Want to try and go finless (again)... advice please.

[TimM]

This goes out to the guys who don't use flippers (fins) and those who have changed to surfing without fins.. I don't want to start a "which is better fins or no fins" thread as there are quite a few of those already..

Basically I want to try and go finless. I went finless for a couple of months a year ago after I injured my foot and was doing ok but got my arse handed to me one day when it was much bigger and lost my confidence a bit and have worn my fins since then again. A week or so back I was doing a surf-check and came accross some amazing waves but I couldn't paddle out as the jump-off from the rocks was waaay to sketchy with fins on, it was spring high tide and I couldn't scurry down the rocks quick enough to be able to jump safely with my fins on.. was pretty bummed.

So I want to try to go finless once again.. I have a few concerns though...

I only use my fins when I paddle for waves and duck-diving, I never use them when paddling out so I am a fairly strong arm paddler. However I did find that I had a lot less power when paddling for a wave and was missing a lot of waves. Stand-up surfers shortboards generally have much less volume than a kneeboard so there is no real reason other than technique that I shouldn't be able to catch waves as easily as them without fins on. Can someone advise me if my position on my board should be way different or is there something else I should be looking at changing while trying to catch waves?

I also feel quite powerless while duck-diving as I use my fins to propell myself through quite a lot.

Is there any difference in the board design is another question? My boards are generally around 6'0" and 22 1/2 , would a bigger board help me or is that just overkill? I'm happy with the way my boards ride so I don't really want to change that if possible but am open to suggestions..

Is it just a matter of sticking it out over a long period of time and eventually I will feel at home without fins? Is it a cop-out to wear them very now and then if I feel that the conditions warrant them? It's pretty tough to try and change after 25 years of wearing them..

Looking for someone to school me on going finless.. don't hold back!

[eqKneelo]

I made the switch about two years ago... it's quite a learning process, but the freedom of surfing fin-free is so worth it.

My biggest realization came from watching Gavin surf the 2008 KSUSA titles. He was literally taking off on waves in a completely different place than anyone else... deeper, and farther inside than everyone in the water. (And was going a hell of a lot faster because of it... it's the cornerstone of his surfing.)

I think when you grow up with fins, you have the 'muscle' to just turn and catch a wave by paddling (similar to longboards)... without fins, you gotta really be aware of what the wave is doing and paddle toward the most critical point of the wave. (Similar to shortboards.)

And like shortboards, you gotta get your chest as far forward as possible. Instead of kicking over the ledge, you gotta pull yourself over.

There will be a lot of missed waves/donuts for your trouble... it takes some time. (and tears. ) And I ALWAYS have a pair of shorties with me... if the Currents or Crowds are too much, I'll bust 'em out. (But it takes a couple waves to get used to them again.)

Also, you may need to re-examine your boards.
I have been going through that process myself... getting more volume and length. I've found boards feel smaller once I learned to really use my feet to drive into the tail and my instep to control turns or correct lines. (Check photos of Sparrow, Chayne, Albert, Karl... see how the use their feet.)
The extra volume is so fun and fast... but it has to be foiled correctly.
Talk to your shaper about 'entry rocker' to help with wave catching.

Best of luck... have fun and don't look at it as anything but another adventure.
EQ

[albert]

Whatever you do, dont EVER think that you can transition in any less than 3-6 months of surfing nearly every day. Thats the first mistake people make, thinking they can reinvent and remaster the way they approach 90% of their surfing in a few surfs. After wearing fins for over 10 years it took me a good 4 months of surfing every day multiple times a day to get a handle on the whole situation.

The firs few times I went finless I got my ass handed to me, a couple of solid days where it took me half an hour to get out the back (when with flippers it would have been a five minute jaunt).

[eqKneelo]

Whatever you do, dont EVER think that you can transition in any less than 3-6 months of surfing nearly every day. Thats the first mistake people make, thinking they can reinvent and remaster the way they approach 90% of their surfing in a few surfs. After wearing fins for over 10 years it took me a good 4 months of surfing every day multiple times a day to get a handle on the whole situation.

The firs few times I went finless I got my ass handed to me, a couple of solid days where it took me half an hour to get out the back (when with flippers it would have been a five minute jaunt).

So true, Albert. I figure it took me close to 100 surfs to finally feel comfortable.

[Masons]

I made the same transition about 3 years ago after growing up riding with fins in heavy shorebreak like 15th st and wedge. Bodysurfing built the instinct that if I was in the ocean, then I had fins on..

It took awhile but a lot of my surfing improved, and I want to point out one specific area that will greatly help your transition.

Duck diving..

With no fins you can really use your knee and feet better to do more technical and superior duck dives, I used to "cheat" and kick myself through with fins on.

Improving this technique to expert level saved me a TON of energy without the fins on and helped me get a lot more waves without the fins. It's a different style without fins on and focus on using more knee/leg to get the board deep and push it up through the back.

Going finless has improved my surfing so much, especially on the right point breaks in SB. You can run out further onto the shoulder to throw massive roundhouses, more speed for hits, can use your feet to grab the rails, take off deeper and smoother against the rail/wave. Love it.

[budgie]

Sometimes I have noticed that I am actually up on my toes and other times the feet or toes are grabbing the rail to hold you on the board in a difficult situation.

Gave up flippers about 30 year ago so actually cant remember the flipper feeling just know I lost many Left foot and got sick of replacing flippers.

Then I was aware because of my short boards the flipper was hanging over the tail and causing huge drag and tail shape changes.

Good luck

[Scott]

Enlightening thread. Appreciate EQ and 'Bert explaining how many months it took to get it down. I always thought it was something that should meet with success right away if you're cut out for it.

I've experimented a few times going without fins and was only impressed with how many fewer waves I caught and how much later I was dropping in. Glad to know I could possibly get the hang of it if I gave it a lot more time. But don't know if that's gonna happen when I can only surf once every week or so...

[TimM]

Thanks for the response guys, Scott's right it is very informative..

I'm know at first the temptation to go back to fins will be very strong, especially when the line-up is petty busy.. It does suck to miss waves but I guess I must keep my focus on the long-term benefits which are great.

I'm going to surf my longer board that I took to Indo for a while, it's a 6'2" and is not really suited to the waves here at the moment but will hopefully help me build some confidence and get into waves a little easier until I get the technique down..

Another question is do the guys who don't wear fins wear booties all the time? I know if you surf regularly the top of your foot must get pretty raw if you don't have a full deck pad..

[Masons]

It took me about 1 month of surfing to build up the arm strength, lots of long days getting worked by the current at Rincon though.. That will turn your arms into noodles..

I ride 5'10"-6'0" boards, im 6'3" and about 190. Pretty good shape from jiu jitsu and lots of surfing when theres waves.

I ALWAYS wear booties for two main reasons.

1) everywhere I surf there's rocks, rocks and more rocks. some nasty sharp rock reef spots as well

2) without them it kills your feet, especially once you really start pushing the board and driving with your feet

Also, even with booties I'm building a large bump on the knuckle behind my big toe. Especially my right foot, must be cuz I always go right here and I'm pressing hard into the bottom turns.

BTW - I don't use any pads.. and have NO problems with traction or knee injury. Love the connection and doubt I'll ever change to pads.