See and exert from a tracks online article/interview with Gerry Lopez.
What John John Florence and Jamie O’Brien and the like do at not only Backdoor, but Pipe too, must make you proud to be Hawaiian?
The way these guys have been able to make the backside take off more effective than a lot of the frontsiders (at Pipeline) – grab the rail, almost not even stand up, and be able to take that drop almost like a kneeboarder, or even a boogie boarder – you know there was one point there at The Pipeline where the boogie boarders were really starting to rule the place because they could take on the wave much later, they didn’t have to stand up. Being able to take the wave so late – like I said – that critical moment on a surfboard is so heavy, if you don’t connect with that moment on a surfboard you gotta let that wave go! Sometimes it’s already too late and the waves already got you! It’s no use putting on the breaks you’re still going to go over.
pipe legend - kneelo reference
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