flashpoint DoubleBump Swallow & 5-10 WingPin 3fins.
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- Legend (Contribution King!)
- Posts: 388
- Joined: Mon Mar 10, 2003 12:17 pm
- Location: Cosat Mesa-CA
- Scott
- Legend (Contribution King!)
- Posts: 1244
- Joined: Mon Mar 10, 2003 5:36 pm
- Location: San Jose, CA
No report yet--just the anticipation of a report! I fly out tomorrow to Miami for a work-related conference. Of course, I'll stay at my brother MOW's home there. With his bone marrow transplant a success over this last year, he's just recently been cleared by his doctor to get back into the water! And right on cue there's a head-high swell scheduled for early next week when I'll have a day or two of opportunity. What a praise that he will be paddling out again and I get to be with him! I think we'll also be hooking up with Eric Carson; my first time meeting him. First time for me surfing in Florida.
All very exciting...
All very exciting...
I'm not influenced by the past; I change it!