Protecting Your Board

[Scott]

I surfed at dawn today at a favorite NorCal reef that picks up a lot of NW swell energy. It was pretty sizable at 13', 13 seconds, and just a few of us out. I paddled out on my Blast 6'3" roundtail gun, caught two warm up waves and then sat outside with one other guy. Eventually, a sneaker set reared up. I was sitting right on the main bowl and paddled hard, just getting over the first three as they closed out across the reef there. But the 4th and final wave broke just in front of me and I pitched my board and dove down. Lonnngggggg, powerful pull on my leash, and I thought it was going to snap (making for a really long swim through spooky waters), but it ultimately held and I got my board, but only to find it had been creased laterally about 18 inches down from the front tip. Blast boards are glassed pretty strong and getting one creased or broken is rare.

I took it immediately to my ding repair guy and, after scheduling his services, asked him if there is any proper bailing technique to best preserve a board from getting busted in the maelstrom. He had a suggestion, but I thought I might ask that same question in the forum for your input.

[Lefty]

13' at 13 seconds...f@#& a duck!!!!! and you only received a crease?

well, if you can't duck dive the bastard, then i guess the only way to save your board is to undo the leash, push the little fellow towards the shore and hope it gets out of the impact zone.
you might still have your board. but you probably won't need it. you'll never he able to show your face again and will have to take up golf.

[joe]

I've heard mentioned on the ASP contests that you should bail with your board parallel to the wave to reduce the chances of breakage.

[eqKneelo]

You are right, Joe. Especially with our boards being so wide, you don't want to give the lip the surface area.

The Creediler once got caught inside on a big scary day at OBSF. He dove to the bottom as a mountain of Whitewater was bearing down on him. He made it under, but much to his chagrin when he surfaced the nose of his board was gone. He had served it up to the wave to break it by leaving it tomb stoning with nowhere to go.

Sorry about your board, but now you can order a new one.

[day]

Sorry to hear about your board Scott. But you got the priority right. Save your body first, then the board. I have seen pros ditch their boards too when faced with a large detonating monster wave right in front of them.

I personally dread that feeling of stroking out to escape the clean up sets, barely making it over the first couple and using up all your oxygen only to have the last one catch you when you are already winded.

If you going out on really big day with your gun, try using a longer and thicker cord. More snap resistant and more time for the wave energy to dissipate before your board starts to feel the drag of your diving body.
If the lip is going to guillotine you and your board, what I try to do is shoot my board away from the falling lip before I make my dive for the deep.

[Scott]

Good suggestions, as I figured this thread would generate a few of those. Since the crease is in the front third of the board, I'm having it professionally repaired and will continue to surf it. The same sort of crease happened to me on a virtually identical board I keep stored on Oahu for my NS pilgrimages, and it's surfed very well years after the repair. Still a bullet...

[Joel5150Photo]

greetings joel5150here,411;theres a macking swell due tue high surf advisory from origon tomexico.if you jump on it you can order a surf leash from Stay-covered of oceanside ca,1027 s cleveland oceanside ca 92054,(760)721-6599. takl to mark or jamie,there super cool and can hook you up ..they have a leash i call "the judge" its a custom hand tied (no glued joints to fail) custom made in oside to lenths of 15 ft. its 3/8 thick black urathaine matterial, verry tough but crazy strong, stay covered is the co. J mac. goes too for his surf leashes and he rides 100 ft. waves,!!! S.C.alsomake board covers,coffins,custom or standard sizes,

[Scott]

Thanks, Joel. I found their site and read up on their XXL surf leash designed specifically for big surf. Probably worth the $40 to avoid the long swims, board banging up on rocks, etc. http://www.staycovered.com/product/LEAS ... wave-leash

[JohnS]

I swear by DaKine leashes. I like the Kainui model in 8' x 5/16". They also sell them in 9', 10' & 12' too. Available at Freeline

[norm]

Scott,

That is a really good beer drinking topic. I might get a wave or two that totally detonates on me every season.... and I have no where to go. I'll try to fit under the lip or try to angle for a softer part of the wave, but from what you described.... there was No Place to Go! When it's that size, my mind is on self preservation, and I am just getting ready for a beating. I would have done the same thing and dive to the bottom for refuge and hope for the best. I like eq's suggestion.... it's a good excuse to get a new one.... even if you don't need a new one.

[OceanTrends17]

I feel you. I ditched on this and the larger set behind it, Christmas day, Mexico.
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[Lefty]

Thanks, Joel. I found their site and read up on their XXL surf leash designed specifically for big surf. Probably worth the $40 to avoid the long swims, board banging up on rocks, etc. http://www.staycovered.com/product/LEAS ... wave-leash

i use a longboard leash when it gets big. it's longer, its stronger. i've never seen the big wave leashes in sydney, but then again, i've never really looked for them.