Posted: Fri Jul 11, 2014 10:59 am
Yeah 4 mile! scored that mon tues-best wipe out of the summer as well!
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Surf Report 2014
Page 5 of 5
Posted: Sat Jul 12, 2014 7:53 pm
Yeah, a very fun swell after weeks and weeks of near flatness. Glad 4 Mile was great, Randy. I was out Tuesday evening a few miles north at the Waddell reefs and had a great time. Had my own peak to myself...
Posted: Wed Jul 30, 2014 8:58 am
Just back from a long weekend in Sea Girt NJ (where I first knee'd an inflatable surf mat around '58 or '59). Two fun surf sessions in a chest high swell and offshores. Sand was plentiful due to Hurricane Sandy beach "renourishment", and the swell was a steep peaky southie, that lined up on the jetties for some long rights. Water was a bit nippy in a shortie - 62F.
Posted: Thu Jul 31, 2014 5:13 pm
Humboldt checking in
Surfed Freshwater waves were 3-5 feet on the face
wedging bowls
peace and good waves
Surfed Freshwater waves were 3-5 feet on the face
wedging bowls
peace and good waves
Posted: Fri Aug 29, 2014 9:37 pm
Scored with Hurricane Marie on Big Wednesday.
15ft right point break in San Pedro, but my leash broke and my Blast got thrashed on the rocks. Took me 20 minutes to swim in. We can rebuild it, we have the technology,
...
Also scored Long Beach at 6ft, normally it's 6 inches, could be years before it's six foot again. Cops had the peninsula shut down.
Thursday got Malibu 6-8ft with a friend. Had six waves to myself, pretty epic.
15ft right point break in San Pedro, but my leash broke and my Blast got thrashed on the rocks. Took me 20 minutes to swim in. We can rebuild it, we have the technology,
...Also scored Long Beach at 6ft, normally it's 6 inches, could be years before it's six foot again. Cops had the peninsula shut down.
Thursday got Malibu 6-8ft with a friend. Had six waves to myself, pretty epic.
Posted: Mon Sep 01, 2014 1:28 am
looks like both sides of the pacific have been going off!
northern nsw/southern queensland has been getting the best of it. any reports womble or analb? they're probably still stuck inside a barrel.
it's been too messy in sydney, with winds ripping things apart for the past week until today. i only made a couple today and was poleaxed time and after time...cut to the head, ripped wetty, six inch gash on my shoulder from a fin chop by my own board.
there were a few professional photographers around...maybe the redbull event or people coming back from chopes. i spoke to one photograhper who was at the newport wedge yesterday. he said it was heaving!
northern nsw/southern queensland has been getting the best of it. any reports womble or analb? they're probably still stuck inside a barrel.
it's been too messy in sydney, with winds ripping things apart for the past week until today. i only made a couple today and was poleaxed time and after time...cut to the head, ripped wetty, six inch gash on my shoulder from a fin chop by my own board.
there were a few professional photographers around...maybe the redbull event or people coming back from chopes. i spoke to one photograhper who was at the newport wedge yesterday. he said it was heaving!
Posted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 7:51 pm
All time memories, Mike!
Posted: Sat Sep 06, 2014 6:43 pm
Times, they are a'changing (Good!)
It's been mostly utility surfs, including an early-season surf with Jamie on Labor Day
Yesterday was another of the same, although that SW started showing (which meant some long-period mogul-runs through the OBSF chop, and a strong-running Northbound rip)
Today, good fortune and good karma meeting up with Scott North of SC. FUN well OH reef waves with all sorts of groomed options. Scott nailed the call. Despite a lot of takers, it was all
On the way back, it seemed everything was working. Lots of folks will sleep well tonight.
Tomorrow, one more time!
It's been mostly utility surfs, including an early-season surf with Jamie on Labor Day
Yesterday was another of the same, although that SW started showing (which meant some long-period mogul-runs through the OBSF chop, and a strong-running Northbound rip)
Today, good fortune and good karma meeting up with Scott North of SC. FUN well OH reef waves with all sorts of groomed options. Scott nailed the call. Despite a lot of takers, it was all
On the way back, it seemed everything was working. Lots of folks will sleep well tonight.
Tomorrow, one more time!
post
Posted: Sat Sep 06, 2014 6:55 pm
Classic south swell!Good over here as well.The reefs were groomed..well OH.Broke all day from med low thru the top and half way down.
Posted: Sat Sep 06, 2014 7:29 pm
Yes, Bob, it was so fun to finally see a solid South Swell get through up here, 4'/18 seconds has a lot of energy and it was really a pleasure. The biggest wave I took off on, solid 8' wall, was an obvious closeout--I just wanted the thrill of dropping in late on something decent size. Felt so good...but there were many other waves we both got spinning far down the reef, weaving through the scrambling crowd.
A stand up surfer paddled up to me later and said, "hey is that a Blast kneeboard? Do you know Bill Lerner?" "No to both questions", I replied...
A stand up surfer paddled up to me later and said, "hey is that a Blast kneeboard? Do you know Bill Lerner?" "No to both questions", I replied...
Posted: Sun Sep 07, 2014 3:56 pm
Don, Jamie and I hit it early South of HMB. Besides whales just offshore and surfing/leaping dolphins, the most notorious resident was not to be seen
Once again fun surf but not quite as big. The crowd was chill and it just an all-around nice time
That photo of Jack tells me good times there too
Once again fun surf but not quite as big. The crowd was chill and it just an all-around nice time
That photo of Jack tells me good times there too
Posted: Sun Sep 07, 2014 4:02 pm
Oh. Given there were three of us, one guy said 'do you know x,y and Darrel Akuna?'
Heck yeah! How ya doin?
Also saw a 4th kneeboarder while getting out
Heck yeah! How ya doin?
Also saw a 4th kneeboarder while getting out
Posted: Tue Sep 09, 2014 5:07 pm
heard about the 3 kneelos on Sunday enjoying the South somewhere above SC from a stand up budy who was out and said only the kneelos were really able to make the speed runs! 